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Do I need this for my RB25DET?


240Z_Master

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I figured this is my Idle Air Control Valve (I'm not even sure on that' date=' but I assume it is).

[img']http://www.livesockets.com/quoc/rb/6_intake_manifold/500/DSC05311.jpg[/img]

 

And this is my Air Regulator Valve for the A/C? (Can I remove this?)

Air_Regulator.jpg

 

 

Can I get rid of the second one? I'm not sure if I need it or not.

 

 

On the AAC unit there is another solenoid, a skinny roundish one, that is for A/C and you dont need it. Obviously, you need the Idle air control valve.

 

I was also curious about the air regulator and played around with it when i was fabbing an intake. Without it, the engine cant keep a steady idle to stay on when the engine is cold.

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HI

You might want to keep the Air regulator it is basicly the "Choke" used for F/I engines, it has a disk inside that is rotated over time (a few minutes when the engine is cold) by a bimetal strip which is heated by 12v being applied to it.

 

When cold you should be able to look through the air passage, and as the bimetal strip is heated by a coil of wire wound around it, the disk will slowly close off the air flow which will reduce the idle speed of the engine after it warms up.

 

The engine will stall when cold if this is not fitted !! please ask if you need more info about this control valve OK

 

I think I have a diagram of it some where if you need it!

 

Also my referance to the "Choke" as not realy accurate as it doesnt add any extra fuel just more Air! it is mounted between the AFM and the manifold so any extra air is measured by the AFM! any extra fuel is added by the ECU based on the engine water temp.

 

I hope I have explained it well enough?

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HI

You might want to keep the Air regulator it is basicly the "Choke" used for F/I engines' date=' it has a disk inside that is rotated over time (a few minutes when the engine is cold) by a bimetal strip which is heated by 12v being applied to it.

 

When cold you should be able to look through the air passage, and as the bimetal strip is heated by a coil of wire wound around it, the disk will slowly close off the air flow which will reduce the idle speed of the engine after it warms up.

 

The engine will stall when cold if this is not fitted !! please ask if you need more info about this control valve OK

 

I think I have a diagram of it some where if you need it!

 

Also my referance to the "Choke" as not realy accurate as it doesnt add any extra fuel just more Air! it is mounted between the AFM and the manifold so any extra air is measured by the AFM! any extra fuel is added by the ECU based on the engine water temp.

 

I hope I have explained it well enough?[/quote']

 

Yeah, I've been reading up some more. But it does go between the intake pipe and the manifold correct? I might have to do some custom piping to make that guy work.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I hope to have something cleared up. Does the air regulator come into play when starting in cold weather or all the time. For instance, is there a temperature at which it begins to be necessary. I guess Im trying to figure out if I drive the car only during the sumer will the impact me.

 

Also ...the AAC valve......can anyone explain how it works to control the idle. I know it hooks up to the ECU but when does it kick in and what does it do? And why is it hooked up to the AC??

 

THanx

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  • 1 year later...

I'm trying to figure out if I really need the AAC at all, or if I can just go around it without having to get an aftermarket ems. I would assume that it hooks into the a/c because when the a/c kicks on, the idle needs to go up a little to compensate. Generally cars just have a little vacuum switch or solenoid to do this. My l24 had one. But of course this setup allows for more ecm control and fine tuning. My l24 didn't have one of those. :P

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The AAC is a cone shaped disk that seals on a conical seat. It is on a threaded shaft, and the ecu screws it in and out to control your idle speed.

 

Scottymiz does not run an AAC on his car, but does not seem to have problems. He runs haltech I think.

 

I have all this stuff hooked up, its my daily and I want it to run as much like stock as possible at idle.

 

Hope this gives some insight.

 

Evan

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I removed mine fom the Rb20 and it starts and runs fine. Mind you I have a Power FC and may have tuned the problems out.

 

does it work ok in all conditions?

 

not that you would be driving it in a hail storm or ontario blizzard anyway, but sometimes you have no choice but to have fun :mrgreen:

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It runs well ....but I have to admit I have never had it out in real sub zero cold weather. I drove it till late fall and it was out on a few coldish mornings. The idle took a bit longer to get super smooth on startup but it wasnt a big deal at all......if you didnt know the car I dont think youd notice.

 

I took the following approach ....try and see. Simple and effective. haha...

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55F...you guys dont know how good you have it!!! I once had to start a VW golf at minus 43C! The clutch froze after I got it into first and I had to run stop signs till it warmed up and released. I was WAY up north so traffic wasnt a big deal.

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55F...you guys dont know how good you have it!!! I once had to start a VW golf at minus 43C! The clutch froze after I got it into first and I had to run stop signs till it warmed up and released. I was WAY up north so traffic wasnt a big deal.

 

lol. water getting in the flywheel inspection hole?

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