240zip Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 What are peoples opinion of various engine management system options for the SR20DET? This would assume a SR20DET running less than 20psi tuned for 91 octane gas. I've been leaning towards the FC Commander set-up. I'd like a 'set-it-and-go' arrangement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR240Z Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 if you like to play nintendo games and things like that go with the power fc unless you get the datalogit program which is seperate and then you can tune by laptop, but i would recommend either AEM EMS, Microtech or Electromotive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Maudlin Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 What are peoples opinion of various engine management system options for the SR20DET? This would assume a SR20DET running less than 20psi tuned for 91 octane gas. I've been leaning towards the FC Commander set-up. I'd like a 'set-it-and-go' arrangement. I'll sell you my Power FC, Commander and Datalogit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Maudlin Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 I went with an Enthalpy tune. http://www.rs-enthalpy.com It was worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 There you go. Buy his Power FC setup with Datalogit. Then you have the commander on the dash for the display, quick changes, etc... but you can fully tune with the Datalogit on a laptop. I love my Tec3. It does a lot that the PowerFC can't. As far as difficulty of installation goes, its a 3 wrenches out of 3. Thats for sure. It's good to have someone around who has done a standalone before. The PowerFC plugs right in and goes... and gives you the ability to tune as you need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR240Z Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 hows the new ecu lewis, hows the car run now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Maudlin Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 New ECU is great. Car runs like a scalded dog. I like the plug and play. Now, I can be pretty sure that any other issues are mechanical. Before, I could not determine what issues were mechanical and what issues were the tune. My only issues are: 1. It cuts out if you get on it before it gets warmed up 2. It spools to about 9 psi, stalls there or drops to about 7 psi, then spools the rest of the way to about 17 psi. I think the warming up issue is common to enthalpy tunes. I think the spooling issue is from a small leak at my ebay BOV. Well, that is what my mechanic says. I have another BOV on order. Any suggestions are appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR240Z Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 are you still runing the mbc or did you get a decent electronic boost controller? You also might want to think about getting an SAFC for fine tuning on the dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Maudlin Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 My main problem is that I haven't had time to jack with it since I have been driving the car every day. I have the passenger's seat removed since I am fabbing brackets for 318 leather seats. I still have the piece of crap mbc from ebay. I am going to remove it this weekend to see if that helps. I doubt that it would be leaking just a little at a time, but weirder things have happened. I think if I remove it completely, I will be fine since the GT2871R is supposed to be wastegated at 14psi. That is enough for street driving for me. I will disconnect it and see what happens. Alex, what BOV do you guys use? I am running bypass so I stick with Greddy Type S, but I don't want to spend the bucks for a Greddy. Should I just fork out the dough and get it done right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zguy36 Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 if you want to dive into the world of engine managment knowledge in a do-it-yourself way, go with the megasquirt. It has the functionality of much more expensive systems for less that a quarter the cost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 yes yes. megasquirt is the way to go! I just got mine running and its pretty cool. few bugts to be worked out, and tuning should be fun, but its driveable now. I think there are a few guys on MSEFI.com running megasquirt on their SR20DETs. I know over on nicoclub.com there is a complete write up to put one on a CA18DET. the SR's and CA's are close, as far as sensors and triggers and what not, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Yep, pretty close. The main differences are in the idle air control area. The basics should be pretty much the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I think the warming up issue is common to enthalpy tunes. I've never heard that before. Are a lot of people complaining about this? Usually any tune using the stock ECU will not be effected by warmup issues. The reason is that tuners don't touch that part of the computer. Are you having issues with it taking too long to warm up or something? Is your radiator fan running full time from the get-go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lewis Maudlin Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 I've never heard that before. Are a lot of people complaining about this? Usually any tune using the stock ECU will not be effected by warmup issues. The reason is that tuners don't touch that part of the computer. Are you having issues with it taking too long to warm up or something? Is your radiator fan running full time from the get-go? No, it warms up just fine. The issue is that before it warms up, the car runs too rich. It coughs and sputters if you give it too much gas. May be a TPS issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 Its possible your coolant temp sensor is bad. I've seen it happen before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 M4 MoTec, thats what my FJ20DET has. Drives better than a factory ECU and goes like a cut snake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
510six Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 If your looking feature to feature the AEM EMS is hard to beat. the boost per MPH and not having to buy a electronic boost controller(AEM uses a $40 GM boost solenoid for controll).I was sold on the system after seeing several Hondas and a couple of Vortech fed Mustangs use the AEM EMS.Plus I plan on running a small shot of N20 to spool the turbo and the ability to add the fuel for the Nitrous via the fuel injectors and just the flexability of the system to do things like pulse a methanol injection solenoid on a port injected setup per lb of boost and be able to fine tune an almost unlimited # of boost settings sold me on the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 The Tec3 can do all that, and comes with full ignition, eliminating the stock ignition system altogether. (which can sometimes be costly and problematic to maintain) Also removing the Cam Angle Sensor, and setting timing mechanically to a permanent point on the crank. I gotta say, though, after playing with the AEM and reading the manuals, I'm damn impressed with what it can do. It's the most tunable of any computer I've played with. However, I'd say it might be the most complicated at the same time. (as far as high end standalone systems go) One thing you can do with the AEM over the Tec3 is run full sequential injection as opposed to phased sequential. This should make it gain a couple of horsepower and possibly get better gas mileage due to better management of injectors. (not that phased sequential doesn't work really well, though) The Tec3 can also run full sequential on a 4 cylinder, but needs to be run with a cam angle sensor as well as the crank angle sensor, or the timing all needs to be read from the cam angle sensor location with an unusually designed magnetic trigger wheel setup. (using a mini wheel and sensor, but it would be right up front on the motor at the top... and probably protrude above the valve cover.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted May 14, 2006 Share Posted May 14, 2006 Motec is arguably the best system in the world, everything else is a compromise for $. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RPSport-John Posted December 17, 2006 Share Posted December 17, 2006 Sorry to dig up an old thread, but i caught this while googling. AEM FTL. Do you really want to go from full sequential to batch injection or ignition. With only 6 dedicated outputs, the AEM fails at being a strong competitor vs the power fc. I do not like the power fc, based on my experiences with the data loggit soft (buggy?) Sollutions? Haltech SR20DET plug and play with base maps! From who else? But us, in conjunction with Haltech of course. Full sequential control, and a boost solenoid better than the aem... i would know, i have been ordering haltech boost controlers to install with aem systems. Check us out, give me a ring, hugh you know steve, ask him how he feels about the haltech (he is running it!) John John@RPSport.net Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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