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HybridZ

3.1 stroker horsepower rating


Kooneon

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Hmmm....suppose you start with 180rwhp.

 

It depends largely on the cam, if you custom order a "wimp grind" from Lunati, you can get about 100 hp lower cuz the valves barely open. Taped over K&N filter substracts another 5 hp. Overdrive pulleys can fetch another -10 hp. Use water instead of synthetic oil will get you another -20hp. Turbonator inside the intake track will reduce another 5. If you don't balance the crankshaft, minus 20. Retard the timing can get another -10. install A/C = -10hp. With more trick you can get it to run negative hp.

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Guest norm[T12SDSUD]

Be our guest confused.I don;t see you telling him anything.

And quite frankly ,this site doesn't need some of the stupidity that is displayed constantly at the other Z sites.

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You aren't our youngest member, however, many of the other young guys on this site do display a certain level of maturity that makes it hard to tell them apart from the rest.

 

And as for the rating on hp, I wouldnt know, though Im sure it somewhere at or above 200.

 

What is it you are saying? Absolutely nothing. Much like the origional question that has no information in it, any answer you give it is useless.

 

If you have a question. Search. If you can't find the answer in a search, look for yourself around the forums and see if you can find it. It HAS been asked before. There are dyno graphs here with the information I suspect our first poster is after. Absolutely horsepower numbers are completely useless information in reality, and they should only be used for comparison purposes between cars on the same dyno, or by different states of tune on the same dyno.

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kooneon, i was 19 when i dropped a 3.1L in my 240Z (1999). i had high expectations. i think this is the answer you are looking for...and what i wish i knew at the time...

 

my 3.1 had an unported/unpolished head with an average cam on it at first, passably tuned triple webers, an excellent direct ignition system, and slightly restricted exhaust (headers + flowmaster).

 

this setup produced a dynoed 131 rwhp (157 ft-lbs)... ~L24 oem performance. i could barely peel out with an open diff and 205 tire width (i really had to get the rpms up and drop the clutch). even then it would only peel for a second or two.

 

i was astonished and humiliated by the numbers. all that money on the 3.1...for what? but the dyno didnt mean anything...it simply told me i was restricted somewhere else. by dialing in my ignition curve over 9 pulls, i was able to get up to 157 rwhp and 176 ft-lbs, just by adjusting my timing.

 

so....this should be an excellent example of just how important the big picture is. a good head and carb tuning to realize the head's potential are very, very important. dont forget ignition, intake, and exhaust can all be weak links too.

 

dropping in a very well built head gave me ~50 hp (dynoed) right off the bat. opening the exhaust, getting bigger venturis for my webers and dialing the the jets has probably yielded another 50 hp (undynoed). i currently have 36mm venturis, and the weber chart shows i should have 38-40 for max power. i suspect 42 may even be applicable for me since im trying to feed the potential of a Sunbelt head. but i need 45DCOEs to go bigger than 36.

 

at the moment, i peel 1st and 2nd if i ever floor it. two days ago i snapped a u-joint downshifting into 4th at 80mph. i haven't touched the 3.1 block at any point in my engine's evolution. it's all about realizing it's potential.

 

driving a ferrari doesn't mean you will bring a beautiful woman home with you. you just have more...potential...

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  • 2 years later...
Guest 280ZForce

i've seen n/a 3.0-3.1L stroker engines make upwards of 290-330 whp when done correctly w/ all the right head work on properly done carb or fuel injected setup and of course ignition and tuning upgrades. Lots of money for an n/a though... but I will say it sure does sound bad ass!

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