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I've got some new toys... (triple mikunis, etc.)


Sleeper-Z

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hey guys,

 

So i've gone to pick up some parts yesterday, here's what i got:

Triple Mikuni's 44's taper bored to 50 with air filter assembly

an array of mikuni jets and rebuild parts

also a carb synchrometer

a couple of starters

some driveshafts

a couple of drive axles

2 heads (one's an e30)

a couple of tail lights

a couple of valve covers

an r180 diff (don't know what i'm going to do with this, maybe temporary)

an aluminum dash with switches for the car

triple gauge set for the above dash

a couple of cams (not shown; inside that ammo box)

an old school racing clutch (brand new)

also have various odds and ends, 280z strut tubes, control arms and what not

 

just waiting on some more money to buy the rest of the stuff: isky cams, old school brand-new electramotive high comp pistons, 2 or 3 l28 blocks, a 4 speed tranny, and a 5 speed tranny that needs to be rebuilt :).

 

all comments welcome;

cheers!

steven m.

 

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=8734036&uid=3266090&members=1

please click on link to view more pics

 

hopefully she'll be on the track by next fall/winter!

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I've got similar Carbs on my L28. It is my first time with them, and I brought the car home for the first time last night. Anything you learn, I'd be happy to hear about.

 

They look almost identical to yours in layout, although the casing is slightly different.

 

Mine are also 44's but are a bit older....they still have Solex AND Mikuni stamped on them.

 

The engine runs great under throttle....but going from part throttle to full quickly results in a bit of hesitation before it comes up. My dad's '67 Stingray did the same thing...so I'm assuming its normal for Carb'd cars?

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thanks guys for the comments.

 

let's see, i got the parts from a good buddy that literally had no time for em'. most of the parts are over 15 years old or older (probably older than me) and are in new or like new condition. the carbs used to be raced, and in that class 44mm was the max, but was bored out to get some power; not part of the rules, but was a risk they took.

 

i've just fallen into luck in the past couple of months.

 

as far as these carbs, it will be my first time experience, but i'm just the driver and funder of the z car; my brother is my main mechanic/engineer and will be doing all the technicals, i tend to over think things when it comes to engines so i'll just focus on racing.

 

i haven't had seat time in years (i definately need it) and will be probably campaigning just locally and for fun with my other good friends e30 318is that me and my brother have worked on for him. i can always start autocrossing the mini s that my bro has, but FWD isn't for me!

 

hopefully this february the motor will be running, and by next fall/winter the suspension and brakes should be done and i will be competing locally here in houston and will be doing a couple of time trials at texas world speedway.

 

thanks for the comments, more welcome!

i always dreamed of having triple mikuni's, and this time around, i vowed to never sell this z-car unless i really needed to so i'll have her for awhile.

 

thanks,

steven m.

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Hey all, are the carbs with the fuel inlet on the side of the carb old style or new style? I've got a set of 44's that I'm rebuilding for a winter project and hope to unvail them in the spring. They have the inlet on the top. I know squat about Mikuni carbs, this is the first Mikuni set up I've worked on. Question, any chance you sell jets and such, I'll need to tune them sooner or later? Very nice grab bag of parts though.

Mike

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The engine runs great under throttle....but going from part throttle to full quickly results in a bit of hesitation before it comes up. My dad's '67 Stingray did the same thing...so I'm assuming its normal for Carb'd cars?

It's a common problem and has been discussed before, search and you'll find several threads about this issue.

 

As to these "bored" carbs, I don't think they are. Boring carbs was done back in the day and How to Modify book shows some examples. However, all side draft carbs have a taper to the bore. I don't recall what the taper is on the Mikunis and I dont' want to take my velocity stacks off to verify what it really is, but I do seem to recall someone here thought they had larger carbs than they actually did because they were measuring the filter end rather than the manifold end of the carbs. I think that person thought he had 50 Webers, and it turned out they were 45's. Regardless, the hole on the outside end of the carb should be larger than the inside.

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Here's a page from TWM's site. They list air horns for Mikunis, and although the different measurements aren't listed, I think it's pretty safe to say that A=diameter of the hole in the air horn, B= length of the horn, and C=the OD of the end of the horn. According to this the air horn end of a 44 measures 48mm, and a the air horn end of a 40 is 44 mm.

