evildky Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 ok I've decided 13 psi isn't enough and I need to add an intercooler, just wondering what size I/C piping everyone uses? I was thinking 2.5"? just wanted to be sure it was big enugh without taking up to much space also looks like I'm getting an aluminum radiator and the twin 12's don't seem to be cutting it so what electric fans everyone running? I got a taurus fan and it won't even fit as a pusher, my car is an early 71 if that matters or does everyone hack up the fan and or the lower valance support to fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 twin 12's done cut it? im only running one 16inch reg ole jegs unit.. works great. Thumper on this site has twin 12's and it works great. and neither of us have alumimum radiators.. and i run 2.5inch fmic piping.. plenty big and room to grow for when you add more and more power. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akeizm Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 and i run 2.5inch fmic piping.. plenty big and room to grow for when you add more and more power. same here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 I would agree with Mike, I mean you could go with 2.25 and its pretty decent, but you will want to upgrade and if you ever go to a T4, or a Hybrid T3/T4, then you would definetly have to go 2.5 at least to get good gains. I didnt do that and Im wishing that I did now first instead of going with the 2.25 As far as the fans, I cant see why they arent doing you justice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 9, 2005 Author Share Posted September 9, 2005 the waterpump is an autozone part the thermostat is a Nissan unit the temp was rated in C, I think it converted to like 169f? maybe the autozone pump can't keep up? also I am running the smaller euro damper so it's not spinning as fast as a zx damper would spin it, maybe I need the electric water pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 Your pump isn't the problem. Especially if it runs hot above 50 mph. Get the radiator rodded. Crap gets built up in the tubes over time and. Most places here charge $40. It will be like new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 9, 2005 Share Posted September 9, 2005 uh, when I was preparing to install my I/C, and asked about it on here, the consensus was that 2 1/4" was enough for up to 350hp at least (or maybe it was even 400?? Might want to search for that old thread). And that anything bigger would just increase lag. Now you guys are all on 2.5"? What gives? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 9, 2005 Author Share Posted September 9, 2005 I'm hoping to get near 300whp with the stock turbo leaving upgrade turbo for later, I'm on a quest to get my junkyard motor with stock junkyard turbo to run 11's I know it sounds little crazy but my car only weighs 2170lbs acording to the calculators I only need about 280whp it dyno'd 220 with the stock injection @9 psi and ran a 13.010 while overheating with that set up as for the radiator, mine is a new 3 row modine I put in last year, did the pump and thermostat at the same time hasn't run cool since, maybe I got a clogged rad from the factory? I just keep replacing parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 9, 2005 Author Share Posted September 9, 2005 oh yeah, anyone got a good source for the I/C piping and wht links and lenghts I need or just get a bunch of pieces and start welding? and it's aluminum only for me btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 10, 2005 Share Posted September 10, 2005 well, yeah if you're planning on running 11's (NOT gonna be easy on a 'junkyard' motor, but Jersey's getting close, and on the stock T3 even, but it's probably gonna take a bit more than 280rwhp), then you may want to just go 2.5" right off the bat. But I think you're going to suffer a bit for now, as that larger piping will increase lag. But if on the other hand you're 'only' aiming for 300rwhp, I say 2.25" would work just fine, will cost a little less and will be easier to fit. I got my 2.25" piping in place no problem with the stock distributor, fan and even the stock 280zxt fan shroud! I want to know how the heck you put down 220hp at 9psi with no I/C and stock injection!!! I only put down 200rwhp at 10psi on an 'optimistic' dynojet. It took 12psi intercooled and an RRFPR to provide extra fuel before I broke 220. You must have a happy motor or an even more optimistic dyno! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZ-E Posted September 10, 2005 Share Posted September 10, 2005 I bought 4 ubends from this guy in 3 inch, and I made my whole exhaust out of it less the cone from the turbo for $80 delivered. I dint even need 4 though as I though I would. Im sure for either 2.25 or 2.5 would be much cheaper. http://www.perfomancepeddler.com Shipping is free and its really fast. I was well impressed with his service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 11, 2005 Author Share Posted September 11, 2005 it was actualy only 216.5hp and that was with the timing set very quiclky by ear due to diagnosing a bad ignitor,as for mods on my healthy junk yard motor I was using the smaller early damper, electric fan, 2.5 crush bent exhaust with no muffler, no air filter, 45psi of fuel? (I don't remember exact fuel pressure but it