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V3 EDIS-x installation, set up, etc.

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OK I hooked the 280Z tach wire (no resistor) directly to PIN 2 on the EDIS module and the tach works, mostly.

 

When you start the car, it takes a few seconds for the tach to wake up. The tach also drops to zero suddenly whenever the RPMS drop below 1000. Once you rev up again, the tach wakes up, and works perfectly. I set my idle around 1000 so it pretty much keeps the tach awake. It seems that below 1000rpms the signal to the tach weakens too much.

 

 

I took the car for a quick spin, not too far from home, in case it quit. The car ran awesome! The exhaust smells much less, it revs silky smooth and I took it to about 4500rpms under boost. It seems to have a ton of top end. It seems to have a little more torque in the lower end and tons of smooth pulling power. Keep in mind that in addition to EDIS-6, I put on a solid P90A with a 5 angle valve job, a mild intake manifold and exhaust manifold port and match, and this head is 0.007" thinner than the previous one. The biggest thing I notice so far is SMOOTH power.

 

I still need to do more investigation on this:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=138328

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Cygnusx1 is also now running EDIS-6 with MS on his L-6 and found a later model Chrysler coil pack and was generous enough to share the pin outs, and with his permission, that info has now been added to this thread.

 

Here is Daves post;

 

BTW here is the pinout for the 2000 Dodge Caravan Coilpack. This pack will use normal spark plug boots.

 

368345110_sqvAk-L.jpg

 

368345097_xBrBp-L.jpg

 

 

BONUS INFO!

The FORD EDIS-6 coil plug will fit directly into this coilpack if you hack it up with a saw and file or grinder. The pin configuration is identical and mates right up once you "reshape" the FORD Connector body. Of course you need to rewire it to match the pinouts.

 

 

I mounted the Coil Pack on the firewall near the heater hoses. I mounted the EDIS6 module, right where the original coil goes (drivers inner fender). This keeps the VR wires short, and since my MSII is under the drivers seat, it's a straight run back to MSII with the PIP/SAW wires. Also, the tachometer wire is right there near the old coil. Just take it off the old coil and tie it to PIN2 on EDIS.

 

Thank you Dave,

Paul

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New discovery about using EDIS PIN2 to run the tachometer. When I turn on the A/C compressor, the tach dies. Maybe the magnetic field of the A/C clutch dampens some of the VR signal. Or something else....who knows. Once I turn off the A/C clutch the tach comes back after 20 seconds or so. My VR wires are well sheilded but they do run across the front of the A/C clutch by about 2". The back (plug portion) of the VR sensor is about 1/8" from the clutch pulley.

 

The car continues to run fine either way.

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If you have a Chevy V8: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MAA%2D29003&autoview=sku

or for a Ford V8:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=MSD%2D8522&autoview=sku

^^^^ the beauty of hotrodding a very common engine is that the uncommon parts for stuff like this are COMMON. :)

 

But for the true hotrodder, anything that you can't buy, you MAKE.

I'm sure you could just leave the distributor in, or one with the rotor shaft cut off above the bearing/seal if an aftermarket replacement like above isn't available.

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so once you pull out the distributor, what do you use to cap the hole? ive tried searching.. but keep coming up empty handed.:banghead:

 

A cork.

 

Oh wait this is a sticky....ok then. Make a plate out of something solid and bolt it on. Use a gasket too.

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so once you pull out the distributor, what do you use to cap the hole? ive tried searching.. but keep coming up empty handed.:banghead:

 

Quoted form another thread;

As Pete did, I just bolted on a piece of aluminum plate roughly shaped to fit the old Dizzy hole.

 

ALSO…. You will want to remove the quill shaft and cut off the top portion of the shaft, (at the magenta line in the picture below), so it doesn’t flop around in the front cover. The Distributor USED to locate the top end of the quill shaft, (again see inset in the picture below), so with the distributor now collecting dust in your used parts bin, the top portion of the quill shaft will wobble around and “could[/]” prematurely wear out the area that located the quill shaft in the front cover. Also, being as there is no longer a distributor, there is no need to “clock” the quill shaft anymore as its only function is to drive the oil pump.

