tfreer85 Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Okay, so I have a 350 SBC high nickel block FULLY REBUILT from the ground up, bored out, honed, the full shenanigan. However its sat for close to a 1yr to 1.5yrs, without being turned over. It would be a nice motor for a truck or pulling something but not for a Z which would mean me having to open it all back up. I'm looking into doing a 383 or similar build to handle a shot of NO2 or boost of some sort (down the road). Do you guys think I should open up my 350 block, sell off almost all the parts, except the block, and arp bolts, or sell my current SBC complete and start completely from scratch with an aftermarket block or junkyard block (re-machined)? Thanks, Tyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MONGO510 Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 If its not rusted up, run it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Some-Guy Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 Hell ya run it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfreer85 Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 If its not rusted up, run it! its not rusted at all its been stored in a garage in an engine bag, but it still needs a carb, distributor, other misc. things to run. But I feel I would need to replace the main bearings since they have sat for a while. Its kind of a double edged sword, I don't mind selling and rebuilding from scratch, since I would essentially be rebuilding my rebuilt motor. Just looking for opinions on it, I guess what it really comes down to is the 010 nickel block worth trying to save for a performance build? Or is it better to take the money from the sold complete engine to help pay for a new performance block? I mean its not going to be a 800rwhp motor, I'd like to get somewhere close to 450-500ish RWHP so when it comes down to the block is it necessary to go aftermarket for a block? Tyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 What type of heads on the engine?? If they are 2.02, use the engine, as you know the "magic" in SBC is the heads. Just my opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 "I feel I would need to replace the main bearings since they have sat for a while." if it was in a dry garage and in an engine bag,and the bearings were coated with assembly lube or oil, the bearings and internal components have an EXTREMELY GOOD CHANCE, of being in near perfect condition, I have stored spare engines for 15 years with ZERO PROBLEMS, in fact my brother-in-laws vette was stored under a tarp with zero prep for two years and the engine was fine when we started it, and we looked at the bearings shortly after that as we installed a stroker kit about a month later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfreer85 Posted March 27, 2006 Author Share Posted March 27, 2006 Grumpyvette, I fully pressurised the oiling system prior to storage, it was a recommended test by my shop teacher at the time. So that does make me feel better. I guess I could just drop it in and run the big iron behemouth while I build another motor... Paz8, I do not know what the 2.02 heads are, its out of a 1979 Chevy Pickup I just know the 010 on the side of the block. Tyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 27, 2006 Share Posted March 27, 2006 2.02 sbc heads are "camel hump" heads or Fuelie heads from the sixties and seventies, 64 C.C. combustion chambers. 2.02 is the intake valve size. Why not put a good cam and valve springs in and use the motor, if your concerned over the mains, start it up and get it warm and change the filter and oil after 15 min. run time just to be safe. Use an overdrive trans and a 3.54 ratio rear to take advantage of the mid range torque. Just my $.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tfreer85 Posted March 28, 2006 Author Share Posted March 28, 2006 ahh yeah, they are definitely not them, my heads when I cc'ed them came out to 72 or 74cc IIRC. With the .125 dome top pistons, it should have been close to a 9.8:1 CR. The cam currently in it is simple 223/224 @ .50. So what my most recent thinking is to put on one of top end packages from Trick Flow in the Summit Racing Catalog Part# (TFS-K314-500-450), and drop it in. Drive it then build more if I need be, I'm trying not to get caught up into the HP # game. Thanks for the opinions, Tyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alf Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 2.02 sbc heads are "camel hump" heads or Fuelie heads from the sixties and seventies' date=' 64 C.C. combustion chambers. 2.02 is the intake valve size.Why not put a good cam and valve springs in and use the motor, if your concerned over the mains, start it up and get it warm and change the filter and oil after 15 min. run time just to be safe. Use an overdrive trans and a 3.54 ratio rear to take advantage of the mid range torque. Just my $.02[/quote'] Not all "camel hump"(also known as double hump) heads have 2.02/1.60 valves, many have the 1.94/1.50 combo. Here are the casting numbers and head markings for the good GM heads: 3782461(double hump), 3890462(double hump), 3917291(double hump), 040(slanted triangle), 3927186(small double hump), 3947041(slanted triangle), 3991492(small double hump). Even if you don't have any of these heads your engine should still be strong. I've gone low 13s in the 105 range with a set of bone stock 882's with 1.94/1.50 valves and huge 74 cc chambers. The 882s are early 70s smogger heads, not the most hi-po units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 here Motor sat for years, Been drivin for several weeks now. Down for brakes issues right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paz8 Posted March 28, 2006 Share Posted March 28, 2006 Alf, your right about the valve sizes, mine came off a 67 corvette, I know from the casting numbers, the block is a 73 vette. Chevy made so many variations of the small block that there is alot of good original factory parts around, just need to know what your looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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