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Started GTO 250 project on 78 Z


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Bill......The VW trim rings come off the later model bugs and vans. I made a retaining hook to secure the top of the trim ring and a temporary screw for the bottom. The VW trim ring just fits over the headlight bucket and on my application there is no interference with the plexiglass headlight covers.. Since I mastered this picture posting... I will show more details when time permits.

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Any ONE have any ideas how to cut and fabricate metal trim rings out of aluminum or stainless steel.....ie.. stationary jig saw (Metal cuting blades) , hand held jig saw/sawzall, metal cutting bandsaw..... air powered nibbler, grinding disc. tin snips, shear ..... common edged rock.........flat metal sheet material or flattened tubing.........I (believe I can) make a pattern for a headlight cover trim ring for flat thin stainless steel plate that will need a little mig welding and bending to properly fit. If I can find the proper metal cutting stationary jig saw blades. .. I have a long throat stationary jigsaw that I have never used and have no knowledge of available metal cutting jig saw blades...

 

Hey Trouble, Were you ever able to successfully fabricate the trim rings??

 

I would be interested in a pair. I have a Vela Rossa front on mine.

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Con Brio ...Ernie Racer X earlier pointed out that stainless steel "work hardened"... and he was very correct in that.......Keep working with it and it can get so hard that it is impossible to shape, drill or cut............... No !... I plan to use regular steel that can either be chromed or powder coated and in a thickness that can be easily welded to join at least 4 pieces together to make the headlight cover trim. I made some one piece stainless steel side vent trim but the placement was inappropriate (looked like crap) My best cutting was done on my Rigid metal cutting band saw in the vertical position on the small work table I fabricated. I am now re-thinking modifing and welding light gauge steel angle iron for the grille trim.http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/my_photos

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Larry,

 

I still have those copies of the Alpha buildup you sent to me a couple (3?) years ago. I could scan those for you & email.

 

I'd rather pack up the car and the body in a moving van & drive out to Oregon to do it up right. That way I'd be closer to the PCH than in Ohio. :(

 

thx

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Tom-- one of the things that survived is that Alpha build-up article which I refer to since my Stable Works manual is missing. I consider the Kit Car article better than the manual. Things slowed down but , I have a little more money, and will probably have to utilize parts off the Tomohawk project suspension. The most important part is to get the GTO project finished and I made a dent in it. Load up and come out.. I always have room around here for you.....The wheels are replica Halibrands for the Cobra/Tomahawk project. I hace traditional cross lace Dayton "knock offs" for the 250 in 8 inch width where I can use smaller tires of the same size all around

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  • 4 weeks later...

9-1-2005 update...12 new progress pictures..http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos................................ I have cut off approximately half of the original warped rear inner fenders and then added all that back just to cover a 4 inch gap between the outer fender and the wheelwell. I did not want to vent the rear tire area to the outside rear vent because it would be just a nasty mess to clean up in the vent recess and the original GTO apparently dod not have this wheel well venting but provided the rear vent to pass air from the area behind the diff to the outside. I blocked off the inner fender surround and extended the surround for proper fit to the outside vent which will allow a one inch slot to be made to exit air from the the area behind the differential (and I am still not finished with this modification).......I have all the coilover parts except one adustable sleeve to complete the 2 inch sectioned struts.............Complete energy suspension bushing set.......JSK TB adapter and fuel rail, 240 SX Throttle Body..polished FI manifold and valve cover, QA1 progressive 12 inch coilovers 130/250 front and 175/350 rear. I have not a clue how they will perform but very interesting combo and then I am fool enuff to team the progressive coilover springs to KYB GR2 strut cartridges instead of adjustable Illuminas (go figure)... The frustration and problems with the PITA rear inner fenders slowed down the progress of the project...very depressing.and I quit working on it steadily for a few weeks.. and the front inner fenders are even worse. crap)(*^%$#@!#^*&*%##^%(*(*&^%$$ I found it was helpful to go to another task like polishing but eBay is not a recomended diversion.

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http://www.a1racing.com/index.asp?PageAction=ADVSEARCH&Page=1&txtSearchAllWords=&txtSearchExactPhrase=coil+over+sleeve&txtSearchWithOneOfTheWords=&txtSearchWithoutTheWords=&lngLookinCategoryID=0&txtSortOrder=1&intResults=50&btnSearch=Search&AdvSearchAction=GOFETCH 2.170" id adjusting sleeves to fit 280 Z struts $ 17.25 a piece. with eBay name brand coilovers from private parties averaging 10 bucks a piece some cheap coilover conversions can be had without having a machinist bore out the sleeve to fit a 280 Z strut. MY complete under $150.00 coilover conversion will come in at a third of commercial conversion kits. the Heavyweight rear progressives cost more than other parts but the front progressive came in on the opening bid and they were new.
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When you were detailing your headlight lens cutting efforts, I wonder if you might have had an easier time using a Dremel with the Flex Shaft attachment? Great for small detail cuts like you described, and pretty inexpensive on eBay.

 

As for your court judgement...and collecting. Those people will never be able to won or sell property (homes) until the judgement is 'satisfied' in court records. Sounds like the caliber of people that you had to sue would never be able to own real property anyway though. Garnishing their wages is probably the only recourse...until they go 'underground' and not use their SS# for wages earned.

