BlackBeaut Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 What are you going to do in regards to getting a bolt up through the inner end of the transverse bar? (above the round bush mount) Yeah' date=' you noticed that eh? D'oh! I may have just shot myself in the foot there, why didn't I notice that one before?!! I have just thought though that I could maybe use a stud there, mounted in to the frame, which would sort that out completely. Otherwise I shall have to experiment - uh-oh! I generally dont like to clean up welds with a grinder, (dont want to remove too much weld/metal) you could possibly use some kind of sanding flapper disc to clean up any splatter etc. OK, sounds reasonable to me, a quick waft with the sandblaster to clean up the weird browny stuff and something a bit tougher on any nasty splatter. I hope you had the heat wound up when you were welding the tube to the solid steel parts' date=' as it would take alot more heat to get good penatration (now theres a word i like ) into the solid. You dont want them falling off! [/quote'] I was on the max setting (150A) for the whole job, it was the only setting that seemed to produce a decent arc and flattish welds. I could clearly see the metal melting on the machined parts, so fingers crossed I don't leave the rear end behind on the road somewhen Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Do you have any extra material left? You could weld 2 pieces together, stick them in a vice, then beat the crap out of it with a hammer and see if your weld fails. Cheap and easy failure analysis. Here in the US we have 110V and 220V welders, not sure what you've got over there. If you were using a 110V welder here you would have to have it cranked all the way up to do 3mm thick material. Seeing as how you'll be bolted at 4 places I think you might be able to get away with not using those inner bolts. You could oval the holes on the top part of the frame so that you can get the bolt through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 to take care of spatter use a 4 inch wound wire wheel on a 4 inch grinder, itll knock off most spatter and slag left by welding. the wound wire wheels have the wire twisted around itsellf in like ten big sections, they take alot more abuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Do you have any extra material left? You could weld 2 pieces together' date=' stick them in a vice, then beat the crap out of it with a hammer and see if your weld fails. Cheap and easy failure analysis. [/quote'] I like your style Jon I've got some test pieces I welded up before, so I could introduce them to a BFH and see what happens. Could also cut through some of the welds with my grinder and check penetration. Here in the US we have 110V and 220V welders' date=' not sure what you've got over there. If you were using a 110V welder here you would have to have it cranked all the way up to do 3mm thick material. [/quote'] Mains here is 240V, the welder is supposed to be able to deal with up to 6mm metal - hmmm. I'm not sure if this makes a difference but it's supposed to have a 20A fuse but domestic supply here is 13A so I stuck one of those in the plug and have a 30A circuit breaker inline as well. Seeing as how you'll be bolted at 4 places I think you might be able to get away with not using those inner bolts. You could oval the holes on the top part of the frame so that you can get the bolt through. Been experimenting and there's no way I can get a long enough bolt in - d'oh! I like the stud idea though, been searching a bit for a manifold type stud, M10x1.25 around 60mm long, there's not very many of those buggers around though, grrrr! I could always make my own but obviously they wouldn't be high tensile, but would be better than nothing, although as you say I can probably get away with nothing. Peej, thanks for the word on the twisted wire wheel, I've been looking for an excuse for one of those for a while Will also no doubt come in hand getting all the rubber underseal off the frame rail so the upright will mount nice and flush with the rail. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Been experimenting and there's no way I can get a long enough bolt in - d'oh! I like the stud idea though' date=' been searching a bit for a manifold type stud, M10x1.25 around 60mm long, there's not very many of those buggers around though, grrrr! I could always make my own but obviously they wouldn't be high tensile, but would be better than nothing, although as you say I can probably get away with nothing.[/quote'] Your're talking about hooking to the two original bolt locations for the stock piece? With your design one should be fine per side as you also hook into the mustache bar bolts, which are far stronger. I personally wouldn't worry about it. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 Your're talking about hooking to the two original bolt locations for the stock piece? Yep, those guys. If I can source some studs I'll use them, if not I'll live without the two inner bolts, and anyone daring enough to follow in my footsteps here can make a better job of this part Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Peej' date=' thanks for the word on the twisted wire wheel, I've been looking for an excuse for one of those for a while Will also no doubt come in hand getting all the rubber underseal off the frame rail so the upright will mount nice and flush with the rail. [/quote'] FYI: using the wire wheel on a grinder to take off undercoating might spray the undercoat EVERYWHERE. it happened to me and theres stuff all over one of my walls too. so beware. goodluck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Rob, In regard to sourcing some studs, give Wurth a try, I use to work for them here in NZ for a couple of years, they have a very large range of exhaust type studs. Clint T Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z2NV Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Can I chime in with a question regarding the mount points where the OE Moustache Bar would mount? I am FAR less than qualified to question your terrific designs; but, you used square stock on those end pieces, and the mounting bolts for the moustache bar merely fit inside them with washers on top and bottom? It