71 240 w/ stroked 383 LT1 and Procharger D1

[Darius]

.So who wants to know about that BLACK,BAD ASS ,BLOWN, INJECTED,GASSED,NOS POWERED, 5000HP, TUBULAR SWINGARM 240Z. Actualy a lot of the stuff I hear about my car is not true, no big deal . I have owned the car for about 7 years now,and no it doesnt have tubular control arms. I ordered them from arizona z car and he told me 2 weeks and after 3 months he still hadnt delivered. I did have a NOS bottle in the hatch but it was never finished because the blower was giving me so much trouble.With the swing arms I ended up with new factory pieces. The car has a 96LT1 motor with 6spd, 1990 300z twin turbo rear end with 3:73 gears, ground control camber plates all the way around with 3 degr -camber in front and 2 in the back.It has a 1 1/8 bar up front with a 7/8ths in the back. I had a perfectly running Lt1 till I put on a pro charger kit with the 600b.The car ran good for about a week and then it blew a head gasket #8 cylinder.I pulled both heads just in case there was damage to the other gasket,there wasnt.Back on the road for one more week and blew the gasket again in the same spot,again I replaced both gasket,I felt like I was working in the pits of a top fuel team.Even when I was blowing gaskets I still was running 30lb inj for 8lbs of boost with paxton fuel pump and FMU which raises fuel pressure from 35 to 80, procharger told me that 22lb inj were more than adequete.The car ran ok but not like it did before it first blew the head gasket.I drove the car to LA Z show about 750 miles round trip for me.When I left the show I laid rubba down the street totally forgeting about the 2 motorcycle cops I had seen earlier at the show.When I was done layin rubba I look in the rear view and seen the red and blues. Before we left the show my friend put a piss on ford sticker on my back window.When I finnally pulled over the cops were extremely mad at me as I had layd rubba first thru third right in front of them.After talking to the officer he informed me both he and his buddy were dy hard ford fans and both owned musatags,I tore that stupid sticker off my car, kissed some major ass and got off with a seat belt ticket,even though me and the cop knew I was wearing the belt. About a week after returning from LA I could tell my motor was hurt, as it was blowing smoke and oil out the valve cover breather. I took the blower off which only had about 3000 miles on it,and tore down the motor.It had 4 broken pistons.Before the blower the motor had 300 rwhp and ran 12.3 at 112. I only ran the car one day at the track with the blower,but it was already hurt.It ran a best of 12.1 at 118. It hooked up 10 times better without the blower. My 60 foot times were 1.8 without 2.2 to 2.4 with it. You can only go so fast with 235/40/17 yokahama avs. I rebuilt the motor with a COLA crakshaft capable off 1000hp or 10,000rpm, it is 4130 rod throws have been drilled,it is a very nice crank for $1000.I Installed splayed 4 bolt main caps eagle rods,venolia blower pistons which lowered comp to 8to1.I also o ringed the block and put copper head gaskets. Comp cams recomended a cam that was suitable for my application,and I put on a 1000cfm throttle body.It also has crane gold roller rockers/1.6 ratio,and stud girdles,but the heads are stock.I ran the motor for a couple weeks to break it in with 30lb injectors. It felt faster than it was when it was stock and it only has 8to1 comp.Once I felt it was broken in I put on the 600b with a new 12 rib setup for 15lbs of boost. I had to put 42lb inj, I also ran another fuel picup to my fuel safe pro cell,2 paxton pumps 2 6an fuel lines into the fuel rail ,one on each side,I got a SPEARCO intercooler measureing 28by12.I thought it was dialed in. I could finally make it so it was to rich.I adjusted it properly after a few runs and was ready to really get on it.1st Gear is useless,so is second third gear hooks butt will still smokem if you want. The car felt really fast. After about four times of gettin on 1st thru 5th the wimpy little 600b blew up with 3000 miles on it. I must say that dealing with ATI procharger can be very FRUSTRATING!!!. They wanted $1400 to fix,1900 for new or 800 for used,and my blower had no warranty because of the 15lb pulley,if you ever buy a 600b only run 8lbs and buy the $35 warranty, if you want to run big boost look for the D series. After a lot of haggling they finally sold me a D-1 with a bracket and belt for $2200,to bad after all that talking with them about my LT1 they sent me a D-1 with a mustang bracket and no manual or instuctions at all. I tried to have them fax me some instructions butt they said it was a hole book that they couldnt fax and that they would send it to me, when I called the next week to check up the GIRL I spoke to had completly forgotten about me. I still did not know I had a mustang bracket all I knew is that it looked totally diffrent than the 600b bracket,the guy I spoke to next time told me that he could fax me, and when he did I realized that I had the wrong stuff.He sent me the LT1 D-1 bracket but no belt tensioner and no belt. I have had the D-1 for a month and a half and still do not have what I need to finish.Maybe this week I'll get the tensioner and the belt.I thought I'd set the facts straight about my 240,Oh the valve covers are fitted by using the GM center bolt adapter kit.Any questions you can e-mail darius_khashabi@hotmail.com

