Tony D Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 The abomination of the space-saver spare in the S30 Chassis was a US-Only (er.. .North America) arrangement. Everywhere else on the planet, they had the 260Z style tank from mid 73 on to the time the S130 came out. You want mileage, use a 79ZX Standard Model with a 20 gallon tank, manual steering, five speed retrofit (or that diesel four speed autobox with the .67 overdrive...) and LIGHTER than the 78 280Z it replaced. And the ZX starts aerodynamically where the S30 stops after adding the G-Nose, Light Covers, Underbelly Pan, etc... The wieght difference carrys over to the 2+2's as well. If you really got into searching, you could get the 78 280ZX 2+2 Fairlady in the back yard. It's 2+2 weight is close to what a 240 weighs. My 76 Fairlady 2+2 weighed 2695# with me in it (255 at the time) when weighed with a full tank of gas at the San Antonio Dragway some time ago. I haven't had a chance to weigh the GS130 yet... Really I don't think the weight will make that much of a difference in mileage. But the tank size will dramatically affect range, and the aerodynamics do play a role, even at 70 or 80 mph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 I do have extensive pictures of the swapp. I contacted hybridZ last night to request a new forum be created the "Diesel Z Forum" that we could populate with threads pertinent to what I have done and what others will be doing. I am a bit of a newbie here so if anyone knows how to get a "Diesel Z Forum" set up I have a log of private message discussions that this project started we would like to move into the forum to popluate it, as well as thier are some existing threads, namely the one I first posted in, that should be moved into this forum. Yah, there's some LOOOOOONG messages that need atleast parts of it made available to everyone All we need is a sub forum to 'Other engines' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknomage Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 (note: I added vortex generators today on the leading edge of the hood and roof, and along rear quarter windows. They added about 4.6 MPG and have reduced fumes in the car, except when windows down. Look at the average jump from 90 day to last 3 fills since adding the VG's.) Efficiency log for: Z - 1977 Datsun 280Z 2+2 custom Lifetime Fuel Economy: 38.37 90-day Fuel Economy: 38.37 3-tank Fuel Economy: 43.06 EPA Rating (% over): 22 (74.4091%) Total fills: 29 Average cost per gallon: $1.12 Average cost per fill: $3.49 Average cost per mile: $0.03 Total gallons used: 90.6 Total miles traveled: 3476.7 Total cost: $101.47 Total saved: 67.43 gallons Total saved: $75.52 Average tank distance: 119.89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknomage Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Yah, there's some LOOOOOONG messages that need atleast parts of it made available to everyone All we need is a sub forum to 'Other engines' I am hoping we can get a Forum just like V8 Z's have I asked via the contact button for HybridZ no reply yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 The only thing I would add is the comment about adding a bicycle speedo for more 'accurate' readings. Get yourself a speedometer from Autometer, install the pulser unit from the a 240SX into your transmission, and go CALIBRATE the speedometer if you are interested in ACCURATE mileage readings. The pulser and calibrated speedometer is FAR more accurate than a bike speedo, simply because it's a known distance counting the pulses on YOUR gear setup and tire height. Any change of running gear is a 1-mile drive away from being recalibrated once again. This may be the same/similar as the 'bicycle computer' referred to in the mileage log, but this one fits in your dash like stock and keeps the cops off your butt when you find out your 110kph indicated reading was more like 139kph... Plus, you get digital odometer and 1/10ths readout as well! This reminds me of my mileage competiton days in the 70's with my VW! (52.639mpg best ever in our Ghia) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCuda Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 What are you doing about tach signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 What are you doing about tach signal? sshhhhhhhh, nobody has quite figured out an easy way to do that yet :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NavyCuda Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 sshhhhhhhh, nobody has quite figured out an easy way to do that yet :/ Oh... well it can't be that difficult to come up with something... i use the tiny tach diesel on my cummins conversion but there has to be better answers than that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknomage Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 the LD28 fuel injection pump has a coil next to the pulley to pick up RPM, it is a hall effect kind of thing where the inductors reluctance is varied by the aluminum pulley passing by with and without holes in it. I theorize that if we place magnets in the holes we can get a positive signal for the tach similar to the coil pulses it is designed for. Does any one know what kind of signal pulses the tach is designed to accept? I would like to avoid frying my tach if I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ericshere03 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 Hey Can I Reasurect this one??? I am looking into the swap, prolly start N\A LD28 with a header and good exhaust, then upgrade to turbo later when I learn more about using another pump that compensates for boost. I