 

HTH…

 

Pearl2Medium.jpg

 

Quill1Medium.jpg

 

Since that post there has been discussion regarding leaving the quill shaft alone with no adverse affects, i.e. not cutting it down. I would agree it probably wont hurt anything to leave it be, my personal preference is that it is so easy to remove and cut down and not have to worry about if it will or wont, be an issue in the future. :wink:

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The coil pack and EDIS module HAS to come from a 6 cylinder Ford vehicle to work on the 6 cylinder Z car. I have pulled more than a few EDIS systems from Ford Windstar Minivans and Ford Explorers…

 

In the wrecking yard' date=' find the FORD V-6 vehicles, mid to late ‘90’s. If the engine has a distributor then move on to the next vehicular. If no dizzy, locate the spark bolts in the heads and trace the high tensions leads back to the coil pack. If no high tension leads, then just look on a around the engine.

 

If you can’t find one, check eBay or I’d be glad to pull one from my local yard, ([i']usually has more than a few[/i]), $75 including shipping in the lower 48. :wink:

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well that takes care of that. now I just got back from the local pick n pull and I could not find the EDIS6 module anywhere. I must be looking in the wrong place. where did ford hide this thing?

 

Look for an Explorer or Aerostar with the V6 from the early '90s. The module is about the size of a pack of cigarettes and usually bolted to the passenger side inner fender in the engine compartment.

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I often jokingly brag about the race car having an ignition module from a Aerostar and a coil pack from a Dodge mini van. Wow, awesome dude :mrgreen:. After seeing (and feeling) the spark that this setup throws, it IS awesome....

 

Pete

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My engine is running pretty good now. I have most of the rich / lean issues and bucking taken out. Time to start working on the spark. Can someone please share their spark advance table? I know that there is no one size fits all but I would like a model or two to work from so I know where to slope the curve and where to flatten it out. If my curve does not resemble the models, then I have to look to see if I have an issue.

MSII 2.886, MegaTune 2.25

Thanks in advance.

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This post is in response to questions regarding the EDIS-6 firing order. I felt it worthy to post in dedicated EDIS thread in hopes it might help others.

 

Ok, I spent about 15 minutes going through the EDIS stuff on the MS web pages, through deduction, I was able to peice together how set your EDIS 6 firing order. If will run if you have spark and VR sensor is oriented to the 36-1 trigger wheel with the #1 cylinder at TDC firing stroke, (60 degrees advanced from the missing tooth, or looking at the front of the engine, 6 teeth counterclockwise!)

 

If you car does not run, but is getting spark, regardless of what you have done thus far, her is fail safe way verify your coil pack firing order.

 

1) Ohm out which paired coil of your coil pack goes to which pin. 3 coils, 4 pins. They will all share a common pin, the other 3 pins will be the individual pin for each coil.

 

2) Z car firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. As result, with wasted spark ignition, these cylinders are paired up. 1-6, 2-5, 3-4. So the waste spark coil firing order is now 1-6, 2-5, 3-4.

 

3) EDIS-6 fires these pins in the pic below, in this order pin #10, then pin #12, then Pin #11.

EDIS-6L-6.jpg

 

 

So the coil that feeds cylinders 1-6 is wired to pin #10. The coil that feeds cylinders 2-5 is wired to pin #12. The coil that feeds cylinders 3-4 is wired to pin#11.

 

If your car still doesn’t run but you have spark at the plugs, then you have other issues such as improper clocking of the VR sensor to the 36-1 trigger wheel.

This is easy to verify. With the plug removed from the SAW signal, puts EDIS in limp home mode, ignition timing becomes locked at 10 degrees before TDC. With a helper cranking the engine with the key, using a timing light on cyl #1, your stock Datsun timing marks on the crank damper should be indicating 10 degrees BTDC, or there about. If not, you need to find out why that is, (most likely VR sensor is not clocked appropriately to the 36-1 trigger wheel.)

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Look for an Explorer or Aerostar with the V6 from the early '90s. The module is about the size of a pack of cigarettes and usually bolted to the passenger side inner fender in the engine compartment.

 

Great tip Matt should be looking here soon enough

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