[Drax240z]

Hey thanks for all the info on your car. Its really a beauty. (and adorning my desktop now) Just wondering if you have a webpage of your own with your car and specs and so on on it. Welcome to hybridz.org either way!

 

 

 

------------------

Drax240z

1973 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way!

http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

[Guest Anonymous]

I wish to post an apology to all of you hard core Z fans for having to put up with me bashing on a non-z owning member. I also would like to say that I was not posting about lies said about Darius's car. But the lies that WERE there have been cleaned up and my work is done.

 

 

Sargon Henderson

87 mustang. newly assembled 302, Vortech T-trim, TFS heads, cobra intake, etc. etc. etc. Built with my own 2 hands!

 

[This message has been edited by slo5oh (edited September 10, 2000).]

[Mikelly]

Thanks to everyone for cleaning this thread up...

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

[Guest Anonymous]

In 94+ LT1 motors their is a diagonal cut across the top of the intake

manifold that fits the crossover between the fuel rails. From the pictures

at the link, there doesn't appear to be a crossover tube, so I

can only presume that it's a 92/93 intake manifold. It's kind of odd that

someone would put that intake on a later model motor, but I guess it is

possible, much like the centerbolt-sidebolt valve cover conversion that was

done on the heads. So you're running either an OBDI PCM from a

94/95 car or the OBDII PCM from the 96/97 (it makes a big difference).

 

 

I rebuilt the motor with a COLA crakshaft capable off 1000hp or 10,000rpm,

it is 4130 rod throws have been drilled,it is a very nice crank for $1000.

 

It's a nice piece, but unfortunately Cola has gone belly up. The crank will

not hold up to 10k RPM, and it might take 1000HP for short periods of time,

but I wouldn't bet on it.

 

Do you know what rod length you are using?

 

 

I Installed splayed 4 bolt main caps eagle rods,

 

 

Good for a high-reving motor. Over-kill on a block that will stay under 6500 RPM, which most blower motors do.

 

venolia blower pistons which lowered comp to 8to1.

 

 

Not a chance in hell with stock heads. The dish would have to be way to

large for any reasonable piston design. Remember that stock LT1 heads have

53-54cc chambers.

 

 

I also o ringed the block and put copper head gaskets.

 

 

Which would increase the compression because the only copper gaskets

available for the LT1 have a crush height of .043 compared to the stock LT1

head gasket crush height of .049 (I use the same gaskets on my motor,

though I've o-ringed the heads and receiver grooved the block)

 

 

Comp cams recomended a cam that was suitable for my application

 

 

Any more info? When I talked to CC they recommended a CC306 frilled on a

114 for my 396 with 16 psi. This is a huge cam and won't pass emissions,

but it makes great power. So what cam did you end up with?

 

 

,and I put on a 1000cfm throttle body.

 

 

Pointless. Maybe a couple of HP with the blower motor. I run the BBK 1000

CFM TB now, too, but only because my modded stock TB broke and it was

cheaper to get the 58mm TB (which my intake had also been modded for). Dyno

results didn't change, nor did boost levels.

 

 

It also has crane gold roller rockers/1.6 ratio,and stud girdles,but the

heads are stock.

 

 

Rockers are good. Did you also upgrade the springs? The stock springs are

much too weak if you're spinning the motor over 5800 rpm.

