auxilary Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 maybe you guys can shine some light on this. I have ross's rear disk brackets, and a set of s13 calipers I got free about 2 years ago. today I did hte regular thing: cut the backing plate off, install bracket, put calipers in, blah blah. I only did one side so far because of some issues I ran into 1. the bracket would not line up correctly with bolt pattern. I had to grind off some metal on both strut housing and bracket itself in order for it to line up and retain proper bolt pattern and offset. If I flip the bracket 180* to mount it on the bottom, no problem, it lines up all 3 bolt holes without issues. So this was external metal clearance. Haven't test it on pass. side yet 2. the caliper (maybe it's problematic itself?), when installed, does not allow enough room to squeeze even the stock worn pad in place. I put a c-clamp to it to see if maybe it wasn't compressing all the way, but I didn't exert TOO much force on it. However, it seemed like it moved back as far as it could... Am I missing some simple stuff here? On the side note, I did not have to replace my studs (I bought a set of 8 quest studs for 3/ea at Napa. they raised prices), looks like there's enough meat to grip the rim and stud. Thoughts? Maybe caliper just needs a rebuild and it's half-seized? The bracket spacing not lining up kinda threw me off too. Oh yeah, ignore dirty stuff, this was a trial fit and set, haven't painted calipers, etc yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 Is it possible the bracket is for the other side? Pardon my ignorance if you've already checked that a hundred times. I've never heard of anyone having problems with Ross' brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 Did you make sure that the park brake cam is backed off all the way? The center of the piston has a treaded cam to actuate the PB. Rotate it to collapse the the piston to its retracted state. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 Check for some pics of other guys swap. I think you may have the bracket on the wrong side. I thought the caliper mounts to the top rear corner of the disc. Looks like yours is to the the top front. Nice to see you're working on your car again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted June 26, 2005 Author Share Posted June 26, 2005 no, i checked the install pics, and mine's installed the same way. MONGO: thanks, i forgot to check that. My neon's rear calipers are the same way, and I must've brain farted and forgot about the twist portion. JAMIE: Yeah, they only work with specific bracket per side, I am pretty sure I got the right bracket on the right side on the upside, I have stock ebrake cables off the 240sx brakes, which would work great as throttle cables! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 1. the bracket would not line up correctly with bolt pattern. I had to grind off some metal on both strut housing and bracket itself in order for it to line up and retain proper bolt pattern and offset. If I flip the bracket 180* to mount it on the bottom, no problem, it lines up all 3 bolt holes without issues. So this was external metal clearance. Haven't test it on pass. side yet Is this a left side bracket on the right side problem? Just a guess. 2. the caliper (maybe it's problematic itself?), when installed, does not allow enough room to squeeze even the stock worn pad in place. I put a c-clamp to it to see if maybe it wasn't compressing all the way, but I didn't exert TOO much force on it. However, it seemed like it moved back as far as it could... On my old Nissan rear calipers the pistons have to be SCREWED back in. If you look at the pistons you might see three or 4 dimples around the end of the piston. You can either buy a caliper tool, or just stick a screwdriver or needle nose pliers in the divots and screw them in. Righty tighty should get you a lot more clearance for the pads. EDIT--Oops, somehow I missed Mongo and Dan's responses, looks to me like they've got the right idea. BTW--I used the 240SX cable in my Z and it worked great. All you have to do is remove the rear bell crank and attach the cable directly to the handle. Then just hold the cable up to the rear floor area and mount the brackets to the floor wherever it's convenient. That's how I ran mine for years, worked great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted June 26, 2005 Share Posted June 26, 2005 happy to help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 no' date=' i checked the install pics, and mine's installed the same way. [img']http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/noline.jpg[/img] Sorry Alex. That's weird. I'm sure you dropped an e-mail to Ross. Seems really strange that you would have to grind to fit a part from MML. When you take it apart take a shot of the bracket to show us how much grinding you had to do. Something sounds screwy here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 I remember reading old posts were someone complained about needing to grind on Ross's kit and Ross replied back and set them straight. Try a search to get your answers...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted June 27, 2005 Author Share Posted June 27, 2005 Dan: I'll take another pic of the bracket when I disassemble this. I only did one side because that's the one I had problems with. Passenger rear is still stock drum. I haven't emailed ross about it yet, but will shortly. Pop'n'wood: I'm searching, but not finding anything. Any keywords you can think of that might help, let me know. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted June 27, 2005 Share Posted June 27, 2005 Alex, thanks for your note. Thanks to the others who responded to Alex's online query as well. Alex, we just got your email sent this am and could have responded direct previously on the weekend if we'd heard previously. (thanks to others to suggest Alex email us, we like to support our products!) Appears you have a very rare strut housing we've encountered twice before from customer info. This rear housing casting is thicker in the top region with 2-3 mm's additional metal (precise amount we don't know as only ones we've heard of before were geographically distant and in the process of being ground. It's along the top line of the strut housing as I recall and their's lots of meat on the housing to take it down in that area. As you found the bolt patterns are perfect and it's a simple cast OEM housing interference. We did revise our design this spring including one tweak to eliminate this rare issue from occurring. On your caliper piston/pad fitment, the 240SX calipers (and many other rears) have a piston design that has to be screwed back into the piston body to retract it, not just squeezed with C clamp etc. You can use the notches on the piston face and a robertson screwdriver, or pliers etc to turn it back into it's own body. Good luck and any other questions feel free to email us directly. Any other questions please let me know, Cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted June 27, 2005 Author Share Posted June 27, 2005 Thanks for the heads up, Ross, I appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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