dimsum

I have a Cusco front strut tower bar and an off-brand rear strut tower bar. I can ship both if you're interested.

Is there a way to rebuild the combination switch? My left headlight is out, and I think it might be the switch. The left high beam works fine, but the low beam does not work.

Congratulations on your first drive! Also, good luck on the electrical problems.

That idea is slightly depressing, especially for somebody who is just starting to dig myself into the pit. It doesn't help that I've always wanted a Porsche GT2.

ezzzzzzz, the tranny I have has a flange at the output, not a slip-yoke. I'm not sure about the shifter, though (A or . I contacted www.datsunroadster.com, and they mentioned that the tranny is most likely from a Japanese 240 Z. Not sure if they have the parts I need yet, though.

Update: My mechanic doesn't want to try the parts from www.datsunroadster.com because there is no guarantee they will work. He can't find any dealership that sells the steel rings. Right now, he's trying to convince me to buy another transmission and trade mine in as a core. The cost for that would be $650 for the rebuilt transmission. Are the steel synchro trannys worth any more? Is $650 for a rebuilt 5-speed transmission a good deal?

Cameron, thanks for pointing me in the right direction. And you were right, they are not cheap. I actually found this web site when I did a search, but was hoping that there are Nissan dealerships around that might still have the parts. I just figured it would be easier for my mechanic. I'll show him this web site, though. Thanks again.

My mechanic said that he wasn't able to locate these synchros at the nearest Nissan dealership. I can only assume it was Steven's Creek Nissan in San Jose. I suppose he could have been looking for the wrong parts or something. If there is anybody out there who works at a Nissan dealership and can supply the steel synchros from a comp tranny, I would REALLY appreciate it if you could let me know. Thanks.

My car has been at the shop for about 6 weeks now while the mechanic is trying to fix my transmission. He rebuilt the tranny about 8 months ago while I was replacing the engine, but when I installed the engine and tranny, I was grinding into all the lower gears. Now, it's back at the mechanic, and he's doing "warranty" work on the previous job. It's a 5-speed transmission, and the mechanic says that it has steel synchros. He doesn't know where to find replacement synchros, which is why he's had the car for so long. I did a search on this forum, and a lot of people say that the steel synchros are the same as old Porsche 911 transmission synchros. Before I send my mechanic down this path, does anybody know where I/he can order replacement synchros? I prefer not to pay high dealer prices if I can avoid it. Also, can anybody shed some more light about the steel synchros vs. brass ones? Thanks.

Hmm. I never knew that the instructions were so complex for installing such a simple modification.

Dragonfly, I posted a while back about having the same problem with my Fidanza flywheel. I got shorter bolts as well, but I can't remember what length they are now. I was able to torque the shorter bolts down without any problem. Fidanza also said that they could drill out the flywheel holes if you send the flywheel back to them, but I figured the shorter bolts would hold fine.

That's cheap! The Discount Tire web site is quoting $110 for those tires, and I'm pretty sure that is before mounting and balancing. How did you get yours for so cheap?

I agree. My guess is that you have a newer Z with low brake fluid.

One friend mentioned that the transmission fluid might be causing the problem. He had a Toyota AE86 whose tranny would grind when he used synthetic transmission oil. He suggested trying some regular oil to see if it gets rid of the problem.

I'm not sure how far $3000 will go in Australia, but I know it won't get you TOO much here in the US. It would be difficult to get to 200 hp (rear wheels or flywheel) on that budget. I would think that carbs, a header, and cams would be a good start for your project if you are just looking for HP. Instead of cams, though, I would recommend getting some good shocks and springs to help lower your center of gravity and stiffen up the suspension. Good luck with your project, and keep us updated.

Ugh...that's what I was hoping I could avoid. I'm planning on changing out the clutch cylinders first to see if that solves the problem. That will force me to bleed the lines again, this time making sure I don't have any air left in them. Thanks for the recommendations.

I'm using the same clutch that was in the car before (Centerforce street clutch). I also have a Fidanza aluminum flywheel. I'm running Redline MTL 70W80 transmission oil, just changed. I do not know if hot or cold makes a difference. I'll try and check that out when I get a chance.

Finally got the engine running somewhat decently, but the gears grind when I shift. I have a 5-speed transmission mated to an L24. While I had the engine out, I had the transmission rebuilt. The mechanic said the synchros looked fine, so he only replaced all the bearings. Now, when I shift, the gears will grind about 40 to 50% of the time (either upshifting or downshifting). When I shift either way, it is at a relatively low RPM (<3500). I think that double-clutching helps a bit, but I'm not sure. I also replaced the clutch hydraulic fluid, but that did not help any. Before I started the car up this past March, it had been sitting for about a year. My guess is that the clutch cylinders are bad and need to be replaced, but I wanted to get a second opinion from this group.

Roost, In case you're keeping up with this thread, I put a check in the mail to you today. Thanks.

Bartman, Thanks for the reference. I read through, and it looks like you guys went through a lot of what I'm looking at now. You only used the shoulder piece of the 260Z/280Z seat belt, right? You removed it from the lapbelt, and then bolted it back onto the 240Z lap belt? How did you separate the shoulder strap on the the 260Z/280Z belt from the lap belt? Also, how did you drill the hole through the 240Z lap belt? Do you remember what size bolt you used? Thanks.

I know this subject has been discussed before, but I haven't found anything conclusive on it. I'm looking for retractable 3-point seatbelts for my 1973 240Z. The newer seatbelts from a 260Z and 280Z don't fit. (Specifically, the location of the bolt holes on the lower mounting bracket are spaced differently.) Has anybody ever used this company? http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/resebe.html From what I can see on the web site, it looks like those seat belts might work. I wanted to see if other people have found other or better solutions.

Heh heh...good suggestion. I placed a fire extinguisher in the garage early on in the project. With the heat guns, welding equipment, and 1000W lights in there, I'm surprised nothing has caught on fire yet. Thanks for the other suggestions, too.

Hello I just installed a rebuilt engine into my 240Z, and am in the process of bolting everything else back on to the car. With any luck, I'll be able to start this guy up in the next few weeks. Is there anything I should be aware of or check before trying to start the engine for the first time? Any and all suggestions are welcome, but I'm especially looking for those random things that might not be intuitive. When I bought the car, the previous owner blew a piston ring, so the car wasn't running. According to him, before he blew the ring, the car ran fine without any problems. We'll see if he was honest or not. In case it matters, the 240Z has a 5-speed, Mikuni carbs, and a Mallory Uni-lite ignition. Thanks.

That's odd. I wonder why mine don't go all the way through to the ring gear. I wonder if Fidanza makes the flywheels both ways. I would be interested to see if WEBEZEEed's flywheel holes don't go all the way through. I ended up using 16 mm bolts to hold the clutch cover snug up against the flywheel. No need for additional washers.

I'm cool with that. Thanks, Roost, for making these!