 

I ran the motor for a couple weeks to break it in with 30lb injectors.

 

 

Dangerous thing to do. 30's were too small when I was running a 355.

 

It felt faster than it was when it was stock and it only has 8to1 comp.

 

 

Once again, this is not an 8:1 motor. If the block hasn't been decked, with

the copper gaskets, .040 over, 4.155 head gasket bore size, and standard

measurements for everything else you would need a 41cc dish to get the

compression down to 8:1. I know what my custom JE pistons with a 30cc dish

look like. with the pin already in the oil ring. A 41cc piston would be

incredibly difficult to make and it wouldn't be reliable.

 

It is absolutely critical that you find out what the actual CR of this motor

is. If you try to run 15 PSI with a motor that's actually 10:1 you'll blow

it up pretty quickly.

 

Once I felt it was broken in I put on the 600b with a new 12 rib setup for

15lbs of boost. I had to put 42lb inj, I also ran another fuel picup to my

fuel safe pro cell,2 paxton pumps 2 6an fuel lines into the fuel rail ,one

on each side,I got a SPEARCO intercooler measureing 28by12.I thought it

was dialed in. I could finally make it so it was to rich.I adjusted it

properly after a few runs and was ready to really get on it.

 

 

What made you decide it was ready to run? I notice that the pictures show

one ATI FMU mounted on the firewall. Is there a 2nd one hidden somewhere,

or have they been removed completely? (which is the way to go) but the car

would need a good PCM tune to not blow up. What are your O2 numbers like at

WOT, and what tool are using to get this info?

 

 

1st Gear is useless,so is second third gear hooks butt will still smokem

if you want. The car felt really fast.

 

 

It should feel fast given that you're at least 800 lbs lighter than any

f-body LT1.

 

After about four times of gettin on 1st thru 5th the wimpy little 600b

blew up with 3000 miles on it. I must say that dealing with ATI

procharger can be very FRUSTRATING!!!. They wanted $1400 to fix,1900 for

new or 800 for used,and my blower had no warranty because of the 15lb

pulley,if you ever buy a 600b only run 8lbs and buy the $35 warranty, if

you want to run big boost look for the D series. After a lot of haggling

they finally sold me a D-1 with a bracket and belt for $2200,to bad after

all that talking with them about my LT1 they sent me a D-1 with a mustang

bracket and no manual or instuctions at all. I tried to have them fax me

some instructions butt they said it was a hole book that they couldnt fax

and that they would send it to me, when I called the next week to check

up the GIRL I spoke to had completly forgotten about me. I still did not

know I had a mustang bracket all I knew is that it looked totally

diffrent than the 600b bracket,the guy I spoke to next time told me that

he could fax me, and when he did I realized that I had the wrong stuff.He

sent me the LT1 D-1 bracket but no belt tensioner and no belt. I have had

the D-1 for a month and a half and still do not have what I need to

finish.Maybe this week I'll get the tensioner and the belt.I thought I'd

set the facts straight about my 240,Oh the valve covers are fitted by

using the GM center bolt adapter kit

 

 

Can't argue with what you're saying about the P600 and I'm sorry to hear

about your problems getting the D1 ready to go. It will make a huge amount

of difference. Do you have a boost guage? You really need to know what kind of boost you're seeing, and a fuel pressure gauge would be useful, too.

 

1. 8:1 is too low for compression. You're gas mileage will suck, and throttle response will be abysmal down low. Shoot for at least 9.2-9.4:1

 

2. The stock heads are perfectly fine with 15 PSI of boost. You'll blow headgaskets if the deck isn't flat or the heads are warped. If neither of those conditions exist, you'll be fine.

 

3. Stock heads are going to kill your horsepower. If you can afford it, at least have the heads pocket ported and install larger valves. Shouldn't run more than ~$600, but will probably be worth ~ 60 HP

 

Look at it this way; the stock motor in 96 makes 275 BHP, roughly .785 HP/ci. Going to 383 ci would add 26 BHP just for the displacement change, if you do nothing else. So that gives you 301 BHP. The boost rule of thumb is 14 BHP per PSI, so 15 psi would seem to give you 210 additional BHP, making it 511 BHP. But dropping the compression costs you about 30 BHP per point, so going all the way down to 8:1 would cost you ~75 BHP, giving you a grand total of 436 BHP or around 370 RWHP for an M6; 349 for an A4.

