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brother bought ebay turbo need help.


Guest 2004 srt4

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Guest dan4011

thats ours, if frankie does bring one of his cars ill take some pics of it for him.

anyone have any sugestions on the highest i could safely run the boost?

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Keep the boost low until you can get a wideband and knock sensor on it and actually tune it to an extent. You might want to build one of TheHelix's homemade knock sensors. 8psi is working fine for me without it being tuned, but I'm also certain that I have more than enough fuel under all conditions.

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Guest dan4011

i talked to him today and he seid he also has a 5lb waste gate, he suggested that i get that and a boost controller to turn the boost up a bit. sounds like the best way to do it. what do you guys think?

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Guest 280ZForce

definately go w/ the 5 psi w/g and see if you can get a lil lower price on the kit since it's a smaller psi set w/g. it wouldnt matter if you got the 13 psi w/g if you are gonna get a boost controller anyway cuz you can always turn up or down the boost regardless.

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I've even heard from some people that the N/A electronics are better and more reliable than the Turbo 280ZX Electronics. Some have even converted from 280ZXT EFI to N/A EFI systems on their turbo cars. I think either system can be tweaked or tuned to work pretty well with boost.

 

Search this site for EFI and turbo.

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Guest 280ZForce

yes, you can...just bypass the w/g and then no boost if u have boost controller off as well. :icon56: for long trips or a road trip where you want the best gas mileage.

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should work fine.

 

I hope the kit includes locking out the advance in the distributor. 1975 to 1980 stock compression ratio of 8.3:1 cr used with the stock efi can handle about 24 degrees total with 8 psi of boost and 93 octane. Just set the timing to 24 initial timing and that is where is stays (no mechanical advance). Then use the vacuum advance for off boost throttle responce and better mpg. You can lower the compresson to stock turbo compresssion (7.4:1) if a P79 or P90 head is used on a 75 to 80 block (dished pistons).

 

Also, the fmu needs to be set to about 60 psi of fuel pressure at 8 psi of boost with the stock NA injectors.

 

I made my own turbo kit but I'm currently using 7.4:1 cr and 14 psi of boost. Runs good. I have it tuned now to get about 14 mpg during hard city driving. Tigthening up the afm spring 9 or 10 teeth really helped the turbo spool up quicker and just about doubled the mpg.

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yes, you can...just bypass the w/g and then no boost if u have boost controller off as well. :icon56: for long trips or a road trip where you want the best gas mileage.

 

Without modifying anything physically, turning the boost below the wastegate spring is not an option.

 

How would you go about bypassing the wastegate?

 

I can't see disabling my turbo for any reason. I'd always like the boost to be there when I want it. :burnout:

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Without modifying anything physically' date=' turning the boost below the wastegate spring is not an option.

 

How would you go about bypassing the wastegate?

 

I can't see disabling my turbo for any reason. I'd always like the boost to be there when I want it. :burnout:[/quote']

 

+1. I was wondering the same thing...

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Guest 280ZForce

you can prop the wastegate open (remove spring or unplug vaccuum hose?) for external w/g and for internal w/g you can tie the w/g flap open or leave the actuator disconnected from my understanding and it will not allow you to boost. some people will open it for long road trips for better gas mileage or if they live in a sleek/cold/icy region in certain seasons they will run no boost so it's easier on traction and what not.

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Just so you know, removing the wastegate vacuum line will cause the wastegate to stay shut all the time. (removes the boost reference from the wastegate, it can't tell you're boosting at all)

 

Thats how I tested my actuator yesterday, and hit 20psi before I knew it.

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Guest 280ZForce

ah ok...I'm guessing here. maybe removing the spring for the external w/g then, not sure on the way around it for those ones. but it shall work the way I described on the internal gated ones.

 

but thanx for clarifying the vaccuum hose theory.

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Yep, you can pop the C-clip off the actuator and it will leave the internal wastegate open all the time. That would result in probably zero boost.

 

I guess you could leave the spring out of the external wastegate, so long as you're recirculating it back into the exhaust. If its open... wow, that would be loud to drive :D

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