started my swap

[bob88]

havn't posted here very much but have been looking at forums for awhile and have read my JTR book about ten times over.

 

Last weekend I picked up my engine, its a 350 2 bolt main with a mild "RV" cam (.429/.429" lift, 288/288 adv dur) and 882 heads with some porting done and hardened valve seats. Next weekend im picking up my transmission, a world class T5 and I've had my JTR parts for a while. I know this isn't much but I am 16 with a 16 year old's paycheck. I think I've saved enough money. I have a couple of expeirienced mechanics helping me out.This week I am hoping to pull the L28 and got most of it disconnected today. Fun stuff. If you guys could tell me from experience how much I can expect out of the 350 it would be cool.

[HarrisonTX]

it will be pretty freakin quick.

The JTR raves about how fast they are, even witha mild 350

i can tell you, you will need to replace that tranny pretty soon

t-5's will blow pretty easy, unless you put in g-force parts.

 

im 19, with a 19year olds paycheck, i know the feeling.

[awd92gsx]

There are some headers on Ebay that work great for the swap that usually run about $60, that'll save you a bunch over going name brand. I haven't had any problems with mine.

 

If you're dropping it in a 280Z you can save money by using the standard direct drive starter than came with the engine (if it came with one) vs. buying a gear reduction unit. Even if you do have to buy one you can get the direct drive for cheaper.

 

That'll save you about $200 or so in the long run. Granted, the headers aren't jet hot coated, but, they work, have 1-5/8 primaries, and 3/8" flanges.

 

Here's some Chrome ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7976164410&category=33631

 

They fit very nice in my application (JTR setup). There are some other ones (marked by Hotzone performance). These will NOT work. You have to get the blockhuggers with the angled collector flange.

[bob88]

those headers say the dont work for most angle plug heads. what does that mean

[buZy]

Cool Swap!

Means you might have to dent a tube or two. I had to do just one and minor at that. No big deal really.

[280zwitha383]

I would ballpark your 350 at 300hp give or take 15hp (assuming headers and aftermarket intake). But that's just my opinion. If I were you, I would drop it in and have fun with it. You can always go big later. For a long time just getting the thing on the road is the battle. JTR suggests the same if I remember correctly. You will whip a lot of arse with "just a mild 350" in a Z. One thing to think about however might be to change out the cam later on. I'm not sure if I'm correct about this, but I've been in a vehicle with an RV cam and it wasn't very impressive seems to me that the 4X4 guys like them for lots of torgue and little hp which is the opposite of what you want right now in your Z. A 350 will give you enough torque no matter what cam you put in it (within reason) but I think you'll want a cam more suitable for higher rpm especially with a manual tranny. I would ask the owner of a good local machine shop what cam he would suggest. If I'm wrong about the RV cam someone please chime in but that's just my experience.

[bob88]

hey thanks for the link to the headers, I decided to get the coated ones though. I have a choice a taller single plane and a shorter dual plane. If I can get a new cam I definatly will get the single. The mechanics that are helping me are chevelle (3500 pounds) guys and its understandable that they said go withe the RV cam and the dual plane, but I'll call around and ask about the cam.

[fastzcars]

Hi BOB88. welcome to the board. I wouldn't even wory about soup'n up the motor just yet, Just install the motor and drive it. Even at the low end of HP, the V8 will add plenty of power for you.

[Guest scarab73]

cograts bob88!

I would have to agree w/ fastzcars, who cares if its mild, just get it in the car for now, when you get used to it or become bored, thats when you should swap cam/intake.

have fun (but not to much fun)

[wheelman]

I would guess closer to 250HP and in a light Z car it isn't really all that mild. It depends on the intake and carb you end up using.

As for single or dual plane and your cam, unless you upgrade the valve train you don't want to rev much past 5500 RPM anyway. Because of this a good dual plane (Edelbrock Preformer RPM or Air Gap) will be a more drivable combination. Good low end torque/response that will still rev into the 6000 RPM range. They will also provide better hood clearance than a raised single plane, but not much.

 

The T5 can be reliable if you don't abuse it so a G-Force kit is not required unless you are pushing in excess of 300ft/lbs of torque and/or are doing hard drag race launches and rough shifts.

 

Just a word of advice from an old geezer, get some driving experience before thinking you need huge HP in a light car like the Z. Even with "only" 250 HP it can be a handfull and get you in over your head before you know it. We don't want you or someone else to be killed because it got away from you.