 

Good luck, hope some of this helps.

 

 

[This message has been edited by Dsantel (edited September 12, 2000).]

[Darius]

Here are some more facts for all those that like to presume things,and state false facts about my 240.There is a cross over tube in the intake manifold in plain sight in the pics,and houses a return fuel line.It is a 93 computer which is speed density,not that obd 2 r2d2 crap.Non drilled and lightened COLA cranks go for $700+.Stated specs say 1000hp 1oooorpm.Obviosly im not trying to go any where near those numbers,and the same goes for the splayed main caps,but when building a blower motor especially you can never go wrong making it too strong.5.7 inch rod 30.over 3.75 stroke.2 boost gauges,one before intercooler one after in manifold.Im not worrying about emmisions my car is a 72 and exempt from all that B.S.Cam is a LT1 276 hr-14 at .050 int 220 exh 230 gross valve lift .510.comp cam springs 986-16.Only 1 fmu. How many do you need? Fuel pressure gage autometer ultralight.My stock motor at the rear wheels with headers and single 3 1/2 exh put out 300hp and 325 torque.With 8 lbs of boost should see well into 400s.With new cam complete rebuild going to all billet parts,pumped out to 383 bigger inj 58mm TB manifold sized to fit it 15lbs of boost bigger intercooler, dual 3inch mandrel bent 2 chamer flows.Reburnt chip for 42lb inj,you think I'm going to see less power than before.I'll say like that guy told Cahant "your nuts"

[Mikelly]

OK guys, Maybe I have missed something here. I sense a bit of animosety coming out in some of these posts. Dude, your car is a rolling work of art, and naturally people will speculate about internals and whatnot. As for the most previous posters comments about your internals and compression etc... Everyone has a hypothesis about engine building and what works vs. what doesn't. You know your car. You built it. If this version holds up, great good for you! Nice project, happy it turned out well for you. If it was wrong, then throw some more cash at it and do like the rest of us are doing... getting dirt under your nails and sort it out! Bottom line here is you have a common bond with the rest of us... you're among friends... drop the defenses and lets get on with the technical discussions!

 

Can't we all just get along???

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

[BLKMGK]

In ATIs defense - dude you grenaded 4 pistons! Yuo realize that the blower receives the same oil as th emotor right? If you blew a couple of head gaskets you may also have sent coolant laden oil through the blower. Tolerances on those suckers are REALLY tight, they don't like trash in the oil at all. 15lbs also sounds high for a P600 but I'd have to check specs. Honestly though the lb rating for various pullies is crap. What you care aboout is impeller speed. Overspeed a blower an not only will the air heat up but you risk bearing damage and impeller explosion - both of which can kill a motor. Boost is a measure of intake restriction, I pretty much laugh when someone brags they have more boost than someone else - a common Mustang thing. Put a more effecient intake on a car with a centrifigul blower, change nothing, and boost will go DOWN. Strangely - power will likely rise. Why is that? You're moving the same amount of air but there's no longer as much restriction. Suddenly your 18lb pulley is only making 12lbs and some folks get angry about that (sheesh).

 

The D series is supposed to be better. Better bearing support, stronger main shaft, etc. etc. but I have seen one D1 with bad seal problems. They replaced it after two seals blew and upon examination found a flaw in the build. That's pretty uncommon and was the last bad ATI blower I've seen. I personally liek the P series in that it didn't stick so far out to the side. If I'd done a D series on my Mustang I'd have had to cut the fender. As it is the P1200 fits fine and looks stock. Inlet hose is pinched near the frame with the wider motor but I may have that cut and boxed later

 

DO make sure you do NOT run a cog pulley - that's bad news. As for the idler - if you were looking for the spring loaded puppy that's an added cost option and they won't have sent it. I've got one on my Mustang and it weren't cheap! Go 12rib for sure if you haven't already - lot's less slip if you really psin that puppy.

