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Garrett turbine blankets


RB26powered74zcar

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Lookie what I just bought from Aussie....

 

blanketsmgarret.jpg

http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category60_1.htm

 

These ought to look good on my twin GT2540r's. I paid $315 delivered for the pair, so I think I did good.

 

It should keep me from worring about burning the paint off my hood now, even though I had all the hot parts JetHot coated....

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I have the standard 2540's on my RB. How are the "R"s? Everybody poo-poo's the standards in the face of the 2530's as they say the 40's are mismatched. I'm only running about 400 wheel, but my torque curve on stock cams impressed the dyno tech.....

 

On the blankets, I might be a bit worried on how much heat you're trapping in the turbines just prior to turning the car off......

 

420hp worth of air each...
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Guest JAMIE T

I'm using the HKS GT2540R's which are not the same as the Garrett units on Joels car. They are ball bearing, but are direct bolt-on replacements. The HKS ones are supposed to be good for 750 crank HP as a pair. I'm only shooting for a measly little 600 rwhp though.

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On the blankets, I might be a bit worried on how much heat you're trapping in the turbines just prior to turning the car off......

 

 

I was thinking that myself. I'm somewhat (ok, largely) uneducated about the finer points of turbo systems but it would seem to me running those would pretty much require the car to be allowed to idle a while (minute or two maybe? Anyone know?) to cool em down a little before being totally turned off.

 

I'm sure you already know that, I'm just wondering what extent the cooling would have to be taken to to ensure the longevity of the turbo's - and if the extra heat while in operation would have a factor in turbo life.

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I'm using the HKS GT2540R's which are not the same as the Garrett units on Joels car. They are ball bearing, but are direct bolt-on replacements. The HKS ones are supposed to be good for 750 crank HP as a pair. I'm only shooting for a measly little 600 rwhp though.

The HKS GT2540R is smaller than what Joel has.

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I was thinking that myself. I'm somewhat (ok' date=' largely) uneducated about the finer points of turbo systems but it would seem to me running those would pretty much require the car to be allowed to idle a while (minute or two maybe? Anyone know?) to cool em down a little before being totally turned off.

 

I'm sure you already know that, I'm just wondering what extent the cooling would have to be taken to to ensure the longevity of the turbo's - and if the extra heat while in operation would have a factor in turbo life.[/quote']

 

 

This info is right in the link I posted under the pic of the blanket...

 

" As these Blankets are designed to retain heat within the turbo, it is recommended that the blanket be removed for vehicle "Garaging" as retaining the heat without the water/oil circulation may cause long term reduced life for the turbo (this is particularly relevant when used with non-water cooled plain bearing units). "

 

I'm not going to sweat it to much. I won't be parking it in the garage right at the end of a drag race..

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Sorry....Idling or the use of turbo timers to cool an engine/turbines is a pet peeve of mine.

 

The proper way to cool a t/c engine is to stay off it two or three minutes prior to shutting down. An idling vehicle has much lower oil/coolant flow, no air flow to assist in removing heat from the radiator/oil cooler, and higher under hood temperatures. People who race idle because they have nowhere to go. They also accept lower reliability as a result of the "harsh" treatment of a "race" engine.

 

I was thinking that myself. I'm somewhat (ok, largely) uneducated about the finer points of turbo systems but it would seem to me running those would pretty much require the car to be allowed to idle a while (minute or two maybe? Anyone know?) to cool em down a little before being totally turned off.
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Is'nt the engine supposed to be idled so that the turbo can slow right down? So when the engine is turned off the turbo RPM is as slow as its ever going to be at idle?

 

One thing I have noticed with a BB turbo though is that it is still rotating no matter how long the engine is idled and continues to do so for several seconds after the engine stops.

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Low load driving and idle aren't all that different in terms of heat into the turbines. Additionally, a quick look at a boost guage will tell you that at low load conditions, your turbines aren't compressing much air as the induction system is under vacuum. This is a big chunk of the heat.

 

If you have an oil temp guage on your t/c'd car, you'll note that the oil temps increase as you idle as compared to low load driving. Now of course, part of this increase is caused by the decrease in oil flow (longer exposure to heat means more heat absorbed). This higher oil temperature means a lower temperature differential, which in turn means a slower rate of heat transfer (more heat held in the turbines). More heat held in the turbines means a higher probability of oil breakdown/coking. The biggest aspect of this is increased oil/coolant flow and air flow across your coolers.

 

 

Is'nt the engine supposed to be idled so that the turbo can slow right down? So when the engine is turned off the turbo RPM is as slow as its ever going to be at idle?

 

One thing I have noticed with a BB turbo though is that it is still rotating no matter how long the engine is idled and continues to do so for several seconds after the engine stops.

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i definately agree with hakosuka, although i cant really add anything to what he is saying except that heat escapes the bay better when moving. im not completely sure but is there anyway that you could get a oil/water cooler or something for just the turbos? or at least have a switch that will increase oil/coolant flow during idle and turn a fan or something. (dunno just shooting stuff off my head) but what i didnt know that a turbo timer was actually worse. i knew it wasnt the best alternative, but i didnt know that.

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