zxgtr Posted April 25, 2005 Author Share Posted April 25, 2005 Thanks for pointing that out ZROSSA! I majorly overlooked that part of what was being said. Ive looked at a few space frames I found on google to see what your talking about and have a better idea now to what everyone is saying.. "I would drop them down to the front suspension mounts" On the inside of the framerail? I'll be (hopefully) picking up a lot of extra steel this week and will mock something up soon, new pics will follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 3, 2005 Author Share Posted May 3, 2005 Heres an update, got most the mockup pipes bent to shape, just working on building the mounting brackets (really sucks). I purchased a small selection of pipes, diffrent sizes and walls and decided to use 3/4" round 16 gauge steel pipe, a 3' section weighs 1lbs (14G is 2lbs). This is still a mockup, I will build the plates and stick this all together and see how/what it does, from there I plan to make it all in aluminum. Im not sure if I will attach the front 3/4" bar to the strut tower bar, the front one will connect to the lower (square) bar (will be replaced with 1.25" 14G pipe). We have a great place in town to pickup pipe, the stuff I used cost me $20. I have so much extra steel I think I will build a 4cyl go-cart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 have you guys seen this reinforcmenet any ideas WHY as the a frame seems more 'productive'i really dont understand the tubing that goes from the tower forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 3, 2005 Author Share Posted May 3, 2005 Just seems to help keep it from twisting, not required in many opinions (as I've seen) but seems to me to make sence, instead of holding 1 side secure to prevent twisting your holding 2 sides. I didnt like the idea of welding the round tube to the car, the comments above said to make plates so I did.. After searching the archive I found a post talking about impact damange and those bars will drive right threw anything causing more damange. Any comments on mine Gotta come up with a strut mounting plate today. Planed to use a 6 or 6.25" circle and cut a 4-5" hole for the middle then just weld the cross bar to it, I know its not adjustable or easily removable but its a mockup, sadly I spent $40 for 2x5.25" steel circles yesterday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 well the classic a frame seems to do its job, as zx's are know to twist in the front area. I just dont see how 1" room ( so OEM way) between the rad is a problem in normal operating ( i can see the advantage when tooling) However i would move everyting back as far asposible, since weight infront of the strut is not good! Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 Got the core stuff welded up today, cant seem to get anything to turn out semi decent with flux core, have to turn up the heat to get a solid weld and it just burns the sh** out of it Ive been testing it by pushing on the sides and wiggling ontop of the bumper, feels a ton stiffer, when I stick the 1" cross member (not shown) in it is super stiff. frank280zx nothing is any further fwd then the stock setup (with a i/c added), it all fits in the same location but with the oem core support gone you can tilt the i/c and rad. at a good degree to free up space and (id think) give it a better chance to catch some air.. I setup a gallery for the new stuff, http://gamecp.com/photos/zxgtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted May 5, 2005 Share Posted May 5, 2005 Got the core stuff welded up today' date=' cant seem to get anything to turn out semi decent with flux core, have to turn up the heat to get a solid weld and it just burns the sh** out of it [img']http://gamecp.com/albums/zxgtr/newtop.sized.jpg[/img] Ive been testing it by pushing on the sides and wiggling ontop of the bumper, feels a ton stiffer, when I stick the 1" cross member (not shown) in it is super stiff. frank280zx nothing is any further fwd then the stock setup (with a i/c added), it all fits in the same location but with the oem core support gone you can tilt the i/c and rad. at a good degree to free up space and (id think) give it a better chance to catch some air.. I setup a gallery for the new stuff, http://gamecp.com/photos/zxgtr hahah you have to be the first to have problem with room in a s130 lol! but i like your style! modyfiyng for the hell of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 5, 2005 Author Share Posted May 5, 2005 One day that engine is going to need to be pushed fwd so I figured while I'm at it might as well clear the room for it.. Now the hard spot is how to mount the radiator, dont feel like cutting more and its still a little to close at the bottom (2-3"). Extra room is good, specially if its not really any diffrent then stock (location wize), I've freed up a ton of space, now I gotta come up with something to do with it Thanks frank, I needed a little laugh in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 6, 2005 Author Share Posted May 6, 2005 Here we go Cleaned up a little and painted with some high temp spray paint. Also got my jsk fuel rail and 460cc rx7 injectors Sucks I didnt get a o-ring rail, can I find an adapter anywhere? Id like the rail to sit a little closer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sparks280zt Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 eBay the rail and get you the pallnet o-ring type Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 6, 2005 Author Share Posted May 6, 2005 Bah I just got the sucker today, couldnt find a palnet, where are they? Picture too please. I thought the jsk ones were better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 im not the smartest person when it comes to these type of this but heres what i see. those two bars that meet the center strut bar that come from the fire wall... i think it would be better if they went to the strut tower/strut bar then just in the middle sorta of the center bar. get what i mean? i just still see how it can flex the way you have it.. i think it still looks great and prob works way better then most units companys sell for our cars. anyways it was just a thought, if im wrong or right i would like to know, to better understand this all. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 6, 2005 Author Share Posted May 6, 2005 I think the final product I will move them in about 1.25-1.5" closer to the middle, where they are now I liked because of the bends in the strut bar, wanted to be close to those plus its fairly well 'triangulated'. I am unable to flex any area of the bar with manual force, the way its bolted to the car (super stiff) in my eyes pulls it together so it has some tension on it already (good or bad?). Dunno whats the best way, I've never done any of this before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 Hate to say but its not triangulated at all! You should have joined the firewall bars to the top of the strut. The other thing to keep in mind is that the forces involved are high. The fact that you cant bend the bars unfortunatly means nothing. Think of it this way. You cant pull or push the strutt towers but you know they move with the forces involved or you wouldnt bother naking the bars. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 6, 2005 Author Share Posted May 6, 2005 I wanted to connect both to the strut plate with rod ends but ended up just welding it solid, wouldnt be hard at all to move them to the strut tower plate. I gotta come up with a better way to build these brackets then I'll give it another go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 6, 2005 Share Posted May 6, 2005 I'd say you've come a long way since the initial design you presented this group (in fact it's a lot better set-up now), but as was stated in the last few posts, joining the bar's ends together at the tower and the firewall, rather than several inches away from each tower, is a much more rigid solution that what you have shown so far. It does not appear that going directly to the tower "plate" will reduce accessability any more than what your current design has already done, but it will stiffen it even more. The points of attachment (e.g 3 point) making a triangle is what makes this simple design so strong. Once you've spread these points out (in your case you could say that you've got a 4 point geometric shape in the middle, which is then held in place with 4" of tubing on either side) weakens the concept of you desired goal. You've got 80% of it so far, so let's go the other 20% to make it "just right". Once you've done this correctly, the front should be fairly rigid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 Thanks alot blue! Waited all weekend (inlaws house, pure boredom) to check and see if anyone else responded. Your comments are great blue, very helpfull. Plan right now is to buy a bandsaw to cut the brackets a little nicer (easier and cleaner) then get some new pipe and have it bent at some local shop (hopefully the bending tools the mufler shops use can bend this 3/4" stuff).. This way everything will be perfect. The original idea was to take what I have as a mockup and have it done at a shop but after touring the local shops that do this stuff I figured all their going to do is bandsaw cut new brackets and bend the pipe in a better fassion, something I can easily do at home. Ill post images of the 'new concept' based on your guyses input, 80% sounds great to me but that extra 20% is vital. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 I commend you on your continued attempt to create a brace which is as effective as can be (being fabricated at home). It's always nice to see someone submit a design for review, and actually listen to any comments from the members. We may not have all the answers, but 9 times out of 10, this site will provide the appropriate information to complete any job, and do it well. On some forums, this may not lead to an improved product, but these guys on this site know of what they speak of, and the respect the've gained for this is by word of mouth, which is the best kind of recommendation one can recieve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxgtr Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 We'll I picked up a Delta Shopmaster 9" bandsaw and some metal blades, sadly they wont cut 1/8" steel plate so right now its no good for bracket making but will come in handy for body work stuff.. Once I find a blade that will cut atleast 1/8" steel I can make new brackets and re-do this, I think the saws to small to really do this so it might get replaced with a bigger unit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZROSSA Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Got a grinder? Just get a thin cut of blade for it. That all I have ever used. Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.