 

Oh, the reason you were asked about FMUs was that you had said two pumps. Since he saw no crossover he figured each fed one side and that each had it's own return. Thus you'd need two of them. Personally - throw the FMUs in the trash, run the right size injectors, and have a program done for the car. FMUs are nothing but crap bandaids. Now that returnless fuel systems have begun showing up ATI and others are actually getting with it and burning custom chips. It's about time!

 

Most fuel pumps aren't made to deadhead and if you're seeing 80lbs+ that's what's happening. Injectors also have serious issues with those kinds of pressures. In short - super high fuel pressures is just plain crazy. Thank Vortech and Paxton for that "innovation", ATI followed suit. At least Paxton has started to sell some kits with add-on injectors, that was a start even if it did spray into a manifold meant to be kept dry.

 

Imagine blowing a fuel line at pressure, especially at 80+ WOT! Hell, I DID blow one off completely off of an injector at just 40PSI. Luckily the engine was stone cold and it was just being started - it blew fuel EVERYWHERE. Never again, I was almost a Challenger reenactment once already...

 

So, get that ATI on the road. When you get a chance I'd like to hear about the rear you swapped in. Lot's of us are having a heck of a time finding LSDs and your solution might be of interest.

 

P.S. 8:1 compression is darned low. You'll need big boost to really take advantageof it. Think D3 ferris wheel type blowers. 20+lbs and it's an ungodly ride. Friend is tuning one now - slowly. 600+hp at the rear wheels, has pegged his Autometer boost guage, twisted an input shaft, and blown a converter - all on the dyno 347 stroked 302 Ford too...

[pparaska]

Yes, please tell us how you swapped the R230 into the Z. That'd be a good topic to put in the Driveline Forum.

 

Sweet RIDE!

[jeromio]

Dunno why Mikelly came down on Darius for being defensive - hell I felt defensive after reading that Dsantel guy's post. He definately came off as "I know way more than you and boy did you spend alot of money screwing up your car". Not very friendly.

 

At any rate, I'm very curious about the details of this Z32 LSD swap. What kind of shafts were used?

 

Of course, noting the other intensely expensive mods on the car, it's probably a thing which lies well outside of my means. Nice to dream though....

[Guest Drewz]

Please lets get past all the overreactions. No one came down on Darius. Lets all stop this and get back to brass tax, CARS and FAST CARS. Let the past lie where it is, in the past. We all have a lot of other noteworhty topics to discuss. All a big misunderstanding. Darius, your car kicks ass, fact. This forum is excellent so lets get on with it. I am not saying anything with any hidden meanings to be misconstrued. No one should be upset with anyone else here so I would like to see this put to rest, no prejudices involved. Here's to a kick ass car and a forthcoming owner interested in the facts. Thanks!

 

 

------------------

The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!!

 

Drewz

[Darius]