 

That is one of those very frustrating aspects of being 'awarded' a judgement. The monetary amount of the judgement may be just (or, more than just); but, collecting on that judgement is a whole other bucket 'o worms. Hope that it works out for you....

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I have previously used a high speed rotary hand tool on another fiberglass headlight opening that was hard to control and wandered.The rotary tool may have been great cutting drywall or plaster board but fiberglass is a lttle tougher and harder which would make a dremel very slow going. The small air body saw and it's tapered blade is ideal for cutting a radius in fiberglass that can exceede 1/4 inch thick. The 4th low cost air body saw I obtained from Harbout Freight worked for longer periods of times. A more expensive air body saw model would no doubt be ideal for cutting fiberglass due to the high degree of dexterity control you maintain with the small tool. When operationg properly and not jamming to a stop....this is a remakable tool and if operating correctly every the entire job of cutting out every opening would not have taken 30 minutes... .............................................................No bull ...I still have to do more work on the passenger side inner fender vent surround for a proper fit. I could have trimmed and fitted flashing or formica counter top material inside the fender as a mold for the inner fender and removed the rear tub to securely fasten the flashing/sheathing or formica inside the fender to lay enough fiberglass to take a set to hold the shape. Then remove the "mold " to finish the completion of the fiberglass lay up. I would have had a lighter and better fitting inner fender. I have lost about 1/2 inch in wheel well depth by using these crappy inner fenders . in other words I could have made the entire inner fenders easier and gained another 1/2 inch of upward movement for the rear tires. (which at times maybe needed). The problems cannot be seen and may aid in drafting air from out underneath the rear of the car which appears that a lot can accmulate at speed and why Ferrari made this vent to "air out" the rear end. The vent was definitely NOT made to air out the rear fender wells.

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Hopefully the rear PITA inner fenders are finished... Out of scrap sheet metal I fabricated a license plate fastner with two nuts welded on and pre bonded with the fiberglass strand body putty to the inside of the rear tub. I had these threaded square " pieces of steel " that I also bonded to the inside rear tub with the fiberglass reinforced body putty for the license plate holder. I will later bond over with fiberglass resin and mat for a more secure bond ............. Any time you are bonding fiberglass, you must grind the fiberglass surface to be bonded or it will not hold the part bonded .... I wanted to make some fiberglass tail light rings to recess the tailights more. I scoured my storage sheds until I found a red plastic bowl which bottom was the correct outside diameter of the tailight ring I wanted and the recess on the bottom was the correct depth for the thickness for the tail light ring. I center drilled a hole in the body of a tailight housing and in the center of the bottom of the bowl recess. Hose clamped a 2 inch thin sheet metal (sheathing) strip around the tailight housing and then found a long bolt to clamp the tail light housing and the bowl together completing the taillight ring "mold". I mixed gel coat and re-inforced body putty and spread it in the "recess ring" at the bottom of the bowl and..... made four rings without the use of any mold release since all the "mold" surfaces I used, fiberglass will not adhere to. I am still laughing about this innovation and will use the fiberglass rings as a pattern for metal taillight rings .All this was done without any measurements >. ...............I placed the rings on the passenger side tailight holes and found they were 1/4 inch too close to accept the rings. I placed the two rings on the passenger tail light holes and marked a 1/4 inch moon shaped sliver to be removed by my air body saw. I cut the sliver out and then bonded the sliver of fiberglass to the other side of the hole..and moved the holes a 1/4 inch apart where my new rings will fit perfectly side by side..............................................................Now that I am thru with the inner fenders I have came up with an idea to snap the Z lights into the funky utility tailights and secure a bolt on barrier strip betwwen the fiberglass rear pan and the Datsun rear panel which looks like cyclone tunnel for air being trapped under the rear of the car and trapped ai rmigrating inside a " leaky" passenger compartment ............... http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/8223&urlhint=actn,ren%3as,1%3af,0

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Extended the stock gas filler by cutting the top off one stock gas filler tube (gas cap twist piece on top of filler tube) and welding it to a exhaust pipe reducer (small end). I cut and angled the the large end of the exhaust pipe reducer to effect a bend and placed the angled end over the top of the unmodified stock gas filler and welded it on to finish the extension .....see pictures http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=/8223&urlhint=actn,ren%3as,5%3af,0

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  • 1 month later...

Just wanted to chime in that I've got a VR kit. I've got the nose on and have test fitted the rear tub for the first time. I'd be interested in the headlight cover and ring. I was hoping that John W. would be able to come up with those before I finish the car.

 

The car has a Chevy 350 in it with vortec heads and holly pro-jection fuel injection. If anyone can teach me how to post pics, I'll upload some as I go along.

 

In in the SF Bay area, just north of San Francisco. I keep hoping to find someone that would like to work together on my car and one of theirs --doesn't have to be a VR. I'd just like the company.

 

Michael

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I am corresponding with John W on trim rings. It seems I have a workable start on a set of prototype aluminum trim rings for the Stable Works kit.Just had a lot of life's setbacks lately.. LOL.... Once I get my wind back and the dust brushed off I will be back at it.http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos

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