am looking to do what I can to manage 50mpg. I have an 83 280zx 5 speed 2 seater. I think this is the coolest thing... Had anyone wondered about revving the engine past the 4600? What about running a NA Turbo cam, the principal is the same for both, no overlap, perhaps gain a little lift. Also anyone port the intake and\or exhaust ports? I imagine a good (and easy to do) polish could help since we dont care about fuel atomization... JUST IDEAS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MX500 Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 I was too lazy to read everything, I don't know if this has already been mentioned. The diesel has a taller block height so it would be very hard to use the L28 block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 11, 2011 Share Posted March 11, 2011 We're working on an 80's 300D Mercedes OM617 5 cylinder turbo conversion for Land Rovers. The biggest issue is the front sump oil pan. A ring has been cast and machined to accept a variety of oil pan patterns. A special pickup has been cast/machined to use in a rear sump profile. These engines are plentiful (millions) in the USA. We get them at the PNP for about $200 out the door. If you add the transmission then it's about $300. I haven't thought about a Z conversion. I'd need to measure the height overall and compare it to my SC'd LD28 petrol conversion going into my 240Z. That would be more viable than the LD28 Maxima engine (or those industrial L6's found in some forklifts, etc) as they are more readily available and cheaper too. With an hp/tq rating of about 125/140 stock and room for tuning (upwards of 180/200) it would make for a good DD. The only issue is overall weight (about 560 lbs compared to about 525 for a L6/5 speed). F/R balance would be comparable since it is shorter than the L6. I'm using the LD28 block and V07 crankshaft along with a P90a head. The diesel block is 19mm taller than a normal petrol L6. It will fit (height wise) in a S30 with a stock hood. I'm lowering mine a bit to clear the PDK Fab strut bracing. To use the stock LD28 you'll need to rifle drill the block oil passage to relocate the oil pump pickup, block off a couple holes and use a petrol oil pan. Some have claimed to just lengthened the pickup tube. I suppose that could be done too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 Anyone know the rod bolt size of the LD28? I'm wondering if any of the arp rod bolt offerings for L engines will fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted March 16, 2011 Share Posted March 16, 2011 I may still have a LD28 rod in the garage to check. I'm using L20B rods in my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 If the BMW Turbodiesels were available in the USA, I'd do one of those with an Essing Power-Up Chip and loose nothing but gain mileage. I once commented that the turbodiesel in the eurogolf would make a perfect swap to most people who drive an S30. They rarely shift over 3000rpms, and when you want to wind it out in 3rd, 5400 is available and not a problem... The newer ecu controlled diesels have some fascinating possibilities for retrofits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted March 19, 2011 Share Posted March 19, 2011 Anotehr option is a merceded OM606.972 24v 3.0l I6 turbo diesel. people in europe are making over 500rwhp without cracking head gaskets. plus, its an older IDI diesel, so a little less gas mileage, but you can run it on biodeisel and if you put a turbo injection pump from an om603 on it, you can make it completely mechanical. the original om606 pump has a servo actuated rack, and a few other electric gizmos on it, but it doesnt take much to convert them. Im looking at an OM606, mated to an 88 or 89 FS5R30A with the .711 O/D (plus, the merc engine uses a 240mm clutch!) with the ever elusive 3.36 R200 all wrapped into a neat 1980 280ZX 2+2 slicktop package. I also have a complete kaminari widebody kit, but I dont think that will do jack crap for mileage. As soon as my garage-mahal is finished (24' x 42' with 9' ceilings and a workshop UPSTAIRS) Im going to get rolling on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 20, 2011 Share Posted March 20, 2011 I just picked up a performance magazine here in Thailand and there is a 10 second Evo running a 2.5L four cylinder turbocharged DIESEL... BTW, for that tach thing... Recall this is not spark ignition, so a 'spark' signal isn't used for anything. The hall effect sensor (EGR Sensor) can be reworked to give a signal to the tach, but so can three magnets glued into holes on the flywheel 120 degrees apart. Or an MPU sensing three 1/4-20 (or whatever) studs screwed into the flywheel. Run that MPU to the appropriate GM HEI module, and take the signal right off the "TACH" terminal directly. Pretty bulletproof...and you can use it to activate your EGR as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ77280 Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I thought it was cool to see someone else has a Cummins conversion on here. I use a tiny tach too. I've got a '79 f-150 with a 4bt in it. What do you have? Oh... well it can't be that difficult to come up with something... i use the tiny tach diesel on my cummins conversion but there has to be better answers than that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 4BT? I've got a 4JB1 and putting a 4BC2 into the chassis I have...no turbo as yet, but going from 2.8 to 4.3L will make the longer trips fully loaded easier! NPR Cast-Off Engines and Transmissions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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