WHAAZUUUPP !!! Ya that psantel guy got me going, butt thats all part of the game,Talkin **** about each others ride.I,m 26 years old, and I've been working on and racing datsuns since 15.First I had a 510 and 4 years later bought my z .All work on the car is done by me including paint.Of course I had my local machine shop do the machineing and building of the motor and they stand by it 100%,and reassured me of my comp ratio.When some guy wants to start to tell me what my car has I can get a little pissed,if he wants to ask me and get the real facts,thats OK.I've put it behind me,and will discuss something way better. The 300z twin turbo R230 limited slip that actually always lays posi even when putting down big power, makes the stock unit look like a peanut.I've always had R200's and when welded up 'locked' they were pretty strong exept for the half shafts, I must have broken 7 shafts in 6 months.Other v-8 Z owners I have talked to have had better luck than me but they had automatic transmissions whice are easyere on the drive train and definitly dont drive like me,I can drive very good,as I have logged roughly 20 track days in my 510 and my Z, at sears point,thunder hill,laguna seca,and also raced go karts,which is pretty crazy, and very competitive.Needless to say I'm usally very hard on my car and my shafts kept braking causing me some very scary moments.One time getting on it hard out of a turn in 2nd gear the road had a little dip which put downforce on car and bottomed out the suspension causing both shafts to grenade,needle bearings everywhere and procede to bang the **** out off underneath my car and take out both brake lines, remember no down shifting because my half shafts were no longer connected,thank god for an E brake,and a long enough strait away coming out of that turn.Mainly I broke them at sears point drag racing sometimes just one would break and could simply take it out at the track and drive home with 1 because the rear end was welded,can you say one legger 400hp V-8z, but it got me home.Enough of that something had to change so I went to Auto Gator in sacremento to check out what the twin turbo rear end looked like and to see if I thought it could fit in my car.It looked good, real good,its huge and has big c-v joints on the inboard side.I scored the unit with c-v joints and drive shaft just to use the flange,with the 3:73, ratio works perfect with the 6spd, $375 talk about 130 mph at 3000rpm,and with the charger it pulls in 6th gear, I'm pretty confident I have hit 160, and I know it will now go much faster I just dont know what will happen if I try to go faster, I just keep pictureing my car making like a 5000hp drag boat and flying into the air.I read in car n craft you only need 500hp to go 200mph in a 86-92 camaro,if that is the case my car should have the power to do it,but the Z is a very small car, and I know even with my rollcage and 5 points belts, I would be dead for sure if crashed at that speed,I have crashed very hard before and did a month in the hospital,hope to never crash that hard again,at least not my Z, maybe in a rental car when can be so much fun when you take it to the open track day and wear out the tires till there chunks missing out.Anyway you want to put a R230 in your z, very easy kinda pricy .You have to simply drill 2 more holes in the mustach bar and mount it at thr correct hieght,the higher the better so your joints won't have as xtreme of angle when you car is lowered.You will notice the drive shaft flange is off to left I believe if you are looking towards the back.You have to make sure your drive shaft will clear because the flange is quite large and has 6 big bolts holding it together,I think one half shaft is slightly shorter.Then you can weld on brackets of your choice from the rear mount of diff that hold the control arms on to the round holes with bushings in them pertruding out of the side of the diff.Now you have to make the C-Vs connect to stock stub axle,here's where it gets pricey because most likely you could do everything in the garage and should be easy and correct with the right measureing.But doing the rest requires the use of a quality drive line shop.I went thru concord drive line service which the owner russ let me keep my car in his shop while he built the shafts so he could take measurments.He is a very cool guy and always treated me very nice and let me use his tools, almost unheard of and I had just met this guy. He built my drive shaft,out of 3 inch tube and fit the R230 flange,the 300z c-v's turn into a splined axle,which has to be cut and welded to fit a much much larger spicer universal joint which also has a 4 bolt pattern just much bigger so an adapter plate was made to convert to the stub axle.I have banged many gears ,alot of launches,and ran more power and have had no problems.Anyway me and cahant will get together and take some more pics maybe of the blower/intercooler,or me just getting crazy sideways as this is what me and my car do best.I'm out

[pparaska]

Darius,

 

Thanks for the info on the R230 install.

It sounds like you have Z32 CV joints at the diff and Ujoints at the stub axle?

 

Any chance Cahant and you can get that puppy on a lift and take some pics of the details of the diff install and halfshafts?

 

Thanks,

 

------------------

Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com -

[Mikelly]

Darius,

Sounds like a sweet setup. I'd be real interested in more info on that rear to! And I'm gald you decided to take part in our forum. Sounds like you have a lot to contribute here! Stick around and keep us posted!

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

[Guest Anonymous]

Darious, you have a great car and I am sorry if I came off a bit harsh but I firmly believe that this motor is not an 8:1 motor. Just looking out for you because if you burn chips, up the boost, add nitrous or whatever you plan to do thinking this is an 8:1 motor it is going to blow. If your builder guarantees you it is, then let him hold up to it. Either way good luck with the car, and be safe.

 

Dave Santel

 

[This message has been edited by Dsantel (edited September 12, 2000).]

[BLKMGK]

With LSD R200s being such a bitch to find it might be worth really documenting what it takes to get as later model 300ZX TT rear in there. Especially if this means that the rest of the driveline back there gets beefier too.

 

Please get that puppy on a lift and take some pics! Any and all measurements owuld be nice. Hell, if someone has a machine shop and could tool up a few bits I'd be interested in pitching in! I've got an LSD R200 but kripes I worry it'll break too. We'll see - I'm a big forced induction freak and ATI stuff is easy for me to get so a blower could easily wind up on my car down the road. I'd like to have a driveline to handle it if possible...

