TheNeedForZ Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Have you tried to use 50/50 mix like I suggested in post#17? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 The only thing i can think of is that maybe my cam is making it run hot since that cam has always been in my car. It's a race cam with power from 3k on. NO WAY! I've run a .490/280 cam for years on a brass radiator. Dan Baldwin also runs a 3 core brass radiator on his car. The cam is not the problem. Worrying about your air/fuel mixture or your camshaft is wasted effort. There is something wrong with your cooling system. Find and fix the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 Good, This will definelty narrow your searches. also i would like to say the type of coolant etc wont effect your cooling this drastically if you decide to use better coolants its like putting a band aid on cancer what type of fan setup are you running is it a pusher or a puller if its a puller thats part of the problem that wont work for **** at any sort of speed. Here are some possibilties. Waterchannel in block is blocked or theres some type of material stopping it from really getting inside the block and into all the crevises,Timing is off, bad tubing somewhere that slows down the flow considerably Kinks blockages etc, exhaust problems, Sticking injectors thats just some stuff i thought might cause it feel free to criticse etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 what type of fan setup are you running is it a pusher or a puller if its a puller thats part of the problem that wont work for **** at any sort of speed. At speed you don't need the fan to be efficient because there is enough flow through the radiator without it. It had better be a puller though since they're mounted behind the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 At speed you don't need the fan to be efficient because there is enough flow through the radiator without it. It had better be a puller though since they're mounted behind the radiator. lol yes, they are a puller setup, and no I haven't had a chance to test with 50/50 ratio as my alt blew yesterday (tuesday) so i don't have the new one in yet. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 ...also i would like to say the type of coolant etc wont effect your cooling this drastically if you decide to use better coolants its like putting a band aid on cancer Well look, there is NO PROBLEM with his cooling system in the first place, he said he just don't like the idea of the engine running at 232 degrees before shut down. I already told him if the engine is not causing any trouble then there is nothing to worry about. If he wants to see the coolant at a lower temperature then fine, I told him 50/50 mix will raise to a lower temperature than a 60/40 mix given the same heat or the same running condition. Do you know why the coolant manufacturer put a lable on their coolant and specifically advise NOT to go over 70/30 mix? Because the engine will run too hot with the stock driven water pump. I don't even say anything without going thru a bit of research and then some guy who don't even read posts just blurp out "oh it's not going to work" and that really pisses me off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 I'm researching adding say a 4" high cfm blower fan in the engine bay to blow the hot air down the tranny tunnel, I think the tranny will take the heat just fine, but the vent temps i recorded are a little high to my liking. As for now the alt is a big problem as i have a bosch alt w/ lifetime warranty at autozone. Turns out they dropped the bosch line and only carry Duralast now. Which is a much cheaper brand, so now i have a 300$ valued alt they want to trade a 200$ alt for. I'm looking into maybe chaning from the 95 Maxima alt to a single wire GM or such. I'll post more in this thead when i get the new alt installed. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HakosukaJD Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 I'm not strong with electricity...but here is how I see it. The car is fine at speed, correct? (I think I saw that) Its hot mainly while idling and fine at speed (when the engine is under far more load)....so the coolant system itself appears to be intact. How long have you had those fans? How much current do they draw? How much is the alt supposed to push? You say it just died...is it possible it was low balling your current and dropping their air draw? Did you have the fans before the fire? Where was the fire? In relation to the fire, is it possible the fan motors may have partially delaminated causing an intermittent internal short which both cause an excess drain on the alternator and a lower fan output? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 I'm researching adding say a 4" high cfm blower fan in the engine bay to blow the hot air down the tranny tunnel, I think the tranny will take the heat just fine, but the vent temps i recorded are a little high to my liking. Have you ever heard of anyone else doing this to fix a warm running issue? You're chasing your tail dude. My final suggestion would be to try the JetSol and maybe a new thermostat before you go to all this trouble. It'll cost you maybe $15. And with that I'll bow out because I'm beginning to sound like a broken record. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Have you ever heard of anyone else doing this to fix a warm running issue? You're chasing your tail dude. My final suggestion would be to try the JetSol and maybe a new thermostat before you go to all this trouble. It'll cost you maybe $15. And with that I'll bow out because I'm beginning to sound like a broken record. I did a couple google searches and froogle, for "JetSol" and "Jet Sol" I didn't come up with anything... I'm guessing this is some sort of cleaning chemical like seafoam? Yeah I plan to try running without the thermostat tomorrow cause then i know it's a problem with the head passages. -Ed As for the fans... I've had them for 2 or so years, they were brand new with the radiator AFTER I rebuilt from the fire. The fire engulfed the front half of my car, I've rewired everthing but the tailights basically. I think i still have some pics in my members album. