mtcookson Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 Okay... so, I have a 1975 280Z. I'm swapping in a VH45DE and will be turbocharging it. I'm wanting to make a minimum of about 600 rwhp. I'm trying to figure out what to do about the suspension and the drivetrain so I'll try to keep everything split up and make another thread in the drivetrain forum. Current plans to make all this work utilize: TTZ 5-speed 280YZ kit (at the very least in the rear) From Modern Motorsports: Billet R230 CV adapter w/ custom shafts 280Z stub axles (5x4.5 adapter) I'm trying to figure out if the suspension will handle this power, and if not what can be done about it. I've been doing tons of reading and I've seen everything from a incredibly fast [slightly improved] stock suspension Z to full custom carriages and everything. I basically want to take the car drag racing a little bit, autocrossing, and to some road races if possible. It will also be driven on the street. I know, I know... wanting to do all those things will keep it from excelling in one particular type but I'm not really planning on doing all out racing, moreso I just want to go out and have some fun at the various events without having to have a dedicated car to that event. I'm trying to decide between the R230 and R200V, which will likely dictate the type of suspension setups I'm able to use. I'm leaning towards the Q45 diff. since I already have one, the lower ratios will likely fit better being turbocharged, and its supposed to have quite strong axles. A swap I noticed that really interested me was the S13/S14 rear end swap. There was a lot of debate on whether it actually benefitted the car over the stock suspension but being able to drop the Q diff right in, having the 5 lugs, and being able to use the 240SX coilovers in the rear seems kind of nice. I'm not really much for the sleeve coilovers so that seems like a good choice. Really in the end though, I just need something that'll handle the power but will handle decently. I'm planning on getting it caged to stiffen up the chassis a bit and such but I'm just trying to find the best route I can. What would you guys recommend for this type of setup? (I'm leaving a few specifics out but have most of the stuff covered. If you guys need anymore info from me, just let me know.) I guess I should also ask, what are some suggestions for the front suspension? It definitely seems to be a weak link and would definitley like to spend some time improving it if at all possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 3, 2006 Share Posted January 3, 2006 The biggest issues you will face will be setting up the rear suspension to get that power to the ground. If you plan on switching to the 240SX rear suspension, you're basically on your own figuring that out and making sure the front and rear roll centers are right. If you plan on using the 240Z rear suspension then here are a few tips: 1. You'll need to upgrade the rear lower control arms. Write Ross another check. 2. You should run monoballs instead of poly or rubber inner LCA bushings. 3. You should build stronger, custom transverse link and transverse link braces. 4. You should build a stronger front differential crossmember. 5. You should install a welded in roll bar that ties the rear strut towers into the rockers, has a welded in strut tower brace, and you might want to think about tying in the rear subframe that the transverse link braces bolt to. The above will help keep the rear suspension located properly at the horsepower levels you're planning. Since its MOSTLY a street car you should not install a roll cage. Instead, build some subframe connectors that connect the front and rear together. Once all of this is done then you can start figuring out spring rates (probably the same as recommended on hundreds of threads here), shocks, ARBs, wheel/tire combo, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtcookson Posted January 5, 2006 Author Share Posted January 5, 2006 Thanks for the input. The only thing I didn't catch was monoballs. Are you talking like the heim joints? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 http://www.stockcarproducts.com/rodend6.htm Monoballs are the bearings that are in a rod end/heim joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted January 5, 2006 Share Posted January 5, 2006 With that sort of power using the Nissan multilink rear suspension module makes a lot of sense, the extra weight becomes a non issue. There is heaps of stuff available for that suspension, including adjustable everything. Plus there has been a lot of development gone into it, particularly in Japan, eg here http://www.ikeya-f.co.jp/en/product_notice/foot_works.html Sounds like a great project Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtcookson Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Yeah, I definitely like the options I'd have with the 240SX rear setup plus if I used the Q45 hubs and brakes in the rear I should be able to fit 15 inch wheels for the strip if needed. Man... too many options. Since its MOSTLY a street car you should not install a roll cage. Instead, build some subframe connectors that connect the front and rear together. My only fear is that the car might be fast enough that the guys at the drag strip would likely not let me run without it. I'll have to double check their rules but I believe they would require me to have one. I believe they go by NHRA rules. I don't want anything too extreme but enough to pass tech and keep me safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karay240 Posted January 6, 2006 Share Posted January 6, 2006 it's an interesting that you're choosing to go w/ the vh45. why are you planning on such a PITA of an undertaking? are you able to do the majority of the welding/fabricating? we discected a VH45 the other day @ the shop, and honestly, it was great. the motor is awsome!!! it's built very nice. the ports ate HUGE and straight, and after studying the motor for a while, we were VERY impressed w/ the construction. 6 bolt mains, x beam construction b/w the banks, roller rockers, flawless bearings after over 200,000 miles on the odometer, etc, etc, and the list goes on. that being said, there were a couple of complaints. even though i fugured out how to convert the hydraulic pivots to solid, the base circle of the cams are tiny, so a regrind might be out of the question. meaning we'll probably be stuck w/ low lift and narrow duration cams. unless you're willing to reengineer the VH, or you've got enough $$$ to go through motors often, i'd go w/ a more proven engine like a domestic motor, RB or a 2J. not trying to piss on your ideas, but unless you're very well off, very smart, or both, going w/ a proven combination would be a better decision to me. either way, i'm sure it'll turn out great w/ the track you're on kenny http://www.rbmotoring.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtcookson Posted January 6, 2006 Author Share Posted January 6, 2006 Yeah, I definitely like how well built these engines are. I know of a few guys actually making around 500-600 hp on the stock block. One was twin turboed, the other with a supercharger and nitrous, and the third with solely nitrous. They do an incredible job. Reason why I wanted to go this route was, at the time, it hadn't been done to my knowledge and was incredibly unique. I at first was just going to go the VG30ET or VG30DETT route but I wanted V8 power. Problem with that is I'm not much a fan of the domestic V8's and they've also been done a lot. I wanted something with some good technology, with the incredibly reliability of a Japanese engine, and something from Nissan. I finally remembered that Nissan did make a V8 for the Infiniti Q45 and everything went on from there. The RB is a very awesome engine and all... but I'd actually prefer the VG30DETT over it simply because its more of a low end motor. The VG can produce an incredible amount of torque down low that the RB couldn't even touch which is what I like and I figured the VH would do even better being a V8 with another 1.5 liter of displacement. Cam wise I'm not too worried at the moment since they've been able to crank out so much power with the stock cams. I know some improvement could definitely be made by decreasing the overlap quite a bit and either changing around the VTC release point to optimize it being turbocharged or possibly just delete the whole VTC setup. That'll definitely be down the road though because I know as it is, the thing can make tons of power quite reliably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clifton Posted January 8, 2006 Share Posted January 8, 2006 I've had no problems with the stock LCA's. I run eccentric inner bushings, just to pull it in a little to run a 275 tire, other than that, stock front rubber diff mount with a steel limiter, rubber outer lca bushings and poly mustache bar bushings. I've only broke a driveshaft U joint. I would run 1310's and maybe CV's if it's going to see drag use with DR's. The torque is what breaks the parts. NHRA doesn't care what you have or how much you make, just what your times are. 11.5 and faster you'll need a cage. Some tracks (atleast here)aren't as anal about the rules and let mid 10 sec street cars run without cages. Just a driveshaft loop is all you need to run up to an 11.5. I'll be following you in the VH turbo swap soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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