Lunar240z Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 This question is for people who have shaved their drip molding. Are there any prolems that arrive from this? leaks or anything? Because i think the car would look a lot cleaner without the drip molding. [plus mine was dented on the passenger side] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mayolives Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 My buddy has shaved the molding on his 240 and at really look "clean". IMHO, the function of this molding was to prevent water from entering into the car when it was in motion, with the window down. Water does blow into his car now that the strip has been removed but only with the window down. Not a big deal, but you ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240hoke Posted September 23, 2005 Share Posted September 23, 2005 it does look cleaner, and besides a little water never hurt anybody I will say though that the job isnt fun at all. When you cut off the drip rail you must weld back the seam. For me this was very hard, the metal is very thin and wouldnt weld clean. I had to weld and grind about three times before i was satisfied and had a soild weld... not much fun at all... but id say its worth it. Heres a picture: sooo... 1.) Pull off chrome strip 2.) Cut pinch seam off leaving a little lip 3.) tack weld the seam every couple inches 4.) Weld the thing up (remember to melt the factory leading out in the windshield seam and c-pillar seam) 5.) Grind it, bondo it 6.) paint it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73TPIZ Posted September 24, 2005 Share Posted September 24, 2005 Dang 240hoke, that thing is beeeaaauuutiful. And i second and third your post. Did it, cussed it, and now love it. I wish i'd left more lip to weld to (that was a beach) and just brought the filler an 1/8" further out. Live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted September 24, 2005 Share Posted September 24, 2005 Austin, that car is beautiful, it's like....dipped in candy (smack lips) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rudypoochris Posted September 24, 2005 Share Posted September 24, 2005 Does putting bondo their create cracking issues? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VRJoe Posted September 24, 2005 Share Posted September 24, 2005 What I did when it shaved the drip rails was to cut a 2-3 inch section out with a cut-off wheel leaving about 1/8 inch lip. I then put a few notches in the lip with the cut-off tool. I tack welded in the notches to make sure the seam held. I cut out sections in a random pattern so that the seam would not get warped. In other words I took the first section out of the middle, the next from the front then the back ......... Once the complete rail was shaved I put a bead the full length of the seam. I then ground it smooth leaving the 1/8 inch lip. At least i thought it was smooth. Amazing what a shot of primer shows. After a quick trip to Harbor Freight I bought the longest file I could find and set to work smoothing the edge with that. A long process, much longer then I expected, but well worth it. I blended the lip into the roof with Bondo, but since then I've found out the Marglass might have been better. I love the way it came out, well worth the effort. - Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted September 24, 2005 Share Posted September 24, 2005 My method was very close with VRJoe's method. I did the "sectional approach" on the first side. When I went around and did the other side, I chose to weld it all at one time. I did that after I realized that none of gap spread apart as I cut it, and that no warping was taking place as I welded it (on the first side that I did). I also left a very shallow lip (welding bead) as well to allow a good weld. If you grind it flush with the surrounding surface, then you may weaken the weld. Then the usual bodywork after that. The biggest PITA was the OEM lead filler used at the bottom and top of the A pillar and C pillar. This will interfer with the welding process, so it must be cleaned out (which I did by cranking up the amperage of the welder and melting it out from around the weld area) Windows must be up during rain and washing (even a little crack can let water in), but it does clean up the car a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted September 25, 2005 Share Posted September 25, 2005 ...Windows must be up during rain and washing (even a little crack can let water in), but it does clean up the car a lot! Really?!? Sorry, Terry, I couldn't resist. I nearly laughed out loud when I read that last comment, but I do know what you mean I also have shaved rails Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VRJoe Posted September 25, 2005 Share Posted September 25, 2005 Yep, I followed Terry's advice when I went to shave my drip rails. I left a bit larger lip then he did (about 1/8 inch) to make sure the seam held together and as a way of making sure the edge was straight (slide a 1/8 piece of bar stock against the roof and grind until you touch it). I also figured it would give a slight amount of rain protection, but after years of testing on multiple vehicles I have found that no matter how big the drip rail, is the interior always gets wet when I leave the windows down in the rain . - Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted September 25, 2005 Share Posted September 25, 2005 Where am I going to store my chewing when I tire of chewing ? http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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