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Maxima Brackets


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Hi Guys,

 

I ordered this part through a local Nissan dealer (he gave me a very good deal) and the part # is 44155-04S10. I went to our local yard and no Maxima's were available that had the bolt on brackets just weld on types. 1982 and part of 83 the bolt-on brackets were used, I don't know about 1981. These are "very" well made and fit perfectly - yes!!! I naturally had to pop out the stub axle (there is a spacer in there to pre-load the bearings - don't loose it) and remove the old drum setup. The caliper bracket went on like it was made for my 74 260Z. I did need long bolts to mount the bracket and I Loctite them to play it safe. I have read on other posts that machining and redrilling needs to be done to the bracket but this is not the case, at least not on the early 260. The caliper bolt spacing to mount the caliper to the bracket is 4.5" which seems to be a little odd. Most spacings are 3.5" inches or 5.12". I have a set of 1982zx turbo calipers and they bolt right up but I'm still looking some.

 

Getting those brackets off in a wreaking yard will be a challenge. One needs to remove a lot of hard stuff to even get at the brackets. But not impossible.

 

Danno74Z

 

go to this link below to see the bracket in place.

http://www.ideal-z.com/howto/rearbrake.htm

 

[This message has been edited by Danno74Z (edited September 07, 2000).]

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Guys, There are 2 different Maxima brackets. The earlier Maxima braket uses the 79 ZX caliper and the later bracket uses the 81 and up calipers. I found an early style at the bone yard & removed them & bought the calipers. For our other car I purchased the brackets new from Nissan. Removing the brackets at the junk yard was such a bitch that I decided to spend the cash on new ones, my time & energy are well worth it. The only thing I found to be more difficult on these Z's is removing the rear strut from the control arm. I used the part #'s from Ideals site. There bracket is the later one & it uses what appears to be a nicer caliper.

Glenn

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Guys, I have never been able to determine exactly what model Maxima had those brackets. I wasted more time, effort and gas scouring every junkyard in the Orlando area trying to find them. Dont waste your time, order them new. This is not your typical pickNpull part. Half the Maximas I looked at still had the wheels on with flat tires, because no one wants those horrid early Maxima wheels biggrin.gif Ever tried getting the yard to pick up a car so you can see if you want to buy that $10 part? rolleyes.gifrolleyes.gif

 

Ideal made mention that I bought them new but when I wrote the article I should have stressed the fact of how difficult it is to find them in the junkyard. Clint, of the 6 in your junkyard, you will be lucky if even one has the correct bracket. The most common Maxima bracket is not removable, so do not waste your time if you see that.

 

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Scottie

71 240GN-Z

http://www.mindspring.com/~vscott911/gnz.html

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I have a related question about what exactly was different going from the 79/81 setup to the 82/83 setup? Was it the thickness of the rotor, or the offset on the caliper, or the distance between the caliper mounting bolts? Reason I ask is this: I have the JCR 79-81 brackets on my car, and I'd like to eventually remove them and get a better 2 or 4 piston caliper on the rear, and want to know what the difference is!

 

Hard to believe that I have never worked on an 82/83 ZX and have never seen the difference in the brake setups!!!

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Here's my opinion on rear disc brakes, fwiw:

 

The early and late rear discs are probably not much better braking force and fade wise than the stock drums. But adjustment issues go away with discs, and hey, they look a bit better.

 

The early calipers have a large yoke that goes around the caliper. This yoke/caliper is fairly heavy.

 

The late calipers don't have the big yoke, but I hear they need rebuilding often - that's just hearsay though.

 

(In the tech article section, there is a description I wrote up on using the heavy, early caliper/yoke and the late 280ZX rotor, with a flat plate adapter.)

 

Most (all?) racing caliper setups don't have a parking/emergency brake function. I have the early Arizona Z front and rear brake kits. The early AZ rear kit uses a solid, drilled rotor. Both the early and late AZ kits don't have parking/emergency brake provisions.

