zcarmark Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 planing on rb26 swap for my 240z. could someone tell me if there is more than one model of rb26. If so what one do I want to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 The basic three engines you will encounter (excluding N1, etc.) are the 32, 33, and 34. The only difference that will affect performance and reliability between the 32 and 33 engines is the crank. Both are strong and capable of supporting 800+ hp but the oil pump drive on the 32 crank is shorter and the pump will end up with catastrophic failure. You can have it sleeved, though. The 34 engine has lots of different stuff and is not the engine of choice if your goal is doing anything other than keeping the engine stock. There are way more parts available for the 32 and 33 motors. When doing a new motor and not using the customers existing base, I always use a 33 engine to start. If the engine is a 32 engine, I put a new 33 crank in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 Matt, I've heard you mention sleeving the crank in other threads. Can you elaborate on that? And, obviously no machine shop in my town has ever even heard of an RB26, much less know where to get parts for one. I've heard of sleeving the crank snout on an engine to get the front seal to seal on a worn crank, so I know alittle about what you're saying. But, I know that hsa nothing to do with the oil pump on the RB. How much is a new R33 crank? And, how much are the parts to sleeve the R32 crank? And, is that something a good machinist can handle given proper directions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Jamie, This is something a good machine shop can do. They are going to have to make an extension for the oil pump drive and press it on to the snout of the crank. Then machine it so that the drive surfaces match. A new 33 crank runs about $800. I can send you the length you need if your local machine shop can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 For those who keep seeing this subject brought up, this will kinda show what we are talking about when trying to explain the difference between the RB26 crankshaft that has the "R32 early" oil drive thats to short, and the later, modified R33/34 crank that Nissan uprated to solve the oil pump drive problem. Below is the early crank, and if you look at the snout where the small flat portion is, this is the area that the oil pump engages. If you look at the second crank, you'll see how the flat portion is extended out toward the tip of the crank much more, to where now, the oil drive has more surface area to stay engaged with the oil pump drive gear that slips over/onto this flat area on the crank... EARLY CRANK IMPROVED CRANK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Great pics! Thanks. Matt, if you'd be so kind to send me the dimensions for that sleeve, that would be great. I could probably get a few made if anyone else needs that service here in the states. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Great pitorial JOEL !! I'm more and more happy I picked up a later R33 BCNR every thread ! Now If I can just find the time to enjoy it ? ................Vinny 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I'm jealous Vin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Here are a few more pics for those trying to understand what all this oil pump drive talk is about... The crank is from the first R32 motor I bought, that had been thrashed beyond belief. The oil pump shown is from the same motor. If you look closely, you can see where the flat spot is on the crank, and on the pump gear I removed from the pump, it shows that no more than 1/4" of the crank flat reaches inside of the pump gear... This is shown by the area that looks as though its been rubbed, so you can see where the crank drive flat, and the pil pump drive gear flats touch each other. It isn't very much... Also, you can see where the flat spot on the crank shows of it being kinda rounded off on the edges, This pump drive gear spun on the crank in my opinion, which is why the motor was toasted.... Moral of the story.... get the crank modded with the sleeve, or buy a R33 crank as I did, and sleep better at night... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 continued from above..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 Great pics Joel. I'm glad someone else has gone through all this before me. I'm sure it's old hat in Japan. This forum is the best on the web! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage-TechZ Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 I'm jealous Vin! Haha..Jamie,what could you POSSIBLY be jealous of ME for ? lol. It could ONLY be the later BCNR ...right ? haha......now I'm re-thinking my WHOLE life in a paranoid loser kinda' way....lol. Nice manacure "by the way" Joel.lol. My hands tend to look like mice chew on the fingers when I sleep hahaha.....wait,that could be hap.......Noooo. I did manage to get A N1 oil pump from Bernard in Japan. What a strange oil pump these are too !But a good design as far as comparing to an L-series. Whats the brand of choice everyones getting for their bearings ? ...........Vinny 8) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 Whats the brand of choice everyones getting for their bearings ? ...........Vinny I went with Nismo bearings and oil pump. I would like to have bought the Jun' date=' Tomei, or Gready oil pump, but the cost kept me in check. *** EDIT: well I went ahead and bought the Trust/ Greddy/ Jun oil pump, along with a Accusump oil reserve do-dad.... [img']http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/24_126.jpg[/img] I don't plan on revving this to 10,000 rpm, so the Nissan parts should hold up for my driving style. I plan on having a few extra ponies on tap, but I'm not going to be using it at the max very often.. I think the RB26 motor using Nissan bearings. oil and water pump, is pretty safe for a daily driver... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 Without taking an engine down to the crank, how can I tell what year my engines are? I know the one from Stony is an R32 model, but the other one I don't know. Any date coding I should look for? I won't sell it if it's an R33 model. I'll just build it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ezzie Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 Nissan FAST for the R32 shows two different part#'s for the crank in the RB26DETT. 12200-05U01 from cars built between 08/89 - 02/93 12200-05U02 for cars built from 02/93 on The R33 RB26DETT shows the 12200-05U02 as well from 01/95 to 02/97. Thes also have a supercede to the 12200-05U03 crank which is the part# of the crank in the R34 GT-R From this I think we can assume the oil pump mod is the difference between the xxx01 and xxx02 cranks. So if you know the build date of the chassis the engine came from, you can plug it into FAST and find the mfg. date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 Jamie if you are talking about my engine it is an early r32 motor with the above mentioned flaw. the only time you need to worry about it is in the higher rpm hi hp RANGE WHICH I THINK YOU ARE HEADED. I dont believe you have to tear the entire motor down to fix this and since you allready have it with the oil pan removed its just a matter of puling the front covers off, oil pump and installing the Sleeve. not 100% sure on that but thats what i think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Stony, I have another motor I bought to build, but had decided to sell it. But, If it is a R33 motor, I'm going to hang on to it. Yes, I am aware the motor I got from you is an early r32 model. And, I'm going to run it as is for the time being. I'm keeping the head off my spare engine to port and polish and put my HKS springs in it and clearance it for the cams per Matts recommendations. I almost forgot, It looks like I could make the sleeve as wide as the oil pump gear, does that make sense? I'm going to take the crank and gear to my shop and see what we can come up with. Should it be hardened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 Is there anybody in the US that could use an R33 crankshaft? I was going to use it with an RB20 block but now I am building an RB30DETT. So it is of no use to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 Please PM me with the $ you are asking for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted March 1, 2005 Share Posted March 1, 2005 Me too. Come on Joel... Don't you have enough RB26 parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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