JMortensen Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Yeah I'm really thinkin it over. What are cages usually done with? 175+ I'm guessin? They're usually what 3/16"? Z cages for road racing are usually .120, for drag I think they're .134. This is for the main structural parts. Other braces and bars can have less wall thickness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 If you really play with a mig, you'll find that you get a better weld, (penetration, better melding of the parts) if you run proper heat and wire speed. It's hard to explain in writing but if your caking the weld on, then the heat is too low and the wire speed is too high. I typically weld cage thickness with about 175 amps and wirespeed on about a setting of 2 out of 10 on my welder. Welds are low fillets, almost look like tig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Even with a smaller welder, you can weld thicker material. Preparation requries a proper 60 degree bevel with a perpendicular root and you use multiple pass welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TegRacer324 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Yeah that's basically what I was getting out of the guys at the weld shop. Why spend the extra on the 175 when you can juist bevel it. But what's going to required to bevel it? I mean you can't just take a grinder and try to get down to that angle right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 John is right, when I weld 2 inch steel plate to repair my excavator bucket, that is the method that I used. It takes alot of prep to be able to do that in fact I had to have the pieces cut with a plasma cutter on an angle to get the bevel I wanted. I have a 400 amp lincoln LN25 MIG as well that runs off my Lincoln SA300 welder, and I can tell you from experience that having the right welder makes all the difference. Like I said, it depends on what receptacle and power service you have. 220V is cheaper to run, takes less amps and is more efficient. 110V is more convenient. Duty cycle is a concern if your doing a large project like rebuilding a z, at least I would think that anyway. If you aren't doing big jobs, the smaller unit would work fine. How much extra is the 175 vs the 135?? Something to consider since you probably plan on having it a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Yeah, and let me tell you guys it isn't all bed and roses having more than 8 inches. Bigger isn't always better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Yeah' date=' and let me tell you guys it isn't all bed and roses having more than 8 inches. Bigger isn't always better.[/quote'] ROTFLMAO!!!! But I beg to differ on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest TegRacer324 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Yeah I mean I have the 220v in my garage. The 175 is about 70 bucks more. I mean yeah I guess it's worth it. Unfortunately I got my dad in on this too (I'm still in college and he offered to pitch in some for my bday) so he's listening to the welding shop, which I'm not sure exactly what he told them I'd be using this for. I dunno I guess I should head down there this weekend and see exactly what they have to say. I mean I find it hard to believe they're skimping out on selling a more expensive welder anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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