ZR8ED Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Well This topic has been a culmination of thoughts over the last two years, and was summed up in a conversation I had with a fellow Z'r at my last Z club meeting in January. Basics: Two summers ago, I blew up a VERY expensive VG30ET. less than 2500km's. After a track day on the way home, it started to make some kind of tapping noise at idle and light throttle. Spun a bearing and trashed the block, 1 piston, 1 rod, damaged the cyl head, and killed the crank. Fully balanced and bearing tolerances equal to the 3rd decimal point. VERY experienced Z builder. Reason for destruction? unknown. at that time.. Last year. new motor, fear of destroying another. Lots of thought, research within the Z community. Today: Talking with my friend this last week about his engine failure 3 years ago. 1987 300zxt with all my engine mods. Talking about his concerns with his new 734RWHP dyno'd engine. Concerns of repeating his engine failure 3 years ago....on his way home after a track day...cause...known...oil pressure drop in high G corner See where this is going? NEW fears. This year the club has Watkins Glenn race track rented. I'm Very excited. He and I both had stock oil systems (except I have a custom ducted oil cooler) He is currently gearing up to upgrade to a dry sump so he doesn 't run low oil pressure. He says the 300zxt is prone because of small oil capacity. Hi cornering G's make it worse. I found some kits online today. I figure $2500.00 worth of parts (cdn $) Too much for my blood for what I would consider a last minute upgrade. This is not a planned upgrade for me, and I'm not financially prepared for this project this year. I have not questioned him on his system yet. I'm now looking into other systems.. ie customize the pan and increase its size. some kind of resevoir to keep the system primed in a high G corner. "pre oilers" and the ol'e favorite.. "just looking for alternatives for keeping the engine oiled in a turn" I saw systems for both the l28 and VG30ET. Any ideas? What are you guys doing? Any advice?.. besides not going to the track event? I can't afford to blow another engine, and spending 2500.00 on parts alone is not going to happen either.. How would I modify or learn to modify my oil pan for high G's? Thanks Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted January 12, 2005 Share Posted January 12, 2005 Well the obvious answer is a 3Qt accusump. I run one with my race motor to protect against what you were referring to. Cost is minimal (about $350.00) with a little plumbing you'll be all set. R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted January 12, 2005 Author Share Posted January 12, 2005 WOW. Thanks for the reply. I checked out accusump.com I think this is an awsome idea. pre oiler AND adds oil/pressure under cornering.. Under $400.00 plus some hose etc... What part #'s did you use? I didn't see an adapter for the l28...though I recall we can use the same filter as a Ford v8? so the ford adapter will likely fit. Getting an adapter on my block will be near impossible unless I go remote oil filter I run a smaller oil filter for frame clearance as it is (my VG30ET). Now this is something I can research and plan for. I may even be able to install it with some help with a friend... How did it work out for you? Thanks Again for the direction.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preith Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 IMHO, a trap door oil pan on a wet sump is a must, but I'm not familiar with what's out there for the VG30's. For the L6's, the Nissan Comp pan is better than the cast aluminum one that's out there, higher oil capicity and crank scrapers. I also have an Accusump, 2 qt version which fit real good in front of the passenger seat on my S30. I really can't tell you how good it works since I've never run the car without it, just extra insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Yes definately recommend the Accusump!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texasz Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Dumb question #1 What's the difference between a wet sump and a dry sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Wet sump the pump pulls from and oil pan full of oil dry sump pulls from an oil pan that remains relatively empty and has an external oil reservoir that it supplies the engine from. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Wetsump has the traditional oil pan and pump assembly and a dry sump uses a very shallow pan (clears the rod and crank throws and that is about it) and has an external pump and tank assembly... most race cars use them. ZR8ed, My recommendation is to use a Canton Mecca Accusump (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com) and a GOOD multi-trapdoor oil pan designed for road course stuff in conjunction with your oil cooler. Get the accusump with the electronic pre-luber. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 I'm probably going to be the odd man out here, but I think that 90% of the Z's that have oil coolers on them don't need them. In fact I think most of them do more harm than good, because most people don't run a thermostat, so the oil never gets up to temp. I've run a 30 minute session in 105º temps, come in and checked tire temps then shot my oil pan with the pyrometer. Oil temp was in the 215º range IIRC. Definitely not hot enough to warrant a cooler. Turbos are the exception, but NA's don't need oil coolers in most cases (there are defintely exceptions). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Defenitely use a thermostatic switch on the cooler... I agree that depending on the vehicle and use, it may never get hot enough in the oil to warrant it. However, I had TWO zs that ran very hot (Had a mechanical gage with taps into the pan to verify.) and required coolers. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted January 13, 2005 Author Share Posted January 13, 2005 Well the oil cooler is aftermarket, but the VG30ET came with them from the factory.. a rather thick one at that.. out front of the right front wheel. I didnt' want to remove it and further reduce the oil capacity. it only holds 4 litres of oil. I'm not too concerned with oil temps, I'm more concerned with no oil pressure in a high G corner. As I modify this car, it is only going to stick better. I never had that problem with my L28 and baffled pan. BTW what does a "trap door" look like in a Z style oil pan? Is there aftermarket pans, or do I just need some serious measurements and modify my stock pan? Thanks very much for the advice. This engine is gonna survive! Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 240zJake Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 Check out the Arizona z car oil pan, thats trap door style http://www.arizonazcar.com/pan.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc's240z Posted January 16, 2005 Share Posted January 16, 2005 I used a 3Qt accusump, with electric valve and pressure regulator and it works great. My setup uses an outboard filter so the install was not a big deal. I believe that there are adapter rings that will allow you to space out the filter in the stock location about 1 inch that allows for a cooler, just plumb into the high pressure side and you will be all set. Ron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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