John Scott Posted May 24, 2000 Share Posted May 24, 2000 While checking under my car for suspicious looking components, I noticed one of my tie rod ends had a boot starting to go. Hmmm, felt a little sloppy too. (While the ends are out would be a good time to upgrade some bushings with urethane). What are some good alignment #s for a primarily street use Z? I"m running Motorsport springs, about 1.5 inch lower than stock. 205 50 16f/225 50 16 r. Slightly more weight towards the rear. Suggestions? JS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 24, 2000 Share Posted May 24, 2000 If it is primarely a street z, I'd set the front up with about 1 degree negative camber and zero on the toe out. I'd also try to adjust the TC rod so that you get a little positive caster... or shim it up so you can get 5 degrees or so positive... That would be a good setup. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 24, 2000 Share Posted May 24, 2000 Thanks Mike, I'll use those for my street set up (if I can get that much camber). What about rear settings for a street Z with 235/45-17s up front 255/45-17s rear, coilovers (not sure what stiffness I'll end up with), 7/8" front bar, no rear bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 25, 2000 Share Posted May 25, 2000 Personally I don't agree with JTR's "No rear bar" theory. My car, when not tormenting me with fuel issues and smoking exhaust, will pull a passenger through the drivers window on a hard right turn... without slide. I would run 3/4 degree negative on the rear with zero toe. You should be able to get 1 degree negative up front, don't sweat it! Possitive caster is where you will have issues. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted May 25, 2000 Share Posted May 25, 2000 Thanks Mike. The only reason I don't have a rear bar on the car is that I don't own one to put on! I also have a 1-1/8" Front bar I could use, especially when I get a rear bar. I've heard that the suspension techniques rear bar interferes with the CV shafts that I have installed. With a 1-1/8" front bar, would a 3/4 or 7/8 rear bar be the right size? So it looks like I'll be putting a custom mount for the ST bar, when I get one. Any other ideas on a rear bar that will clear the CV shafts? The reason I was doubting tha I could get 1 degree negative camber up front (or rear) is that I'm using the stock strut isolators with slotted (until the isolators hit) mount holes. I've heard you can't get to 1 degree with that and I haven't checked it on my car yet (waiting to get it all together at ride height for that). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted May 25, 2000 Share Posted May 25, 2000 You can get your factory lower control arms modified with Chromo threaded sleeves and Heim joints up front. That is what ZDr. did for me. This will allow up to 8 degrees of negative camber which you will never use, but you won't have to slot holes or worry about changing or modifying the upper isolator. I'm using a 3/4 inch rear sway bar... I mis-quoted the size previously in another post. Not sure about getting around the CV axle clearance issue.. I'd think 3/4 is sufficiant. To thick and you might have the problems that JTR describes. Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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