Jump to content
HybridZ

Rerouted fuel lines?


rerouted fuel lines  

1 member has voted

  1. 1. rerouted fuel lines



Recommended Posts

And you want to leave your fuel lines close to heat so that you can set yourself up for vapor lock - why?

 

In my case I had two reasons for a fuel line reroute,

1) the lines would have literally been touching the passenger side exhaust header, and

2) the LS1 fuel rail inlet was at the back and on the drivers side so it was logical to come up and across the firewall.

On a carburated car I can see why you'd want something closer to the stock Nissan routing but heat and fuel just aren't compatible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would re-route, we did for other reasons, running 1/2 fuel in and a 3/8 return. Be sure to use aluminum fuel line. It is not hard to do, and it is better. I ran 3 lines total, 2 1/2 inch and 1 3/8. ou will need a flaring tool and tube seal nuts and ferrels. Be sure to tape up the fuel line before running to keep trash out of the lines.

 

john

 

Who has rerouted the fuel lines like the JTR book shows?

Is this really nessecary? couldnt i just make a heat sheild?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced mine with 3/8" feed and 5/16" return but routed them down the tunnel in basically the same location as the stock lines until they entered the engine bay then re-routed along the firewall to feed my LT1 fuel rails. The connection points are at the back of the engine.

I used stainless brake line from NAPA with short lengths of high pressure rubber at each end with AN fittings.

I'd replace your stock lines to provide more capacity and eliminate the old corroded lines.

 

Wheelman

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For now I have left mine as is on my 76 280Z. However, I may run new lines in the near future. I have to do my homework first.

 

Also another important thing to note is that the 240Z and the 280Z have the fuel lines running in two different locations. The 240 from my understanding has the lines running down the transmission tunnel while the 280 has the lines running along side the passenger side frame rail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest tony78_280z

from the mechanical pump my lines run the motor's stock lines (up behind the alternator) from there I sliced the aluminum lines and run rubber into my holley carb. I will probably route something else in the future, but I got alot of other projects to tackle first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might be way off here but I don't think one has to flare anything. Why doesn't anyone use a Swagelock style fittings http://www.swagelok.com/?

 

I work in the research science feild and we use them on everything everywhere and so do the rest of the labs around the world, hell our parent company even manufacturs them.

 

Come to think of it I've used them in my 280 to fix some bad lines for a few years now.

 

Isk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Swagelock stuff is great but they use their own thread size and it is expensive. Plus you can only find it at industrial supply places. They do have a few pipe thread adapters but try pricing a tap and die set for swagelock. Of course if you have access to it for free.......well that's another story, otherwise it costs more that AN style fittings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from the mechanical pump my lines run the motor's stock lines (up behind the alternator) from there I sliced the aluminum lines and run rubber into my holley carb. I will probably route something else in the future, but I got alot of other projects to tackle first.

 

Man, i went to your site in your signature, very good tips, its added to my list

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Isn't the third one actually a vent for the gas tank?

 

Look and see where it goes. It should go to a vacuum operated switch so that the gas tank overflow is vented to the crankcase when the engine is off, and the intake manifold when the engine is running.

 

At least that is how I remember it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have ceramic coated headers, that cuts the heat a little, but I left the lines in the stock location, I did move the pass side brake line to on top of the rail instead of on the side. I made a shield but took it off 'cause I didn't like how it looked.

 

I am running 15+ psi from an external "Carter" pump to the regulator in front of the tower on the pass side with stock lines then regulated down to 5.5 psi for the carb. That way if I drop a few psi in the 5/16" lines, it won't matter. I have WOT for a good 5 seconds in 5th and no lack of fuel. No vapor lock because where the heat is, there is no suction, only 15+ psi of pressure, not a worry. And the pump is as low as it can go. Noisey though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wanted to run another line for fuel delivery and use the stock 3/8" line on my 240Z for a return line for EFI.

 

The stock lines on the 240Z (brake and fuel) run up in the tunnel. With the Tremec 5spd, this gets very tight. I ran the new 1/2" AL line along my frame rail (subframe connector) below the floor, on the inside of the frame rail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

there is no return line on my edelbrock carb (1406 model) i just need to make sure that i regulate fuel pressure down to 6psi. i guess on my 240z, the larger line is the fuel inlet and the other two smaller ones are fuel return and vent line. i should be able to remove the two smaller lines. with that in mind, what would be the best way to vent the gas tank? vented gas cap?

 

thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...