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Z to ZX Terry Oxendale question on rotor wear


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I made the Terry Oxendale conversion on my 260Z using the 300zx rotors, turned down the diameter.025" and 280zx calipers and the 17mm 240z hubs. I wanted to know if anyone who has done this notices that only about half of the outside face of the rotor seems to be having contact from the pad. Also curious if anyone experienced a shaking in the steering wheel.

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I have done the conversion (Terry's) and have had zero issues. I am using Metal Master pads and they appear to contact the rotors perfectly, inside and outside surfaces. The only step in the conversion that is not covered to well is mounting the 280ZX calipers to the stock mounting ears on the front strut housing. Since the 280ZX calipers mount to the opposite side of the ears, which are a rough cast finish as opposed to a machined surface for the stock caliper mounting, I milled the rough side of the ears so I would have mounting surfaces that are square to the rotors/axle stubs. Of course, Spacers are required to center the caliper over the rotors. If by chance you did not true up the mounting ears before adding the spacers, your calipers may not sit square to the rotors....hence the pads not making full contact. Just some food for thought.

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I think 2126 hit it right on the money. Further wear will verify this. It just so happened that when I did this conversion, my particular set of struts had ears which were very smooth and flat (on the new mounting side) as well as parallel to the rotors face, which made any true-up unnecessary

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I think 2126 hit it right on the money. Further wear will verify this. It just so happened that when I did this conversion, my particular set of struts had ears which were very smooth and flat (on the new mounting side) as well as parallel to the rotors face, which made any true-up unnecessary

 

 

Hi Terry,

 

I was wondering if you ever ran into any vibration or balancing issues with this conversion. I ask because I get my steering wheel shaking around 40 mph now.

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2126...I didnt think of that (milling the surface to make them square). Thank you. How did you go about "milling" them?

I knew you were going to ask that! With a bare bones strut (completely stripped for easier handling) I mounted it to the table of a Bridgeport mill, taking great care to ensure the axle stub was square and perpendicular to the table, and then proceded to mill away as little as possible to get enough flat surface for a spacer to bear against it without becoming unsquare when the rotor bolts are torqued down. When I milled the other side I milled away the same amount, for consistancy. That way the spacers would be interchangable side to side. You can also use the stock milled area on the ears as a reference for squareness and perpendicularity. Does this help?

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I was hoping you wouldnt say you actually milled the face. I hoped it was something a little more practical for us guys who dont have machining tools. Well the problem makes sense to me now....but I dont have a bridgeport. Thanks a lot for the info though, it points me in the right direction.

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I have had to do this to the rear brakes with a modified bracket one time, and a 4" angle grinder did the job. It was a on-off-on-off-on thing with the caliper until perfect, but it can be done on the car, in your garage, with a little ol' grinder. Just take your time and don't take too much material off at one time. A small straight-edge (like a 6" ruler) up against the surface periodically during any grinding will help you get in the ballpark more quickly as well.

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THUNDERZ, Terry's suggestion is certainly another way to do the job without a bridgeport and removing the strut from the Z. One suggetion however, if you don't own a nice digital caliper...buy one! Us it to gage how much material you remove with the grinder. Use the stock machined caliper mounting surface as the reference, that way you can ensure your new surface is in proper alignment. One other suggestion....when you get really close to what you think is enough, finish it off with a good file! It will give you a nicer finished surface and you can make any needed minor adjustments. GET-R-DONE!!!

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2126, I really appreciate your help.

 

Your entirely welcome...just glad I could assist a fellow Z freak! And hey, lets thank Mr. Terry Oxandale for providing the info on the conversion......it certainly shortened my learning curve, back when I was trying to figure out what to do with my Z brakes, on a limited budget. Thanks Terry!

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