 

No parking/emergency brakes - that bothers me. So I'm working on adapting Wilwood mechanical spot calipers to the AZ Z bracket with another bracket. This isn't easy, as the caliper is a slider, and the bracket has to have fingers that fit into grooves on the caliper to hold it.

 

I think a good bet would be to find an OE or aftermarket caliper that has a decent pad area (larger than the 280ZX type) and adapt it to the strut housing. If you are really working the car on a road course, I'd try to go with a vented rotor.

 

I think Baer has a rear caliper that has some sort of parking brake provision.

 

[This message has been edited by pparaska (edited September 08, 2000).]

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I have no reason to keep an E-brake since my car has antique tags on it and won't go through a state inspection anytime soon... I'll keep the e-brake lever in place incase I get some scruitany form the local Law, but I'll not put another e-brake on the car.

Pete, you have any part numbers for your kit from wilwood??? also what is the distance from mounting bolt to mounting bolt on your rear caliper mount "ears"????

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

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Hmm some good info on rear disc brakes, I thought I read an article somewhere that someone use ZX discs and did a fairly simple mod to hook up the park brake . Might have to do some digging on that one . A good set of Carbon Kevlar pads will probably suite me with ZX discs . Too bad I didn't hear about the vented 300 setup in the front earlier, before I got standard Toy 4x4 setup .

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Mike, I'll measure the bracket and the parts this weekend, if CRS (can't remember $h!t) doesn't get in the way. If you don't hear from me, let me know. I'll also measure up the hat and rotor, and determine which caliper part number it is. These are standard Wilwood parts. I'll see if I can come up with a vented rotor and caliper part numbers that would also work.

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I pulled mine from an 83 Max because the 81s i checked had welded on brackets. I then used the 79 rotors and calipers, i think...

or were they 83s???

 

If you dont have the time and patience, buy them. They were hell to take off, even with a slide hammer.

Owen

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Guest Anonymous

I had a fairly easy time removing these brackets. I do not know the year group but they are flat and I intend to use them with 82zx calipers. (This will work, right?) My JUNKYARD method used for breaking the torque on the stub axle nut was to punch a hole in the fender well and shove one end of a BIG pry-bar into that hole and place the other end in the wheel studs. Then use a BIG cheater bar on a 1/2" drive breaker bar. My cheater bar was (heh heh) 5'long. Removing the stub axle was originally with a BIG (15lbs) slide hammer. That was too hard. Said screw the stub axle and beat it out from inboard side with BIG hammer. Popped right out after 5th or 6th pound. ...Now when I go to install these puppies I intend use the old stub axle nut to protect the threads and beat it out also. Or, should I play it safe and stay with the BIG slide hammer? Comments appreciated.

Rich

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Years ago, when I first started out, I did the same thing, beat out the stub axle with the nut on it... two months later the nut sheered off on an offramp and I almost totaled the first Z I ever owned.. I was 21 at the time and someone told me not to do exactly what I did...

Get a slide hammer.

 

Mike

 

------------------

 

"I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!"

mjk

 

[This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited September 10, 2000).]

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Mike,

 

I have an 82 ZX, and having just changed the rears, I don't think they'd be up to the task of hauling down a v8 Z. If I were you, I'd go with an aftermarket setup.

 

If you really want to know, according to my service manual, the rears are single piston with 40x8x75mm pads and 258mm dia x 9.6mm thick solid rotors.

 

I didn't have calipers, but with the tape measure, the mounting holes are about 4.25" apart, with a 3/4" distance from the mounting surface to the back surface of the rotor.

One more thing. The calipers look exactly like the ones on my brother's early 90's Maxima. I wouldn't be suprised if they were the same.

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For those of you that have the need to fabricate, I came across this today, a system that uses 82-83zx rear rotors, and 87-90 Sentra FRONT calipers. Should be some bigtime clamping there!

 

AdptPlt.jpg

 

It was from the zhome.com article at http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/RearDisk.htm

 

Hope this helps you out, I wonder how much the increase in rear clamping force would help.

 

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Drax240z

1973 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way!

http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html

 

[This message has been edited by Drax240z (edited September 11, 2000).]

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