JMortensen Posted January 19, 2006 Author Share Posted January 19, 2006 So far the cutoff wheel is proving the easiest. The burr is the fastest by a good margin, but a bit wild. I'm doing the crappy passenger side first, but I can already see that the floor is pretty F'ed up. Not sure if I'll be able to beat it flat of if I'm going to be buying floorpans too. Just what I need... ANOTHER project... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 Took all my measurements and cut the right side off... probably do the left tomorrow. Not so bad all in all. They really welded the crap out of the TC bucket. That sploogy looking weld on the side penetrates about 3/8". Had to grind most of that off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrayZee Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I have been in that situation of trying to drill out spot welds before. I was quite surprised to read all the varied answers and solutions to the problem in this thread. It has been my experience that a regular drill bit will not even begin to touch a spot weld. However if the drill bit is titanium coated, it'll drill through it quite well. One you have all the spot welds drilled out you should be able to separate the two panels with a good sharp chisel and hammer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimsum Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 Jon, now that you've completed this step of your project, would you still recommend using the cut-off wheel as the best solution? Also, would the wheel work for cutting the floor pan welds to remove the pan? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted December 30, 2006 Author Share Posted December 30, 2006 Yeah, cutoff wheel is what I've used for any spot welds that have needed to be removed since that portion of the project. I didn't try to remove the floor pans at all, and there may be some areas that are hard to get at near the rockers (just guessing) but the wheel would definitely be my tool of choice. You may want to look at one of the spot weld cutters too. That might even be better, I just never wanted to shell out the money for one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted December 30, 2006 Share Posted December 30, 2006 I started out using cut off wheels on the spot welds, then I bought this $11 bit http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ap1721.html and this $13 spot weld cutter http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/blr13224.html The bit works perfectly to completely remove the spot weld flush to the bottom panel. The cutter leaves a button, but supposedly the button can be used to realign the panel if you are reattaching a repaired panel. It also works as a plug weld cutter to cut perfect holes in new sheet metal. It comes in several different diameters. I find the $11 money well spent when compared to the cut off wheel approach. Massively faster and more accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 It works well and the garage smells like ribs when I'm drilling... Sam mmmmm. ribs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted January 4, 2007 Share Posted January 4, 2007 hey jmort, have you thought about using a flat piece of copper, or a penny, and butting it against the sheet metal and welding on the other side to fill any holes that are made while removing the spot welds? a friend of mine does that when welding in the holes on battery trays after removing them from his project cars. might wanna look into that and practice on some poo metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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