 

http://www.twminduction.com/AirHorn/AirHorn-FR.html

 

OOPS, link doesn't go to the right page. Click on Mikuni in the menu on left to see the page I was referring to.

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i'll take measurements on them... i've bought these from an old racer who bought these from an old racing team "back in the day"; and am just going by what he told me.

 

edit: inlet of the air horn is 53mm... will post pic in a minute after i find my camera cord

 

It's a common problem and has been discussed before' date=' search and you'll find several threads about this issue.

 

As to these "bored" carbs, I don't think they are. Boring carbs was done back in the day and How to Modify book shows some examples. However, all side draft carbs have a taper to the bore. I don't recall what the taper is on the Mikunis and I dont' want to take my velocity stacks off to verify what it really is, but I do seem to recall someone here thought they had larger carbs than they actually did because they were measuring the filter end rather than the manifold end of the carbs. I think that person thought he had 50 Webers, and it turned out they were 45's. Regardless, the hole on the outside end of the carb should be larger than the inside.[/quote']

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I found this site tonight....

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/carbid.html

...might help.

 

I've been looking for the "triples take me to school" thread I've read so much about in my searches....but no luck finding as of yet. Edit...not quite sure why it didn't come up in the other searches...but

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=79723&highlight=triple+school

 

I had the car running great yesterday...but now the idle's down and its starting to spit again......

 

 

Hey all' date=' are the carbs with the fuel inlet on the side of the carb old style or new style? I've got a set of 44's that I'm rebuilding for a winter project and hope to unvail them in the spring. They have the inlet on the top. I know squat about Mikuni carbs, this is the first Mikuni set up I've worked on. Question, any chance you sell jets and such, I'll need to tune them sooner or later? Very nice grab bag of parts though.

Mike[/quote']

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We will be selling our Mikuni 44 phh triples setup early next year when we do our turbo upgrade. Dont know a price yet, but it will include the carbs, TWM intake drilled for nitrous nozzles, linkage, air horns and K&N filters and extra set of jets. These things scream and have never had to re-tune them in over 8K miles.

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Looks like I missed this thread, but better late than never. It was fairly common to taper bore the 44's back in the day. They would actually machine the venturi into the carb. The outlet was still 44mm, but from what I hear they would then flow pretty close to 50's. This was their way of getting around the rules. It technically wasn't illegal when they first started doing it, but from what the late Dave Weber (from Malvern Racing) told me, when the tech guys saw it for the first time they freaked. Now 50's are legal in GT2 anyways.

 

You can still have it done today...at $600 a carb. I spoke with Todd, at Wolf Creek Racing, about this. He said the machine shop he goes to simply raised the price because it's a major PITA to machine them, and they didn't want to do it anymore.

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Looks like I missed this thread' date=' but better late than never. It was fairly common to taper bore the 44's back in the day. They would actually machine the venturi into the carb. The outlet was still 44mm, but from what I hear they would then flow pretty close to 50's. This was their way of getting around the rules. It technically wasn't illegal when they first started doing it, but from what the late Dave Weber (from Malvern Racing) told me, when the tech guys saw it for the first time they freaked. Now 50's are legal in GT2 anyways.

 

You can still have it done today...at $600 a carb. I spoke with Todd, at Wolf Creek Racing, about this. He said the machine shop he goes to simply raised the price because it's a major PITA to machine them, and they didn't want to do it anymore.[/quote']

 

WOW. $600/carb, that's insane. glad i picked these babies up. thanks for more info, i love to hear about history on these z's, although i'm not a purist, i'm slowly starting to turn into one, as far as building an early race-inspired one.

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I have a set of the Mikuni's in my garage. If you need any parts for them contact Robello Racing in the bay area (San Fransicso). Great find

 

 

I got my set when I bought a 240z from a friends tow yard. I cound'nt get the hood open but I gave my friend dad 150.00 for the car. I took it home cut the latch and found the carbs. Was I suprised, these are great carbs.

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I have a set of the Mikuni's in my garage. If you need any parts for them contact Robello Racing in the bay area (San Fransicso). Great find

 

 

I got my set when I bought a 240z from a friends tow yard. I cound'nt get the hood open but I gave my friend dad 150.00 for the car. I took it home cut the latch and found the carbs. Was I suprised' date=' these are great carbs.[/quote']

 

sounds like a hell of a deal.

 

here's more toys:

BRAND NEW electramotive pistons and autometer tach with memory. I guess they would be called, new old stock.

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