Welded doors

[DAW]

Has anyone made a roadster out of a Zcar and welded the doors to stiffen the unibody? DAW

[Here comes trouble]

In the Hybrid Z classified (MAYBE ''Project Cars") YNOT (Bill) has a Vello Rossa with interesting door and windshield modifcations

[Cody 82 ZXT]

I don't remember seeing one but, sure seems like it wold be great for the body structure.

[OlderThanMe]

just go dukes style...imagine doing that in a coupe Z...lol

[Some-Guy]

all i can imagine going dukes style is smacking my face on the roof everytime and falling on my *** and laying half out of the car... probly bleedin or something lol

[tannji]

Me and a buddy discussed this in the 80's, due to his ghetto swap having about 200 ft/lbs too much torque for his stock chassis. Fortunately, we tried getting in the window before he could lay a bead... Although it pretty much sucked all the way around, the biggest problem was the steering wheel. Of course, his next idea was to cut the roof off....

[DAW]

I remember seeing an old James Bond movie and he was driving a Mustang GT350 or something and his line was, ..."the doors are welded..."

Even in a roadster I think a quick-release steering wheel would be a must. DAW

[SHO-Z]

Here is a summery of my Z convert. I have not welded the doors. I am to old and out of shape for that and would become impaled on the stearing wheel shaft with a removable wheel.

 

74 Big Bumper 260Z Convertible.

 

This conversion was done similar to the Z Therapy conversion. I collected through the internet and several Kit Car Magazine articles my plan of attack on the conversion. First I would not do this to a real clean Z, there are enough ones out there with minimal rust and body damage around.

 

This is a general summery of how I constructed my project.

 

Step One

Sit down with a couple of beers and think this project out, once you get to Step Two there is no turning back.

Remove the entire interior from the doors back and the head liner.

Jack the z up level and put the stands on the suspension points. Evan though the car is still a coupe I wanted to make sure that when I added the reinforcement the car was still square.

Install the 2†x 1†x 1/8†tube stock under the car, behind the seats and through the floor. The use of a protractor square helps in laying out the angle cuts. I added additional welds tying the tube stock into the existing uni-body frame rails. This does limit the seat travel for some one well over 6 ft. Evan with this there is still some torsional deflection in the car. I am planning in installing an X brace between the frame rails to elevate the problem. After doing this conversion I do not believe anyone who says that no reinforcement is required.

 

Remove the rear hatch and side rear windows,

 

Step Two

Now comes the lump in your stomach.

 

Layout a line about 1-1/2†back from the top of the windshield. Then another line from the back corner each of the rear windows to the around 2†from the back of the car.

 

I used both a sawsall and a 4†grinder with a thin wheel to do the cutting.

 

Basically cut on the lines lines, some blocking is required to keep things from binding.

 

Once the top is removed cut the top again just off of where the top and the hatch hinges box section. Trim all of the excess metal from the sides of the hatch area. Remembering to leave enough metal to weld too.

 

I set hatch hinge box section directly over the rear strut towers, leaving just enough room to get a box end wrench on the strut nuts. This will get you the length of the trunk and a hard point for the rear shape of the Z. This is the first section of the car that I welded in place. Welding the box section onto the strut towers is like adding a strut brace and I feel really helps stiffen the car. At this point the edges of the trunk were basically installed. This gives a basic arch across the back of the car.

 

I cut out cardboard templates of all of the three sections that need to be filled in. Two for each side and one for behind the driver compartment. I used 10 gauge sheet steel for my added body work. This is trial and error situation but with the cardboard templates it just takes time. I added ¼†angle iron around the rear lip of the driver’s compartment for stiffness. The radius was bent around a piece of plywood after I heated the angle iron.

 

After all of the basic sheet metal was installed and welded in I fabricated and installed a piece of sheet steel for the bulkhead between the driver’s compartment and the trunk. On both the lower lip I installed ¼†angle and one across the center. The upper end had extended 1†tabs every 5†that were bent over. Holes drilled through the sheet metal behind the driver’s compartment were used to weld the upper end of the trunk bulkhead in place. The rear hatch was cut and shortened in the widow section. I used a 1x2 piece of wood inside of each side to align the hatch and welded it back together. The widow section was filled with sheet steel from the original top with and added angle iron brace from below. The latch end of the hatch lid needs to be modified to clear the back edge off truck. I used a remote trunk latch from a Lancer mounted under the drivers seat.

 

On the windshield header I cut slots about every inch or so with a grinder. These are bent down and tack welded to the windshield frame. Square cut and cap off the ends of the windshield posts. This gives a flat top to the windshield and will make fitting a soft too easier.

 

This will basically finish all of the metal work. Now comes the pain of the body work. Looking back if I did this again I would use some of the new fillers with glass in it. One trick I did learn is using a long board sander to flatten and shape the trunk. I used a 2x12 that I cut to fit long board sander paper, glued on some old rubber sheet that I had and just stapled the sandpaper to end ends. It worked great flatting and smoothing the trunk and large surfaces.

 

I have a top frame for a TR7 convertible that I need to modify to fit my Z. The design that I used does not allow for the top to be folded down. John Washington makes a fiberglass top that could probably be modified to work.

 

Seat belts are from an Acura Integra, 3 point using bolt points on the inside body panel.

 

This is the basics for building z convertible.

 

Lessons learned:

 

I would fiberglass the rear trunk lid instead of adding the steel window filler section, I was never happy about how this worked out.

Use fiber filled body filler and less Bondo.

Start with a Z that was in a little better shape than I had, found more rust around the rear edge of the hatch on both sides.

Use a quality MIG welder. The one I used was borrowed and I fought the thing from day one. One weld would be great the next looked like ****.

Maybe I should have had a few more beers put my money into more HP, GTO kit, instead of no top.

Trial fit everything at least two the three times to avoid mistakes.

Do not hit a truck tire carcass on the freeway on your first day out, it can do a number on the front fender if hit just right.

 

Would I do it again, I really do not know.

 

This is a good exercise in fabrication to lead to bigger projects.

 

I have some pictures of the fabrication that I will send someone who can post them.

[DAW]

Thanks for sharing the write-up. DAW

[SHO-Z]

DAW

 

I have a bunch of picts of the coversion if you want to see send me a private message with your email.

 

You have to be crazy to build a convertible in Washington with all that rain, of course I have to be crazy I built mine in Bellingham WA.

 

 

[mikeatrpi]

I'd be willing to host the pictures for you as well, at least temporarily.

 

I have a zx that's just barely too good to be a parts car. One night I had a dream that I cut the roof off... I couldn't help but draw some diagrams the next day.