Installing windshields?

[Guest TegRacer324]

I'm not sure if this is exactly the right forum, but I just picked up a 240z only it was someones project so he had both of the windshields out. I have the windshields my question is should I go somewhere to get these things installed or is it possible to install them myself?

[boodlefoof]

It isn't too hard to install a windshield yourself... well, if you have an assistant to help you.

 

Basically, you first want to clean up the pinch weld surface upon which the windshield will sit. Make sure it is de-rusted, holes are filled and it is painted. Water tends to collect around windows and rust is a problem. Improperly setting a windshield will create rust where water pools.

 

First, go to the local auto parts store and buy a "windshield installation kit." This includes a long roll of butyl sealer with a tape backing. Be sure to get butyl with about a 5/16'' or 3/8'' diameter. The window will mash it down a bit... so too small a diameter roll will leave the windshield too deep in the channel.

 

The kit will also include a pair of rubber blocks used to locate the windshield. First, place the rubber blocks at the base of the windshield frame and test fit your windshield to get it where you want it...

 

Then, get some 3M "pinch weld primer." Brush it on the surface after the surface is completely cleaned.

 

After that is on, make sure the window is completely clean at the edges... then begin to put the butyl roll into the window frame...

 

Start at the bottom center of the windshield frame... and work your way around. Leave the tape on it so that you don't stuff stuck into the backside of the butyl... it is very sticky. Also, if you leave the tape on you can re-test-fit the windshield again.

 

Then with your helper set the glass in. Don't let it touch the butyl until you have it where you want it. Once you set it down... it's pretty much stuck. If you have the glass a little over or up or down too much you can move it a little after the glass is lying in.

 

Once your windshield is set on... leave the car out in the sun to warm up the butyl to make it more pliable... then firmly press the window down to completely seal it.

 

For added security, you may want to add some extra sealer. Some do the following:

 

Take a plastic "bondo" spreader and cut it to about a half inch in width. Round the corners with the razor nice and clean. Using a high quality urethane sealant, put a little strip right on the side of the glass edge or on the butyl itself. Using the spreader spread it down the side of the glass over the butyl to the bottom of the pinch weld, forming a seal from the top to the bottom vertically. Do the same across the top and bottom. Be sure not to make any little nooks and crannys that water can hide in...

 

Good luck.

[jonnymrp]

speeking of installing windshields

 

i just bought a 280 Z and im going to strip the car completly and i need to know what is involved to talk out the rear windows and the windshild and the trunk glass.. help me out thx

[Guest TegRacer324]

What about the weather stripping and whatnot? Does that get glued in on top of the windshield as an extra seal?

[Globerunner513]

just found this thread and thought i'd give it a jump start again

 

i am about to do my hatch glass and windshield, and am a little weary of paying $200-$300 to get it done

 

anyways im considering doing it myself, just was wondering if anyone has some pictures to aid in the explanation? as above, im a little unsure as to where the weatherstripping plays into it all...

[Sparky]

Its really easy, and you can do it by yourself with no problems.

 

I dont have pictures from when I did mine but a close examination of the gasket, window and car should let you know just how it goes together.

 

on the early Z cars you use a rubber gasket, no sealer should be needed.

 

first, set the gasket out in the sun and let it warm up. while its warming up go to your local hardware supply store and pick up some clothesline rope. (the smaller diameter) now you can substitute and kind of cord really, but I like the clothes line because its cheap, soft, and you can get it anywhere.

 

 

once the windshield rubber has soaked up as much heat is it can, take the rubber and press it onto the windshield, gentle tap a rubber mallet around it so it seats properly. Take the clothesline and push it into the out channel of the rubber gasket. only go around one time. put the ends together in a place thats accesable, I chose to put mine on the bottom, this allows you to push down on the windshield while you seat the bottom channel first. set it back out in the sun for a minute while you prep the car. NOTE: some people swear that you must install the SS trim while the windshield is out of the car, I found that with a new gasket this was not the case, although it probably would be easier to install it now, I was worried about it popping out and damage the paint. (this was my first and only time installing a windshield.)

 

Next, prepare a solution of dishwashing soap and water, more soap that normal as you want a super slipper surface to help seat the gasket. Get it all over! dont be scared to make a mess. take the windshield with gasket and do the same thing to the channel. you could take the clothesline and soak it for a bit if you wanted to to help keep things wet and slippery.

 

now your ready to install. be sure to have your plastic windsheild installation tool at the ready. I also used a cotter pin puller (a metal hook with a blunt tip) to help pull the gasket into place this little tool has been a multipurpose life safer! grab the windshield and set it into the frame. take care to make sure that the bottom of the gasket is as close to grabing the lip on the frame as possible.

 

start pulling the cord slowly while down on the gasket, what your looking for is for the cord to pull the lip of the gasket up and over the metal lip on the frame. Your cotter pin puller would be of great assistance should the cord not set the lip into place. GO slow, be patient, be aware of every surrounding, but pay attention to the amount of lube you have, do not let it dry out...bad mojo. while you are doing this it would be wise to push both sides (inner and outer) of the gasket down into the frame while gentle pulling it to the sides, you want to make sure that the gasket is stretched evenly across the entire windshield, it will bunch up and leave you slightly short on the bottom corners if you dont watch it.