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I did a couple google searches and froogle' date=' for "JetSol" and "Jet Sol" I didn't come up with anything... I'm guessing this is some sort of cleaning chemical like seafoam? Yeah I plan to try running without the thermostat tomorrow cause then i know it's a problem with the head passages. -Ed[/quote'] Running without the thermostat will tell you if the thermostat was bad, but it won't tell you if the rad is clogged. Doing the temp measurements would tell you that. What did John say? Should be 100 degrees difference from one side to the other? Sorry not Jet Sol. Jet Dry. Diswashing stuff that removes the spots from your dishes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BARACU Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Is your temperature sensor and temperature gauge accurate? I've had gauges that read more than 20* off. AL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Sounds just like a problem we had on a friend's Z. We replaced everything and it still over heated! Even bought a custom 4 row radiator, new water pump, and new fan clutch. Turned out to be a head gasket mis-match. If the head gasket doesn't match the block year, the engine will over heat. The coolent passages in the blocks are very different (n42 vs f45), but the cylinder heads have about all the same passages. You just changed the head gasket on your N42 block. What style head gasket did you use, N42 or F54????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 .... Well look, there is NO PROBLEM with his cooling system Obviously you havent been reading this thread Im not trying to make flamebait i was just trying to help. I know different coolant will make a difference but not that huge of one. From what it seems there could be things wrong with his engine becuase with the setup he is running it should run alot lower than what he said. Btw ignore my puller fan thing i was thinking backwards heh was thinking a pusher pushed air into the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Obviously you havent been reading this thread Im not trying to make flamebait i was just trying to help. Very nice, flaming me at the same time saying you are not flaming. Everything that is helpful has been said before you came along, so there is no need to insist there is a problem and trying to save the day. If you had read what Ed said, you would know his engine runs cool AT SPEED, and you wouldn't even need to ask about the puller/pusher fan question in the first place. I read everyone's comment thus far, so I know for a fact that there is no real heating problem, johnc said not to sweat it. I said if there is no problem, there is no need to fix it. Beside, a warmed up engine runs at 210 degree F anyway(at least my daily driver does), if he used 50/50 instead of 60/40, the coolant temperature will be down to normal range. As long as there is no detonation or overheating, a hotter engine(with hotter coolant circulating inside) is more efficient. Ed, If you want to know the difference between F54 head gasket and regular head gasket, the picture is on page12 of "How to modify..." book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Very nice, flaming me at the same time saying you are not flaming. If you want to take it that way fine all the hell i was trying todo was help i have an opinion and you have an opinion you got angry becuase i had a difference in opinion i Said it wouldnt effect his temperature that drastically as in 30-40 degress obviously since i said that it pissed you off since flaming is needless this is my last post in this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Right now I am too depressed over the Pinks loss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.INSANE Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 okay then i hope theres no hard feelings about this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Yeah sometimes I go overboard. No hard feelings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted May 21, 2006 Author Share Posted May 21, 2006 Ed' date=' If you want to know the difference between F54 head gasket and regular head gasket, the picture is on page12 of "How to modify..." book.[/quote'] You know.. I honestly didn't pay any attention at all to the water passages on the the headgasket when I installed it. It should be common sense that the f54 and N42 have different gaskets, guess i wasn't thinking. At anyrate i have that book an i'll take a look. The gasket in it now is for a 78 so i'm sure it's fine, but i'll have to remember that when i put the f54 back in. Got the alter problem fixed and drove it down the road today to my place. The test drive around the block (about a mile or less) with max speed of 35 mph the temp dropped from 212 to 197 in this short time with cooling fans on. I was reading an 85 degree intake temp(air). Driving back to my apartment later i read about 85-87 air temp inlet. And the coolant was reading around 190 however at a stoplight it creaped up a bit. I feel much better having many of the expert opinions on here comment that 200 is not uncommon in these cars. I took the temp at the bottom of the radiator when i got to my apt and it was reading less than 180, so I'd say i have no worries. I'm gonna get a 10" fan with a little more cfm when i get some spare change before the 100 deg houston temps come. As right now i don't think it would survive an hour in traffic lol. Running without the thermostat will tell you if the thermostat was bad, but it won't tell you if the rad is clogged. Doing the temp measurements would tell you that. What did John say? Should be 100 degrees difference from one side to the other? From my understanding of this post yeah... I think there is supposed to be around a 100 degree drop from inlet to outlet. I'm not real worried about clogged passages as i ran redline water wetter before to kind of "bandaid" the problem and it's supposed to remove deposits etc. as long as you use it with distilled water. I might try the jetdry trick though in the future Thank you again for all the help with this ongoing problem. -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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