 

BTW: Welcome to the board and good luck on your swap.

 

Wheelman

[280zwitha383]

Why would you say closer to 250hp wheelman? I'm not trying to argue, but a stock 350 with the 882 heads is rated at 260hp and he said that his heads are ported and he's running a bigger than stock cam. With an intake and headers I would think he could get 300hp. Like I say I'm not trying to argue I'm just curious. I would also have to say ditto on the intake, you'll do better with the dual plane especially with the setup you have now.

[bob88]

I went to the G-force website and it says they arn't making T5s anymore, propably wont need one for now but down the line I'd like it to be an option

[Here comes trouble]

get it in and running......you will be surprised how fast the next corner or a street light appears directly in front of you.

[wheelman]

Why would you say closer to 250hp wheelman? I'm not trying to argue, but a stock 350 with the 882 heads is rated at 260hp and he said that his heads are ported and he's running a bigger than stock cam. With an intake and headers I would think he could get 300hp. Like I say I'm not trying to argue I'm just curious. I would also have to say ditto on the intake, you'll do better with the dual plane especially with the setup you have now.

 

The reason I made that statement is those heads are from what I call the "Dark Years" 71 - 76 when the smog controls on the domestic cars made for some terrible performance. Compression ratios were way down and the intake/exhuast ports didn't flow well. Maybe I'm wrong but I'm guessing the CR will be down around 8:1 and it's hard to make much HP with that low of a ratio.

As for rated at 260HP thats probably gross HP meaning just the bare engine with no accessories, it probably netted somewhere around 200 so add the porting and the cam and you get around 250 like I said. I'm no expert so take it for whats it's worth but I'd be very surprised to see that engine make 300 or 350HP.

 

Like I said above though even 200HP in a light Z makes for a very quick and enjoyable car.

 

Wheelman

[bob88]

I dont know if this is how all small blocks are but the cylinders are flat exept for notches cut for the valves. The heads have a 79cc chamber, I have no idea how to calculate comp ratio

[Corzette]

Bob I did a simple calculation on your engine assuming a few things:

 

Bore 4.00

Stroke 3.48

Deck Height .030

Gasket Thickness .040

Valve Reliefs 5 ccs

Combustion Chamber 79ccs

 

I calculate 8.28 to 1 Static Compression

 

http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html

 

Also with 200 RWHP your still looking at a high 13 sec 98 MPH quarter cruiser.

 

 

 

Terry

[savageskaterkid]

hey bob88, i am too 16 yrs old, and on a 16 yr old budget.....doesn't stop me from playing with the car-like wheelman said, even 250 Hp in a Z is good, just put the stock engine in and drive it from there, it will b faster then ur used to, so it will seem like a rocket, then when u get used to it, u upgrade. This is exactly wht im doin, but diffrent, im gonna go with the RB25DET, but im gonna keep it stock, mostly.....i think i can get like 300HP at the wheels. Later on, im gonna get bored, so im thinkin about an LSD for the car, then after that, possibly a bigger turbo, and such things like that.

 

BTW, G-force did stop making T-5's, Didn't Mikelly have a problem with this?

[A. G. Olphart]

Check me on this, but I think your tall single plane manifold (besides generally falling behind a good dual plane until high RPM), may also require that a hole be cut in the hood for clearance. If 16 year olds think that's cool, cool. Us Olpharts see stuff sticking out of the hood as tacky (and cop bait).

[SmoknR6]

There are some headers on Ebay that work great for the swap that usually run about $60' date=' that'll save you a bunch over going name brand. I haven't had any problems with mine.

 

 

Here's some Chrome ones: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7976164410&category=33631

 

They fit very nice in my application (JTR setup). There are some other ones (marked by Hotzone performance). These will NOT work. You have to get the blockhuggers with the angled collector flange.[/quote']

 

I used those exact headers in my z up until i went with a turbo set up. they worked great for the time they were on the car.

[Georgia Flash]

My engine came from a 1976 Chevy Camaro. The engine build date was 7/5/74. According to a website I visited once the horsepower of that engine was rated at 145 hp with the 882 factory heads. So Wheelman was probably close on his horsepower assumptions.

 

By the way I am glad to see that others have bought the headers from ebay and they have worked for them. I too have these same headers, new in the box, and wondering about the quality. Thanks for the product review.