[Guest Anonymous]

>Darius:

I Installed splayed 4 bolt main caps eagle rods,

 

>Dsantel:

Good for a high-reving motor. Over-kill on a block that will stay under 6500 RPM, which most blower motors do.

 

that may be your opinion, but I have seen many low reving (6k or 6500) motors blow apart the main bearings due to endcap walk, in such applications such as NOS or turbo or "blowers". The violent rpm increase of such "power adder" cars will stretch main bolts.... just look at all the high power (and relativly low rpm) fords running blowers into the 15lb range... they all (if they plan on running more than 10k) have main support systems, unless using a4 or new r302 blocks that happen to be splayed.

 

>Darius:

venolia blower pistons which lowered comp to 8to1.

 

>Dsantel:

Not a chance in hell with stock heads. The dish would have to be way to

large for any reasonable piston design. Remember that stock LT1 heads have

53-54cc chambers.

 

Darius, I know the machine shop had your heads when they were building your motor, because it came back an assembled long block. Dsantel, didnt you think that the combustion chambers on the heads could have been reworked and increased enough to give him the 8:1 when combined with the venolia pistions? I know at least one of my friends that had this done to his TFS heads so that he could run stock pistons and still have the lower 8.5:1 cr that he wanted.

 

I know you already apologized for this post, and i am not tring to upset anyone, just telling you what I have seen and what I know.

[BLKMGK]

Main supports in Fords - now there's a funny subject

 

When you begin to hit 450hp - especially in something somewhat violent like a NOS car forget the mani support - goto a Motorsport block or to a 351W. Ford has been pulling metal from these blocks for years and they're pretty darned thin these days. A good friend of mine owns Excessive Motorsport East - note the East. He wrenches Mustangs all day long. At least one of his cutomers bought into the main support thing and learned what it was worth when it blew the bottom end out the pan - support still attached (mostly)!

 

Those supports will help stop the caps from walking around but there's so little metal that the block flexes anyway at those power levels.

 

Oh yeah - A4 block has been discontinued and were hard as hell to find anyway. I THINK they've got an R302 now that's stronger but I may be mixing that part up with another.

 

If you want to build a Ford motor build one of their 351W setups. They sell one with a beefy block as a shortblock - but with hyper pistons. That sucker is damn near unbreakable!

 

P.S. How much chamber volume must be removed to drop say 2 compression points? I'd guess a bunch but I just don't know and am curious.

[Guest Anonymous]

BLKMGK,

you just repeated almost exactly what I was saying. wasnt trying to say that you can push 1000hp thru a 302 block if you main support it. I agree 450 is a reasonable limit to the stock block, but It will last longer with a main support.

 

yes A4 is discontinued, r302 is the new design of the old block with some minor improvements either one was good past 1000hp. But they do weigh a ton! Talk about dropping a tank under your hood... one of my friends has one in his living room.

 

You are right on with the new 351 setups. They call them a "sportsman" block and it has the same casting as the NASCAR block minus the splayed mains. Can you say "SOLID" main webbing? Damn! You can see pictures at alternativeauto.com in the "water box archives"

 

Not sure on this but I think it is 2cc for each .1 of cr.

[John Scott]

I agree with Darius' recommendation for the splayed four bolts and eagle rods. Everyone who runs a blower will someday start to wonder what just a few more lbs of boost will do. Take the time and $$ to give yourself room to grow and build the beefiest bottom end you can afford. My wimpy two bolt has major main cap walk. 4K mi. and down to the copper on most. If I had been satisfied with 10 psi probably would live longer. 14,16, then 18 psi- Once you experience the power of the high boost you won't be satisfied with going back. I like the idea of a really low comp. ratio engine in the light weight Z. I don't want a zillion lb of torque off idle. I'd rather it came in around 2000 rpm. Easy to modulate with a stick. Mine runs 7.5 and is perfectly happy with 14-16 psi. I know I'm on a short lease with the new bearings in mine, but mabe a stout V8 will be the next logical step. I'll be all ears with the charged V8 info.

JS