RedHotZ Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 I finally got the EDIS working! After alot of testing and also checking Ford wiring diagrams we found the one thing that messed it up. + from VR sensor should go to pin 5 on the EDIS module and negative to pin 6. That worked for me anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedHotZ Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Now the ignition works.. there's no fuel. Probably it's just a minor programming fault, but I can't seem to find it. I'll give a description of my settings so hopefully one of you can.. Everything is working but - No reading on Pulse width (red gauge) - No reading on duty cycle =0.0 - Spark advance = -10 (red gauge) when cranking Rpm gauge has a steady reading of about 220. PIP is connected to TACH terminal on relay board. SAW is connected to S5. Note: I can't choose "time based" crank timing under SPARK-SETTINGS as described in: http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-edis.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Set you crank RPM to like 150 or so. Right now it is set to 300. I beleive no fuel will be squirted until you meet or exceed the crank RPM. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Set you crank RPM to like 150 or so. Right now it is set to 300. I beleive no fuel will be squirted until you meet or exceed the crank RPM. Pete On mine the low rpm (300) is cranking, were more fuel is added below that rpm. Above it goes to the regular table. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedHotZ Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 It is some errors written in the audit log, but what does it mean? I tried setting crank rpm to 200 which did't help much. Also started the engine with "starting-gas"(?) hoping the higher rpm would force it past the cranking program with no effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 I had similar warning messages when I first got the EDIS code loaded, and MT configured. When I went to the lastest code variant, and reinstalled MT, all the warnings went away. Before spending any time trying to figure why there is no fuel, get those warnings to go away. I suspect you have a firmware problem that is related to those warning messages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedHotZ Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 This is what the label on the MS-box from RS-Autoparts states: - Hardware: MSnEDIS - Firmware: MSnSpark Extra 024s9 Production no.: MS2-0251 In Autotune Configurator I have activated MSnS-E 024s. Does anything else have to be activated? Also tried to install MSnS-E ver 029q, but it wasn't too keen on doing that. Will try that again today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 MT should display the same firmware code that is loaded in the MS. It looks like MT is configured for a different firmware from what is loaded in teh MS. This is why you are seeing warning messages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedHotZ Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Yesterday it finally started! Downloaded 029q and cranked it... without anything happening.. Got totally fed up, loaded a default file that came with the 029q files (Saw later it was set up for 8 cyl ), and then it fired! I'm very happy! Thanks for all help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted March 21, 2007 Share Posted March 21, 2007 Hi guys I'm trying my best to get ready for SEZ8...I almost have everything on the car and just wanted to show how I mounted my 36-1 wheel... Thanks to BRAAP and others, I had some cool ideas to go by. I had a friend cut me a ring out of mild steel a little bigger and thicker than the ID of the 36-1 wheel...Tig welded it to my pulley outside lip and the paid one of the local machine shop guys 15$ to turn it true on the outside and inside diameter. My ring is loose on the pulley just enough to clock it if needed, then I installed two set screws like BRAAP's pulley....I did my pulley this way to try retaining my A/C pulley, being south Alabama has some pretty warm days.....anyway here is a couple of pics...I have seen a few questions on different threads on how you should keep your A/C pulley and this is what I come up with. Again thanks for all you guys Ideas and BRAAP your my hero.. Just trying to keep up with you guys great craftsmanship. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted March 22, 2007 Author Share Posted March 22, 2007 Looks great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moerex Posted March 28, 2007 Share Posted March 28, 2007 I'm trying to make edis work on a msns-e 2.687. I got spark now. Thanks Pete and Clifton. Now I'm not getting a signal for the tach in MT. Anybody have any ideas? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted March 28, 2007 Author Share Posted March 28, 2007 The EDIS module will work fine in limp mode without the MS. So I would check that you have the MS configured correctly for the input signal. It should not be set up for a VR sensor. Also, check in MT under "Basic Settings -> Codebase and Output Functions" that only EDIS is selected (no other ignition setups). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nags Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 That looks like basically the same thing I have right now.. I haven't used set screws though, i was planning on tacking the ring to the pulley but i am unsure if i can do this because of the metal the ring is made out of?? what type of metal is it?? is it weldable with a mig? or even a tig? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 9, 2007 Author Share Posted April 9, 2007 You can't weld the Ford rind to the Datsun damper. The damper is some sort of cast. The weld just won't stick. Then I tried braze, and it got the damper so hot that the rubber damping material melted, and the pulley came off. Use bolts. I ended up having a friend make a trigger wheel on his plasma cutter (see earlier posts). I then bolted it to the damper, and trued it up on a lathe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 No welding...I could have made the fit tighter, so it could have been pressed on or heated...but I wanted to be able to clock in case I moved my sensor. The wheel moved some on the way to SEZ and I now have 4 set screws for safe measure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nags Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 I have a ring made out of mild steel thats press fit to the dampener. I know the mild steel ring I had made I can weld to, but can I weld to the edis ring??? what is it made of?? I'd rather just tack it good in a couple spots then put set screws in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gearheadstik Posted April 9, 2007 Share Posted April 9, 2007 For the second time.... No, it's made of some blend of pot metals...My bad third time.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moerex Posted April 11, 2007 Share Posted April 11, 2007 Pete, Sorry to keep bothering you. I fill pretty stupid right now. My ms is not a msns its a ms2. running the 2.687 code. Still not able to crank the car. It's a fresh rebuild. I have T3/T04e, Pallnet fuel rail, 42lb injectors, Walbro 225 fuel pump, and the stock fuel pressure regulator. The VR sensor is right on the 6th tooth following the missing tooth and make I have a bright blue spake. The timming is right. I can't get it to fire at all. I've done everything I can thing of. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted April 11, 2007 Author Share Posted April 11, 2007 Have you checked the timing with a light? I think limp mode is like 5 degrees. Are you seeing the crank advance that you have set in MT with a timing light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts