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Baseline dyno of my lt1 240z


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well we finally got this thing done enough to drive around town and smash on it a bit

 

My rear front q45 mount I made originally buckled from 1 launch, i totally underestimated the torque

 

I made it by tying the front and rear control arm brackets by 1x1" hollow square tubbing and some mounts going up to the diff

 

THese 1x1 tubes bent in half as the diff pulled them up

 

so I reengineering them using 3" x 3/8" steel bars on each side going front to back to hold them from folding on themselfs, so no way is a 3" bar going to bend wide side up.....so far so good under all hard launches and driving

 

Anyways, we through it on the dyno to get a baseline. The knock sensor is still unpluged so the cel light is on, probably limp mode for now

 

It made:

 

318.9whp

335.9ft/lb torque

 

Power stays positive all the way to 6000rpm where it started slowly droping off to 300whp at 6500

 

torque peak was at 4000rpm

 

Next up is to get rid of the cel light, and tune it with tunercat this week. Hoping for 330-340whp which would be awesome

 

Its a 355ci lt1 rebuilt, lt4 hotcam, 1.6 rockers, sanderson headers, 2.5" exhaust into a 3" single to a baffled flow sound muffler out back. Electric water pump, fan, no ac/no ps

 

Stock heads, tb, intake manifold, injectors, ecu

 

Not too shaby. I ran a 340whp civic hatch, ls/vtec full build with a gt30 turbo and put about 3 cars on him from a stop to end of 3rd gear :D

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Very cool!!

It is nice to be able to enjoy something that you have worked on with your own hands :wink:

I'm sure the civic owner was impressed to say the least!

 

lol

 

my rear exhaust clamp came off when we raced as i shifted to 2nd, and bypassed themuffler, got so damn loud, it was like vtec for a v8, lol...he was like wtf was that?? hahahaa

 

Yeah the instant torque and power just overshadows the high hp 4 banger with a turbo and the lag and peaky power curve...it was an impressive hatch, we dynoed and tuned it a few days before, very fast hatch, just hard to put all the power down efficiently

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Traction wise: It breaks traction in 1st from a roll easily, but is managable if you launch it with careful throttle modulation

 

2nd gear 90% of the time grabs traction and goes, sometimes breaks traction. Any slight bend in the road 2nd will spin

 

What i am most impressed with is even shifting hard to 2nd, just chirps and goes.

 

May be thanks to the 275 width tire and vlsd thanks to the q45 diff along with the extra weight over the rear tires

 

I may get headwork eventually there is this guy in town who does awesome lt1 headwork, my buddy with his z28 with the same setup as mine exactly, PLUS the full headjob AND tuning made 387whp on pump gas through the mufflers and high flow cats!!!

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decent idle, easier tuning and great powerband

 

Its pretty aggressive if you run them with 1.6 rockers like i have and its got plenty of lope i didnt want anymore because i wanted the car to be somewhat civilized not some crazy drag sounding car that barely idled

 

It makes power all the way past 6000 and has great midrange

 

319whp without tuning and cel light on aint half bad...i can probably get 340whp with tuning out of it on stock heads

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CC-TN-221XL Comp Cams TN221XL Camshaft 221/227 duration @ .050", .542"/.560" lift with 1.6 rockers, 112lsa. Excellent cam for stock displacement naturally aspirated cars. Excellent power range, with both good torque and horsepower. $255.70 I'm not against hotcams, but being from the f-body crowd, I know alot of guys use hotcams before realizing there are often more powerful cams that are still very controllable and streetable. All preference though, I'm stock cam atm.

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The only reason I've ever considered a "Hot Cam" is when I looked at the price of a new roller cam (about $250). You can get a "Hot Cam" that is practically new (pulled out of an assembled engine before it was run) for about $150. If you just want a better cam than stock but also don't care for the extra $100 of performance, it's kind of a mid-point, otherwise for a strictly performance build I would not consider it.

