Here comes trouble Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=449a.jpg&.src=ph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 Trim ring http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=2c78.jpg&.src=ph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 more bead roller and trim ring photos----scroll to bottom http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/album?.dir=8223&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//photos.yahoo.com/ph//my_photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 3, 2005 Author Share Posted November 3, 2005 The bead roller is made from regular Vice Grips TM with slightly concave Jaws. Theadjustable jaws will maintain an exact pinch to the trim ring bead. Wire welded to the top jaw is a Datsun L 6 hex socket head bolt end. Welded to the lower jaw is a section of 1 1/4" 0D stainless steel pipe which has a thickness of 1/8 inch. The head bolt end and pipe section was rounded and polished before and after welding to prevent any later scratching to the trim ring surface during bead rolling. As you can see the curve of the pipe section is higher at the back of the jaws while the front portion is almost level to the front of the jaws. Further fitting was done after welding as I test pinched the aluminum trim ring and finished ground and polished the pipe section until the tool left no marks or scratches on the aluminum. At this point the final polishing and grinding adjustment to the pipe section allowed the tool to actually remove prior scratches. The success of this tool will rest in the fitting ,rounding and polishing of the head bolt end and stainless pipe section. Stainless steel was chosen for it's work hardening properties and the the head bolt end is quality hardened tool steel. After welding quench-dump in water to insure hardness GTO project thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102048 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 So you formed the ring cross section shape by using your tool to clamp it into shape, bit by bit? Great work, looks like a bought one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
y-not Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 I might have to get off my lazy *** and fit the headlight covers on my 250 GTO. Then make the rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted November 3, 2005 Share Posted November 3, 2005 Dang Larry (it is Larry, right?)!. That's impressive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted November 4, 2005 Share Posted November 4, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 4, 2005 Author Share Posted November 4, 2005 The vice grip idea came from a Eastwood catalog "vice grip" panel flanging tool I successfully copied years ago. I have the Harbour Freight flange, shear and bead roller but it is too big for the trim rings and too awkward. The trim rings are not an original GTO style due to the placement of the fasteners. Small button head stainless fastners seems probable since I used them on the tal light rings. The head light trim rings are held in place with 4 scews presently but for a good fit 8 will be required with embedded nuts underneath the headlight bucket. I am already wanting to make new tail light rings with a larger diameter outside edge to "roll" for a better finished look. I plan to make a one piece grille opening trim ring with a rolled edge also. I just wish that I could successfully find a way cut stainless steel (and I tried almost every thing). It can be cut but at an expense $$$$$$$. Terry... coming from you a compliment is always an honor....I have this idea to construct a fiberglass panaterra hatch using mostly the rear deck glass as the initial mold for the deck portion and inside sail panels to maintain a curved appearance in line with the curved GTO body shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 [url']http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=8223&.dnm=449a.jpg&.src=ph[/url] Great idea on the custom tool!! I have to try that for my rear window trim and headlight trim rings too:) What gauge stainless steel did you use for trim rings? Thanx! Chelle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Here comes trouble Posted November 9, 2005 Author Share Posted November 9, 2005 Chelle....16 guage ..aluminum............. I found no practical way to cut stainless steel except with a band saw which will cut the outside edge easily with a 1/2 inch blade following a scribed mark on layout dye (Dyekem Blue).but the inside edge would need 1/4 to 3/8 " wide blade with an entry cut to the inside....plasma cut stainless steel maybe the option..I am looking for someone to cut steel camber plates on a plasma table.... I did not use the air or electric powered shears that are avaiable. I have the cutting shear dies on the large Harbour Freight bead roller but it's recomended capacity is 18 guage which about all cutting tools are for to that (18 guage) maximum........... For window trim, you could possibly step the guage thickness down and weld back any band saw entry cut that was made into the inside edge. You can gain fairly precise cuts with lay out dye and use small grinding discs, sanding drums and hand files to true precisely after the bandsaw cut. I have not given up on stainle$$ but ran out of money finding a way to cut it... it work hardens rapidly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zwknhmr Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 The bead roller is made from regular Vice Grips TM with slightly concave Jaws. Theadjustable jaws will maintain an exact pinch to the trim ring bead. Wire welded to the top jaw is a Datsun L 6 hex socket head bolt end. Welded to the lower jaw is a section of 1 1/4" 0D stainless steel pipe which has a thickness of 1/8 inch. The head bolt end and pipe section was rounded and polished before and after welding to prevent any later scratching to the trim ring surface during bead rolling. As you can see the curve of the pipe section is higher at the back of the jaws while the front portion is almost level to the front of the jaws. Further fitting was done after welding as I test pinched the aluminum trim ring and finished ground and polished the pipe section until the tool left no marks or scratches on the aluminum. At this point the final polishing and grinding adjustment to the pipe section allowed the tool to actually remove prior scratches. The success of this tool will rest in the fitting ,rounding and polishing of the head bolt end and stainless pipe section. Stainless steel was chosen for it's work hardening properties and the the head bolt end is quality hardened tool steel. After welding quench-dump in water to insure hardness GTO project thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=102048 Hello here comes trouble. Haven`t seen anything from you in a while. I would like to see the pictures of your headlight ring bead roller again. The pictures from your original post aren`t available anymore. Thank you for your trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 page and pictures not found.. or bad links =( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdizzy204 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 thread is 4 years old. thats probably why the links dont work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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