BIZERK Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Dry sump has been touched on in some past threads but I'm needing some feedback on my idearrrs. First thing i need to establish is that i'm set on dry sump, the addictional cost over an aftermarket oil pump is well worth the insurance provided by dry sump IMO. So now to my proposed plan. I'm only planning to run a 3-stage setup, 2 scavenges in the pan and one feed going in where the oil fitler is. I would like to just canibalize the gtr pan, or atleast use the flange off of it, since it's a pretty good base to work with. I'm also going to be using the tomei oil gallery restrictor to help remedy too much oil staying in the head. I have sketched out a rough idea of what i'm thinking about for the pan http://fragyle.net/bizerk/pan%20idea.jpg. I'm not sure if the oil pump itself acts as a front seal or what so until i can find that out i'm staying away from making a block off plate for the old pump. So, i guess my plan for the time being is to just gut the pump and leave it. I'm also not sure on how to size the resevoir tank. Is the resevoir tank need to be sized based on certain criteria or can i just use a off the shelf tank. Another thing i would like to do is add a small accusump for pre-lube, but i dont have any knowledge on how good that would work in conjunction with the dry sump or what size would be needed. I'm a major noob in this department since i have zero experience with dry sump setups. I'm only going on what i've researched and what little i've seen in person. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted March 22, 2006 Share Posted March 22, 2006 Dry sump has been touched on in some past threads but I'm needing some feedback on my idearrrs. First thing i need to establish is that i'm set on dry sump' date=' the addictional cost over an aftermarket oil pump is well worth the insurance provided by dry sump IMO. So now to my proposed plan. I'm only planning to run a 3-stage setup, 2 scavenges in the pan and one feed going in where the oil fitler is. I would like to just canibalize the gtr pan, or atleast use the flange off of it, since it's a pretty good base to work with. I'm also going to be using the tomei oil gallery restrictor to help remedy too much oil staying in the head. I have sketched out a rough idea of what i'm thinking about for the pan http://fragyle.net/bizerk/pan%20idea.jpg. I'm not sure if the oil pump itself acts as a front seal or what so until i can find that out i'm staying away from making a block off plate for the old pump. So, i guess my plan for the time being is to just gut the pump and leave it. I'm also not sure on how to size the resevoir tank. Is the resevoir tank need to be sized based on certain criteria or can i just use a off the shelf tank. Another thing i would like to do is add a small accusump for pre-lube, but i dont have any knowledge on how good that would work in conjunction with the dry sump or what size would be needed. I'm a major noob in this department since i have zero experience with dry sump setups. I'm only going on what i've researched and what little i've seen in person. Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Brandon You would be better served by having a flange made. The 26 pan is a serious PITA to be cutting up for that. Look at it closely. The oil pump can be gutted and the plate left off. You must block the passage in the block from the pump to the filter outlet or oil will just pour back into the pan. Dry sump tanks are not just storage units; they also act as a swirl pot, among other things. I am a major fabricator, and would buy a tank before I custom built one. You're looking at 15 quarts, minimum. Your pick-up locations depend on how the car will be driven. Please don't say it's a street driver; not with a belt drive dry sump. Pick-ups must also be filtered. Hate to ruin an $800 pump with a little debris in the sump. I know you are set on a dry sump, but the cost of a correctly plumbed system is huge compared to even the $1500 HKS pump. There are HUNDREDS of 9 second GTR's and more than a few 8 second ones running around the streets of Japan with factory-style pumps and a modified sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIZERK Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 ah sweet, i was hoping you would reply haha. I'm just overly cautious about the whole oil starvation thing i suppose. I mainly just want to protect my investment since i'll be dropping a reasonable amount of money on this build, atleast a reasonable amount of money to me. I have no experience with it but I've heard of people attributing turbo failure to oil starvation caused by factory style pumps. Again its only hearsay since i'm a newblet, but i just dont want to risk it. Would it also be necessary to block the old pickup passage? The car will be street driven mainly for the time being but I would like to do some track events and i'll be hitting the 1/4 and 1/8 mile tracks regularly. Thanks for the tips and advice, i appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted April 30, 2006 Share Posted April 30, 2006 I agree with Matt. PITA to cut. I removed the pair of rotors in the stock oil pump. Gotten a Moroso tank, but I like the LS7 tank found in the link below. The World's Baddest Pontiac Solstice (cont.) part# of LS7 dry-sump components oil tank /12603281 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIZERK Posted April 30, 2006 Author Share Posted April 30, 2006 yeah that tank is pretty slick. Would be cool if you could share some more details about your setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted May 2, 2006 Share Posted May 2, 2006 I searched and found that LS7 Engine oil tank 12603281 is pricey:--$988.00 listed. I decided not to use RB26 pan. I'd better use L28 dry sump pan with an adaptor cut from aluminium alloy plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_H Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 I agree with Matt. PITA to cut. I removed the pair of rotors in the stock oil pump. Gotten a Moroso tank' date=' but I like the LS7 tank found in the link below. The World's Baddest Pontiac Solstice (cont.) part# of LS7 dry-sump components oil tank /12603281 Are you dry sumping yours, or just modifying it to a rear sump? Sorry, a little behind on the thread reading. -Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted September 16, 2006 Share Posted September 16, 2006 Bob, I have a power steering pump and a A/C compressor on the driver's side of the engine. I took time to find any room for the pump and gave up. I even tried to put the power steering pump above the alternator. I need A/C in my car because it is too sultry here in Japan. If I could find a good electric power steering system, I might try drysumping again. cut and enlarged the sump of Z31 oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Here is a pic of what i had to do to get the bearing girdle to clear my pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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