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Datsun adjustable clutch pushrod fab


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you can make the clutch adjustable at the operating cylinder with a modified grade eight bolt to replace the non-adjusting push rod. Find a bolt an inch or so longer and about the same diameter as the push rod with about 2 inches of thread at the end. Drill a hole in the throw out lever indent (where the push rod end resides) to allow the bolt to slde thru snugly. The hole in the throw out lever has to be drilled on a drill press since the lever is hardened. Don't even bother if the lever is already mounted in the bellhousing because King Kong ain't got the strength to push that drill thru with a hand drill... cut the bolt head off and round the end like the OEM pushrod with a file. You can do this with the bolt mounted in the drill press chuck and also make the center groove on the new push rod mounted in a drill press with a file (hill billy mini lathe) this center groove is for the rubber nipple seal located on the end of the operating cylinder that the pushrod moves thru. Get 4 nuts place two on the operating cylinder side and two on the outside of the throw out lever The nuts on each side of the lever are adjusters and the outside nuts are lockers. Datsun used to make these adjustable push rods years ago. To get my but up higher with my head upside down in a tiny floor compartment is vulnerability bordering on vulgarity,.....and it becomes very confusing to adjust a clutch f/*** backwards upside-down in the northern hemisphere. I have been making these adjustable pushrods for years everytime I change a clutch .............OEM threaded adjustable push rod photo http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/8223&.dnm=b5c1.jpg&.src=ph

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Guest 73Turbo240z

he's talking about the slave cylinder... it's a fairly simple modification when you get down to it...

 

and olie, i can't speak for every 240z, but i can speak from my own 240z, as being an all OEM 73' when i started, it did not have an adjustable slave cyl. rod....

 

heres a photo of the adjustable setup on a 78' i had... obviously not OEM, but it gets you the idea in visual perspective...

 

adjustableslavecyl6up.jpg

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:) You can use bolt stock rods as replacement rods to. You get it at any hardware store. Comes in about 3 foot lengths. All you got to do is measure the length you have and what you may need to make it work and cut. Or place the old part on the stock and mark it a bit bigger and cut. Use a grinder to round off the ends and shorten it if needed for fine tuning. You can cut several lengths and keep for a rainy day. A cheap way to do it.
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I just looked in my haynes manual, and it shows a picture of the adjustable setup on what they call an "early" type slave cylinder. It appears to have a two nuts, one that sits against the fork and one that locks the first nut. It also has a spring to hold the fork against the pushrod. (P.89 in haynes manual.)

 

That said, What is the purpose of an adjuster on this piece? Would you adjust it with some preload on the clutch so that the Throw out bearing is always up against the springs or what? I've never had any problems with my solid push rod, even with a stiffer pressure plate. Please enlighten me :)

-Oliver

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Maybe Nissan stopped using the early adjustable rod because some were adjusting it up too tight? Stating the obvious but a certain amount of clearance is required.

 

The insufficient travel problem seems to arise when non standard clutches are used, particularly with a heavier clutch. Sometimes the only way round it is to use a smaller ID slave cylinder or a larger ID master cylinder, either of which gives more travel. And a heavier pedal.

 

My only experience with the indecent-exposure-upside-down-back-to-front thing involves the adjustable brake master cylinder rod inside the cabin. When doing that you need to be able to trust any spectators absolutely :D

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I just looked in my haynes manual, and it shows a picture of the adjustable setup on what they call an "early" type slave cylinder

 

I found this out the hard way when I swapped trannies and the new one had the old style fork with the hole in it. Problem was I didn't find out until everything was together and the clutch went to the floor. Only way to fix was to pull the tranny back out and swap forks. On the upside I've gotten to the point I can have the tranny on the floor in about an hour.

 

That said, What is the purpose of an adjuster on this piece?

 

That's what I'm thinking too - why bother changing over to an adjustable slave cylinder rod?

 

Cameron

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THanx 73 Turbo for the visual aid. The clutch fork has a 'dimple" that the pushrod sets in .......... a long nut for adjusting can also be rounded on one end to mate to the clutch fork's dimple for a better fit. Put the headless bolt in the drill press with the long nut locked in place by another nut and put the file to it.... Threaded stock can be used as a push tod but I prefer a grade 8 bolt....What I have found in adjusting the clutch with the threaded push rod is to have a little slop in the clutch fork. The spring is not really required unless needed in an extreme case. And for the members who cannot see a need for this "hands on visual adjustor" at the clutch fork..... You are welcome to perform this adjustment proceedure in a remote location under the dash...LOL. I get confused easly when my undersized brain is placed upside down in a confined area with all my blood rushing to my over-sized butt which is left grinning from ear to ear. . and sometimes that 30 year old "OEM" threadless push rod's length is incompatiable with replacement exchange clutch parts. as 260DET aptly observes. We are talking fine tuning here. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/8223&.dnm=b5c1.jpg&.src=ph

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Thanks to Dave L. aka : V8-240 Z for sending me a OEM threaded adjustable push rod. Photo http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/8223&.dnm=b5c1.jpg&.src=ph The L20 B (held together by baling wire and blind faith) in my 1978 620 pick-up fried a head gasket. A renter abandoned a 1980 510 station wagon with a Z20 and 5 speed on my property that I plan to replace the L20 B with. I will switch my weber carb to the Z20 and get it running in the 510 body to check out evertythong before the swap. Apparently the Z 20 is the L20 B block with a cross flow head. If the oil pans exchange.. I will be back datsun trucking and with an oem adustable clutch push rod without making one from scratch thanks to home boy dave in Portland... here is my "go to the dump" 620 pick-up http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/larryjohnson97438/detail?.dir=/392a&.dnm=3968.jpg&.src=ph

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