 

With that said, you are making some very respectable initial #'s!

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we're gonna tune it with tunercat for max power, then at the end pull the muffler and see what max we can get

 

then maybe do a racegas map on 100 octane with more timing and lean it out a bit and see what we can do

 

After that I will probably get heads.

 

It depends where my job situation goes, if I start making decent money, ive always dreamed of a fully built all motor ls2 409ci 500whp NA, that would be tities

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we're gonna tune it with tunercat for max power' date=' then at the end pull the muffler and see what max we can get

 

then maybe do a racegas map on 100 octane with more timing and lean it out a bit and see what we can do

 

After that I will probably get heads.

 

It depends where my job situation goes, if I start making decent money, ive always dreamed of a fully built all motor ls2 409ci 500whp NA, that would be tities[/quote']

 

Ever thought of attempting a home port-job? There are some lt1 guys that could inform you of fairly safe material to remove. It would be more mild, but cheaper. You can pick up used LT1 heads pretty cheap sometimes too. But yeah, if you have the money, just buy some new heads ;)

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Right on! Good to hear some info on the hotcam.

Are you running aluminum lt4 heads, stock aluminum, or cast iron ones? I am currently installing a LT4 hotcam, roller rockers, springs, in my LT1. I have stock cast iron Caprice heads. I just got the valve guides machined down to allow more clearance - with the new .525 lift the retainers were just kissing the top of the oil seals on the guides.

I've heard rumors that the cast iron Caprice heads flow slightly better than aluminum ones due to better stock flow to make up for the weight of the Caprice. I don't know for sure, that's just what I've read. I just flowed the intake at school and it put out 225 @ .525 lift. Not too bad and the port was very stable. I was unable to flow the exhaust because we only have a setup for non vortec chevy heads. The stock 350 heads that we are using with larger intake valves on our motors at school flow @196 max intake just for information.

I currently lucked out and have two teachers this phase (hotrod phase) and one of them just came from a research and development company who did head porting research for nascar, indy, and boat racing engines. He is VERY informative when it comes to porting. He said that my heads are vortec style and you can EASILY F up the heads if you don't know what your doing when porting them at home. He said he's got many stock LT1 heads into the 250 flow range without much work - @ 2hrs. Stay away from the intake runner all together. You can see a little ridge that runs on the floor of the intake runner and if you mess with that you can really mess the flow up. He told me to hit up the seats VERY carfully just behind the intake valves where there is a flat section and a sharp edge. Also to go ape sh_t on the exhaust side and polish it to a super shin to resist carbon buildup.

He made a big point saying that you can easily port a stock head that will flow BETTER than any aftermarket for less money.

So if you try to port and polish a little by yourself BE CAREFUL and stay away from the intake runner hump and don't mess around anywhere on the floor where there are turns unless you know exactly what you are doing. The roof is a little more forgiving i've heard.

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when I first put my stock lt-1 in my z it did 301rwhp and 325 torque, this was with a custom chip, headers and speed density, stock cam, intake etc. Car ran 12.3 at 112, I should have just left it that way I'd still be drivint it!

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when I first put my stock lt-1 in my z it did 301rwhp and 325 torque, this was with a custom chip, headers and speed density, stock cam, intake etc. Car ran 12.3 at 112, I should have just left it that way I'd still be drivint it!

 

Still driving? What happened to it?

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when I first put my stock lt-1 in my z it did 301rwhp and 325 torque, this was with a custom chip, headers and speed density, stock cam, intake etc. Car ran 12.3 at 112, I should have just left it that way I'd still be drivint it!

 

 

WOW darius back from the dead, lol

 

 

12.3@112 was that on street tires? I am hoping to run solid 11's on drag radials at 330whp. My car weighed in at 2520 with gas in it too

 

I just got a nitrous kit too im gonna start wiring up from dynotune, gonna do a 125 shot

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