seems that you might consider using slightly larger square stock on those end pieces, 'sleeved' with some tube stock welded inside them for structural support of the bolts, no? I may be all 'wet' here, and if I am try not to flame me too badly, I've gotten some terrific inspiration from your design and love all of the cad details, as well....it's really top-shelf! I really do love the clean look of the 'finished' piece..... Stan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Can I chime in with a question regarding the mount points where the OE Moustache Bar would mount? I am FAR less than qualified to question your terrific designs; but' date=' you used square stock on those end pieces, and the mounting bolts for the moustache bar merely fit inside them with washers on top and bottom? It seems that you might consider using slightly larger square stock on those end pieces, 'sleeved' with some tube stock welded inside them for structural support of the bolts, no? I may be all 'wet' here, and if I am try not to flame me too badly, I've gotten some terrific inspiration from your design and love all of the cad details, as well....it's really top-shelf! I really do love the clean look of the 'finished' piece.....Stan[/quote'] Stan, your idea is a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 'Tis indeed a good point Stan, and thanks for the comps! I've vaguely addressed it by welding the large washers to the 'thing', so things should be at least solidly mounted at the frame end. The pics on the car show me marking up where they should be welded on. I do like the idea of machining up some extra material to fit snugly in the end pieces though, shouldn't be too hard at all. Maybe even Delrin would be good enough for that job if it's a nice snug fit. Clint, thanks for the lead on Wurth, I'll check in to that. I had one guy get back to me this morning saying that he could get some made up but as it's a small run, the setup cost would be high, quoted me £25-30 for 4. He was good enough to suggest just taking a stock bolt, chopping the head off and threading the exposed end which isn't such a terrible idea, and of course much cheaper. Why didn't I think of that?!! Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 Job done, just cut down some 90mm M10 bolts to 60mm and threaded the cut end to the magical M10x1.25, dead easy instant stud! That nicely takes care of that little snaffu on my part so I can now concentrate on bigger things, as in everything else Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Job done' date=' just cut down some 90mm M10 bolts to 60mm and threaded the cut end to the magical M10x1.25, dead easy instant stud! That nicely takes care of that little snaffu on my part so I can now concentrate on bigger things, as in everything else Cheers, Rob[/quote'] Too easy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted November 27, 2005 Share Posted November 27, 2005 Hey Rob, How's your progress on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted November 27, 2005 Author Share Posted November 27, 2005 Ah well, erm, well I'm getting more and more fecked off with machine shops that just aren't doing their jobs, looks like I need to can at least one of them soon if I ever expect to get anymore done here. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S15 200sx owner Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Thats no good mate, keep on their case! I thought you had been quiet for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted November 28, 2005 Author Share Posted November 28, 2005 Thats no good mate' date=' keep on their case! I thought you had been quiet for a while.[/quote'] Yeah, def time to start hassling people now. Another case of 'if you want a job doing, do it yourself.' Course that would mean I'd have to buy a decent milling machine which would be tricky to justify Another fine example is my diff. Took it to the local shop for them to install the S15 helical centre, no probs except they didn't change the output seals like I asked so I've got to pull it apart again and do that, or just risk that the seals have survived the diff being pulled apart before, grrrr. Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted November 28, 2005 Share Posted November 28, 2005 Yeah, def time to start hassling people now. Another case of 'if you want a job doing, do it yourself.' Course that would mean I'd have to buy a decent milling machine which would be tricky to justify dude just tell the mrs its a big drill press. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted April 17, 2006 Author Share Posted April 17, 2006 OMG I'm back and working on the rear mount again! There's nothing like a bit of winter hibernation and then some sunshine to get the juices flowing! Today I made up the cross piece, in effect moustache bar. OK I did cheat and get my new found (and very good) machine shop to knock up the 'clevis ends of doom' out of some 100x60x6mm rhs I happened to have. The rest is pure Rob! The main cross piece is 50x8mm and the 4 little triangle web/braces are 5mm thick, so I reckon it should be strong enough. The really amazing bit is that it all fits together!!! Also I've got the front cross member machined a few weeks back: Which I've test fitted on the car and it seems to fit. Oh yes, I'm well overdue for a calamity Now all I've got to figure is how to connect the front of the diff. I'm going off the two rails running fore-aft under the diff and thinking some OTT () braces connecting to a Ron Tyler-esque mount up front, as that allows most of the suspension to be removed without dropping the diff too - something that appeals. So, time to get the thinking cap on again and see what ludicrious solution I can come up with Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimZ Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 That's looking really good Rob - very nice work. Might I suggest welding in some appropriate ID tubing for the through-bolts in that piece of square tubing at the top? This will avoid crushing the tubing when you tighten the bolts down. Sorry if that's a repeat - I couldn't remember if we had addressed it alerady... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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