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RB25det header flange..In 321 Stainless


Guest Aguyandaredhead

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Guest Aguyandaredhead

At one time I had a website saved that offered them for the 20,25 and 26.. I just can't seem to find it.

 

I also thought those who have recently made a custom header might be able to tell me who made it for them. I could then give them a call..

 

 

Thanks for the thought Stony.

 

Jeff

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Guest JAMIE T

It is a shame they are not stainless. Also, I would like to see a 1/2"-5/8" flange for a turbo manifold. I have waterjet access. I should take a gasket to my guy. I'll let you guys know something next week.

 

edit: I have an RB26, not RB25. So I couldn't get one made for the 25. I'm right strapped for money right now since my wife is gonna be having our second child ANYDAY.

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Guest Aguyandaredhead

That is not the site I was thinking of but hey thanks. I will keep that in mind as a last resort. So did James build your entire header out of mild steel or just the flange?

 

Jamie, I might be willing to bank roll this for you and I if you can get someone to do it out of stainless. I can supply a gasket for the RB25det.

 

Let me know

Jeff

 

Thanks again James

 

Jeff

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304 or 321 stainless to mild steel is fine when the joint is welded with 309 wire. Very few headers come with a stainless flange. It probably has to do with warpage. Stainless does some real neat contortion tricks when it gets hot. Cast and steel like to break studs on a six cylinder, I'd love to see what stainless does. I can get high quality, thick steel flanges from HKS. Probably $100-200.

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Guest JAMIE T

Matt is right. Putting small cuts between the ports to allow for expansion of the flange will help. The tubing will take the movement alittle. You really don't want a one piece flange for an inline 6.

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Guest Aguyandaredhead

Matt, I wish I had known that when I ordered the valve seals and stuff from you a week or two ago. If you could find out the thickness of the flange for a RB25det and the cost I would be interested.. Looks like I am going to attempt this myself so here we go..

 

Jamie, if a person was to cut between every port on the flange would they likely not have a problem if they removed the header and then were to try and reinstall it after a few heat cycle's? How much could you expect it to move?

 

 

 

 

Jeff

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headers.jpg

The headers on this V12 were made with individual flanges. The thought was that any deformation would be taken up by the 36’ pipe. This is a 3.2.1 design with 304 tubing.

The flanges were made from mild steel. Just something that was easier/faster to work with.

No problems in 6 years.

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Jeff......did you not finally receive your Aussie stainless manifold from your source ? I thought they hooked you up ?

If not,I still have your older 25 gasket from when I was comparing ports. I should of gone ahead and made a program for water-jetting both ,not just the 26.

 

Let me know if you want me to help on this.Whether I need to gather 321 plate and do a program burn for the 25 ? Perhaps with semi-slice going between the ports that you could cut the rest of the way through later.You;ll need to choose your plate thickness though.

I'm surprized I haven't heard from you about this earlier ?

Vinny

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Guest JAMIE T

Yes, they do move around. But since they are seperate, you can pry on them and pull on them etc... to get them back in place. They usually don't move more than a 1/16th". I've had headers on a Mustang that had seperate flanges per port and had them on and off a couple of times(big boost, stock motor). They did move around, but not too much that I couldn't get them back on.

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Guest Aguyandaredhead

Well Vince, I thought I had this all worked out.. However My source for the exhaust decided that it was more conv. to sell my header already made to another who was much closer to thier shop. I could not prevent this so I had him just send me the intake and other parts I got from him. I guess that is what I get for telling him I was in no rush. Now when I tell him I am ready and send him the final payment he is too busy to make me another one. Oh well I will just fab one myself. Or If I can get a hand from Someone ;) ;) that would be great. I think after doing some reasearch and listening to everyone here I will go the mild steel flange option. I would like it to be 1/2" thick though. If I remember right you are a pro at welding stainless 321 right, maybe we can work something out. Any help you can afford would be great, I finally got on the ball and am ready to bolt the motor back together for the final time. I have everything for it powdercoated and all new parts so I will assm. and put in a bag for install later.

 

 

Drop me a note.

 

Jeff

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OK. The HKS flanges are laser-cut, mild steel. They are a two piece design (front 3 and rear 3). They start life as a 16mm (0.630) plate and after they are cut, the plate is fly cut on both sides to a final thickness of 12mm (0.472). I've used HKS flanges for RB26, SR20, 13B, etc; they are very high quality. Price is $130 for the two piece set for RB26. They take a month to get and I've orderd a couple sets for future projects. If anyone wants one, PM or email me at matt@motorworx.com

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Guest Aguyandaredhead

Hey Matt, What about the RB25det Tthat I started this thread about?

 

The little guy always gets forgoten.

 

J/K ;)

 

Jeff

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Hey Matt' date=' What about the RB25det Tthat I started this thread about?

 

The little guy always gets forgoten.

 

J/K ;)

 

Jeff[/quote']

 

Sorry man, I lost my mind. The flange for the 25 is the same deal except that it's one piece and cost is $150

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Sorry man, I lost my mind. The flange for the 25 is the same deal except that it's one piece and cost is $150

 

Hey Jeff......thats a great price for something already on the shelf. You can ALWAYS make a seperation cut later to set them up like the RB26 2-piece.

 

And about the welding of 321.......I'm still on the learning curve there. As much thought as you've put into this beast, better to have NO errors in the ex. manifold.I'll be relying on a Pro for even my Tig'd 321. Your welcome to use him if need be ? You can always tack everything in place and send them too me and I'll have him quote you a final Tig cost ?

 

If you don't buy the HKS flange from Matt,let me know and I'll do the 25 flange Water-jet program for the mild steel 7/16 final thickness.Just a bit under 1/2" once the flycut on the mill is done.

...........Vinny 8)

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