JMortensen Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 My problem is I want to get rid of the 240 stub axles. They simply are not as strong as the 280 ones. That means Ross's companion flanges at $300 or more for his billet ones. Add to the the price of the 280 stubs (Ross's billet stubs at $700 pair) and CV shafts and you are quickly down a grand or more. Yep. My list from memory which is a little fuzzy: CV's $130 for both CV adapters from Ross $215 Wheel bearings ~$140 280 stubs $100 ARP lug studs ~$25 (for the back) So the way I did it you're looking at ~$600. I felt the deal on the CV's was pretty good. Oh, add a tub of grease because I cleaned and repacked the CV's and another $10 for some straps to hold the boots on. Call it $650. But I feel like I won't have to worry about the rear end again for a LONG time. I didn't do Ross's billet pieces because I'm still running a 6 cylinder. Even when I eventually go V8 I figure I should be OK since I am not a drag racer and I don't have a Quaife. I don't think I'll put that severe a shock load on them to warrant the billet stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted March 16, 2006 Author Share Posted March 16, 2006 Thumper - I noticed you have a 260Z - 240 style or later 280 style? That will affect your decision. I have heard that the 280ZX Turbo CV's are getting harder to find and that the 300ZX turbo halfshaft/CV upgrade may be the better move for longer term availability of parts. FWIW - I put new Spicer "Brute force" u-joints on my half-shafts and have already broken one at around 20' date='000 miles after installation. I'm planning on going the CV route when I get time/$$[/quote'] I have an early 260z. 10/73 if I remember correctly. I already know a place where I can get turbo axles for cheap so thats not the problem. Thanks for letting me know about your spicer u-joints. I just broke my first u-joint two weeks ago but that was probably due to old age. I replaced it with some o'reilly brand and it hasn't give me any problems but only time will tell. I will be upgrading too the cv's soon hopefully I won't have to replace my bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 blueovalz I may be hard headed here, but I resist the notion that the 280 axles are significantly stronger than the 240 axles. The examples of failures I've seen are split between the failure being on the threaded end of the splines (which then makes no difference on which axle it is), and on on the axle flange. The shaft (and bearing) sizes are the same dimension, so basically, the spline is the only part that is larger. So...what have I missed on this discussion over the years. 15 years of hard V8 use on the 240 axles and still going. . I totally understand, afterall you haven't had a failure in 15 years, but I have, and when I did the axle swap, The good axle showed evidence of pending failure. It was twisted 1/2 spline. I think JohnC said it best when he said that failures seem to follow the type of abuse we put on them. Like twisted axles from drag style lauches and broken flandge welds on road racing with slicks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 16, 2006 Share Posted March 16, 2006 Just watch, I'll break one this weekend and be totally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 I can't find the link, but somewhere on here there is a detailed dimensional comparison of a 240 and 280 axle. Besides the splines the neck of the 240 part just before the bolt threads is shown as being narrower than the 280 part. It is my understanding that that is where they usually fail Also like Jon said, I need the 280 stubs, so more like $600 with JY parts and well over $1000 with new billet parts. BTW, go to google, select images and search on 240Z stub axles. Comes up with links to Pete's alterdZ site and jerimio's site. True fame there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastzcars Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Here's where my axle broke. The good axle was twisted at the same spot. Tha's why I got Ross's complete setup. It was expensive ,but I now have peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pimp1911 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Cad taken from magshooterz. 240z on left. 280z on right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Thanks for the photo and drawing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510six Posted March 20, 2006 Share Posted March 20, 2006 I run the stock U joint axels with NISMO soild U joints.One pair of axels lasts me a season of drag racing.The stock 280z stub axels are use as well.The only breakage problem that I have had was when using Neapco "Brute Force" U joints, one launch on a sticky track on slicks and the joint went, snap, crackle,pop.The good thing about the stock units is since I had a spare axel I was racing 30 minuts later.When the NISMO U joints become NLA , the plan is to make a setof adaptors and customs axels using Porsche 930 CV`s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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