 

 

once you get the bottom set, move onto one side. its the same process, lube, pull the cord, set the lip. on the sides its very easy to grab the outer edge of the gasket and inner edge and pull it toward you (and maybe slightly down) and into the frame, the glass will stay put while you do this but the gasket will move slightly, its not a big deal so dont worry that its not going to seal. it is vital that you seal those corners properly, you do not want water to get behind the gasket and sit down in the channel.

 

 

repeat on the other side. lube, pull, set, pull stretch.

 

once the bottom and sides are set, its should become slightly more difficult to pull the cord, but, the lip will settle into place without much assistance because the windshield is now 75% set and is trying to seat itself into the top of the frame.

 

whalla!

 

its really very easy, I originally paid the glass company to come out and do it but they chickened out at the last moment offering me a bunch of BS excuses as to why they couldnt do it. They gave me a heck of a deal on the glass because of the "inconvenience" so I just said what the heck, couldnt be that hard. sure enough it wasnt. an hour later I had both the front and back glass set with no help.

 

go for it!

[mark]

One extra note to the great post above. You are inside the car pulling the rope toward you. I use one long piece of cord and start at the top center.

 

You can put the trim in place after you get the gasket and windshield in place but it is more difficult. If you tear the small rubber lip that holds the trim in place it looks like $h:)

 

Much easier to get it in there with the glass out of the car. Some of the SS trim may be dislodged while installing the glass but it can be coaxed back in to place.

 

THe keys to this are don't rush and use lots of soapy water.

[ARZ_]

^^^You dont install the stainless steel trim pieces until you are done^^^

 

I have installed more than a dozen windsheilds and rear hatch glasses. Use silicone spray lubricant AFTER you have the rubber gasket installed on the glass.

 

The best medium I have found to get the gasket inside the car is a telephone cord (the straight kind).

 

Install the bottom of the windshield into the groove work your way up eash side, go about 12 inches on each side to make sure its centering itself OK.

 

you kind want the glass to bias itself towards (looking like) the windhield is a little too low. This will help you install the top and corners. Be sure to stretch and pull the rubber enough to make sure the corners end up where they are suposed to be.

 

Use the Silicone lubricant only where the cord goes. Windex the crap out of the window inside and out once its in then you can use that same silicone lube to install the stainless trim pieces. I couldnt hurt to take a jewelers file to the edges of the stainless trim pieces to knock off the razor sharp edges this will help to not rip the gasket when installing the trim.

 

Its not that hard, but if you have to push on the glass, use your flat palm and a (very firm) slap seems to work much better than smooth pressure.

[Metallicar]

I think I posted this before;

 

http://www.route66restorations.com/1.html

 

I installed my front and rear glass by myself. I never sweat so much, in my life. It was like performing surgery, carefully pushing glass and pulling cord, trying not to put undo pressure on that vital piece of glass.

 

I found using 3/8" nylon cord worked very well, as it allowed for more space for the pinch weld. Use lot's of soap! Soak the rope overnight in soapy water.

 

Good Luck!

By the way the rear window is much harder to install than the front!

[mark]

^^^You dont install the stainless steel trim pieces until you are done^^^

 

I've done 4 or 5 over the years and I really prefer to do it with the trim in place. No corner pieces, just the top and two sides.

 

I'm glad you have a method that works for you.

[cheney119]

I just did my rear hatch window and the trim requires a tool called a cotter pin puller. It looks like a screw driver but with a 90 degree hook with a point on the end and an angle on the bend. The thing works best from right to left as well. On the windsheild I will try to install the trim with the glass, but before it goes into the frame. This thread has been very helpful.

[74_5.0L_Z]

This is a very well timed thread. My car goes into the spray booth this weekend, and I plan to install my windshield and hatch glass in the next few weeks.

 

My question is:

 

Will the weatherstrip around the windows seal if you delete the chrome trim? I am not a big fan of it and would rather delete it altogether.

[Sparky]

Yes, it will still seal, it's purely cosmetic as far as I can tell. The only problem you will have is the fact that the gasket has a shallow channel and lip to hold the trim in so that will still be visible. I suppose you could go at with an exacto and try and cut it off but that seems like sure fire way to destroy the gasket. Your best bet is to powdercoat or paint the trim flat black to match the gasket. most people wont even notice.

[Metallicar]

I never installed the stainless trim on mine. Driven daily in rain, snow, and even nice weather, never leaks. Roughly 40,000 miles now in about 2 years.

 

So far as the channel that the stainless trim sets in, it really does not look bad empty.

[cheney119]

Hate to think that the hours of torment installing the $105 worth of ss trim were unnecessary. I thought it spreads the weatherstrip and helps form the seal and it was absolutely necessary. I live in western Washington state and 70 inches of rain fall is the norm here; the lower right hand corner, where I exited the cord, sort of has a gap which I will probably seal somehow (black weatherstrip adhesive probably) if it leaks. But honestly I anticipate leaks. Additionally; I used landline telephone cord for the lip pull and it worked very well.

[cheney119]

It's better before you put the rubber in I had some trouble but I'm pretty impatient and this stuff requires a lot of it. The trick is getting the window centered; but it sucked right in.

Go Mariners!