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240mm clutch w/ 280zx plate is slipping...


Guest Loose_Screws

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Guest Loose_Screws

I have a 240mm clutch w/ a 280ZX pressure plate in my '77 and it is slipping. I was told this combo should handle any mild turbo L28 engine combination. I ran a 13.1ET this past weekend and estimate the rwhp to be around 250rwhp. Should this clutch combo be able to handle 250rwhp?

 

AOL AIM - rboyd1877

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Guest Loose_Screws
Did you break it in properly?

 

I didn't break my stock clutch in' date=' and it failed within 300 miles of 7-10 psi boost.[/quote']

 

Yep, proper break in was done.

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What kind of clutch did you use?

The stock 240mm clutch slipped on me running 10psi on my third run at the 1/4. Rpm drop from 2nd at 5800rpm to 3rd it dropped to 3k struggled and then started pulling. No powershifting, just shifting fast. Of course, I went for run #4 and third gear slipped so bad that I just got off the gas and cruised through the traps in order to save enough clutch to get home..

Ended up replacing it with a spec stg2 clutch, diaphram style clutch with kevlar disc and heavy duty pp, didnt slip at all, but wasnt as aggressive clamp wise as i would have liked it. Didnt want to break the clutch fork.

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When the clutch heats up and then starts slipping this can also be caused by lack of free play between the pedal and master cylinder. This happened to me when I let my brother in law drive my car at a track day. He kept slipping the clutch A LOT, then finally it really started slipping on shifts bad. I had NO freeplay in the adjustment, and when the fluid expanded it caused the clutch to be just slightly depressed, which then caused it to slip, which heated it up more, which caused it to be slightly MORE depressed, which caused it to slip more, etc, etc. It was a real bummer. Almost killed our day of fun. Finally a guy who knew about Z's helped me figure it out. We fixed the adjustment and bled the clutch, and it worked perfectly for another few years till I put triples on then it was just too wussy to keep up anymore...

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Guest Loose_Screws
When the clutch heats up and then starts slipping this can also be caused by lack of free play between the pedal and master cylinder. This happened to me when I let my brother in law drive my car at a track day. He kept slipping the clutch A LOT, then finally it really started slipping on shifts bad. I had NO freeplay in the adjustment, and when the fluid expanded it caused the clutch to be just slightly depressed, which then caused it to slip, which heated it up more, which caused it to be slightly MORE depressed, which caused it to slip more, etc, etc. It was a real bummer. Almost killed our day of fun. Finally a guy who knew about Z's helped me figure it out. We fixed the adjustment and bled the clutch, and it worked perfectly for another few years till I put triples on then it was just too wussy to keep up anymore...

 

Thanks for the info Mortensen! I'll check on that and see if it could be the problem. It does seem to slip more after the car gets warmed up, but never really 'turns loose' like my first clutch did.

 

As far as hard launches, I have only done a handful.

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Same happened to me right at the staging light one night and couldn't for the life of me figure it out just sitting in the pits while going over everything. An ol' timer walked up that noticed something was wrong the last time i was at the lights and told me i should try taking some clutch fluid out of the reservoir. He explained the same thing about the fluid heating up and expanding, and then I thought about how i did have the clutch adjusted real high for a quick shift and figured i'd give it a shot. Dipped a rag in the reservoir, soaked up a little Dot3 and sure enough, he was 100% correct. Never slipped again for the next 5 runs. Hope it's something as simple as that for you LS.

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i had a 240mm oem style daiken clutch in my 77/81zxt for a long time.it slipped when i did a balls out drag race start at sacramento on a wednesday night.then it slipped on a dyno pull once and had to give up the dyno run.probably the oem style clutch or a kragens rebuild isnt up to drag racing on a turbo engine.but look at it a different way-if the clutch grabbed you would have broke the cheesy little u-joints on oem style driveshaft-i changed a u-joint for another hybridz bro that night.drag racing eventually costs money-that shock load you send down the drive line eats parts.i bought a act 240mm street clutch thats supposed to be good for 400hp .i havent checked it out yet but it shudders a little and is stiffer pedal.it will be checked on the dyno soon.

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