was pig rich on the bottom and lean on top) , home made fuel rail and a 240SX 5 speed, I think the timing would have helped bring a few more hp but my nerves were shot it was a long day and almost didn't get dyno'd it was kinda cool I got on the dyno right after a guy with a stingray vette and a fresh 355, he had more hp but I had more torque all that jaz about american v8 torque went out the window, the domestic guys actually stuck around to watch me run the lil old datsun (I don't think they believed me when I told them I expected 200-220 whp) they seemed real impressed with the numbers and I think a little more respect for little old datsuns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sims76 Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 I'm running 2.25 before the IC and 2.5 after the IC. I don't have a technical reason for going 2.5, I just did with the mentality that bigger (within reason) is better. I bought the piping and couplers from http://www.roadraceengineering.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 hmmm I'm still kinda amazed that you made that much, even the torque as well. I was at 200/234 at 10psi, no intercooler, bone stock everything except the fuel pump. bastardized exhaust made of crush bent 2.5" and 3", through a straight through glasspack... barely qualifies as a muffler at all Furthermore, I'm wondering how you are getting away with 13psi with no IC. You... really... must have gotten the lucky pick of the junkyard L28ET's.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted September 11, 2005 Share Posted September 11, 2005 same here. and here. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 12, 2005 Author Share Posted September 12, 2005 I'm getting away with 13 psi with no intercooler now because of megasquirt, i'm sure your stock ecu dyno's showed what mine did (lean up top) so with the extra fuel mapping and the extra timing retard I'm able to run 13 psi (actually map converted to more like 12.75 or something) with no ping Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 No matter how much fuel you're able to throw at the motor (well, within reason, sure you could just run it rich enough to belch black smoke and barely make any power at all with MS and big enough injectors), 13psi w/o an intercooler is just too HOT, and you are probably right at the edge of possibly damaging your engine. But I suppose it's possible with enough fuel and a huge cut in timing advance to keep it from pinging, but by that point I'd think you'd actually be losing power compared to if you just turned it down to 10psi and leaned it out and advanced timing some. Almost everyone who is knowledgeable about turbos seems to agree that 10psi is the maximum boost you can safely run without an intercooler or some other form of cooling like water injection, or cutting timing and richening the mixture so much as to lose power. Again, you seem to be VERY lucky with that motor of yours. Another question though, what injectors are you running? Stock injectors are only good to support so much power... I've always figured (and been under the impression from others) that the reason the stock EFI starts to lean out on top at around 9-10psi is not because of the ECU or whatever, but because the stock injectors just can't flow enough to support any more airflow. So I would think, if you're running stock injectors, that it wouldn't matter if you were running Megasquirt, or stock EFI or whatever, you can't 'squeeze' more fuel out of the injectors than they are rated to flow, unless that 'squeeze' is in the form of higher fuel pressure (which is how I made almost 240rwhp with them, and even then it was still at the edge of safe air fuel by 5500rpm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 12, 2005 Author Share Posted September 12, 2005 when I dyno'd I had the stock injectors in place, with megasquirt I am running DSM 450cc's, as for max safe boost I think the 10psi rule is due to the lean condition at top, when I dynod I had the base pressure way up with a rising rate FPR and still went lean and right about 10 psi it started to ping, once I got the MSnS I started turing up the boost and on a hot day at about 14 psi it pings so I backed it off a touch The combustion chamber is a bad design but the Bosch L Jetronic is the bigger barrier in making power and running bigger boost levels, not only is peak so much better the better fuel/spark curve has really opened up midrange power, it's like driving a different car and yeah I am quite happy with my 183k mile junkyard motor, I was worried and the car I got it out of was burried in the back of the junkyard for who knows how long I intend to build a replacement block before I upgrade turbo and shoot for 400whp but thats gonna be a while yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted September 12, 2005 Share Posted September 12, 2005 Bastaad.. my green Z was running 25psi with no fmic, just a J-pipe. It had a Microtech standalone and alky injection, but still no FMIC. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evildky Posted September 12, 2005 Author Share Posted September 12, 2005 alcohol injection raises the octane of the intake charge as well as cooling it but still 25 psi is pretty impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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