v80z Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 While we are waiting for the PINK'S results please offer any and all opinions. Guys I am trying to determine if I need to replace my bearings. Brand new build. My first build with ~100 miles on it. I am changing oil pans and pumps. I punctured the oil filter and let the filterred side drain out. This is what I got. Very small pieces of bearing material. Is bearing material non magnetic? non ferrous? Well I know there is a breakin period and some wear in should be expected but this looks suspicious. The pan oil had alot of assembly lube and some of this in it. The output side of the filter seemed clean relatively at least no metal particles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 It looks like it is a lot of bearing material. Take a magnet and see if it is metal. it looks like bearing material. Since you hve the oil pan off, I would check the main bearings. If they look okay, then I would check the rod bearings. If they look okay, I would check the cam bearings. Did you check your clearences on the mains and rods? You want to look for degrading bearing material, or a lot of scrathes etc...... If any have spun will notice the keepers are gone and the oil holes on the mains do not line up, rods will simply turn and the keepers will be gone. Also look for any heat symptons, the metal will be blueish in color, good luck and please let me know what you find. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Thanks man will do. No heat symptoms I have seen that before in L engines. Have had 2 rod bearings spin before so I know what that is like. Knocking and blue metal. Can I get to all the bearings with the car in? Are the mains most susceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 I would say a rod bearing. If you can drop the oil pan with the engine in the car, you can get to the bearings. The mains would be easy to check, the rods will be to but will be aggervating. I have installed a crank,with the engine still in the car with the pistons, rods and heads installed. You just have to roll the engine to the sweet spot and roll the crank into place. But all of this would be easier if the engine was out of the car. But since it is in place I would check the mains 1st, then each rod. I think you will find the problem. If not then the cam bearings. Did the cam slip right in or was it real snug ?????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 Are you using a flat tappet cam? If so, it is very very important to an oil additive during break-in and thereafter. Engine oil has been re-formulated over the past few years and is now low on some key additives that prevet flat tappet cam wear. Go to CompCams website and check in their tech section on cam break-in. The new oil explaination is in there. Use Diesel engine oil (Rotella) because it still has the right amount of additives. FYI, when a cam starts to go flat, the metal from the lobes and lifters chew up bearings in very short order. And, a new cam can go flat during the break-in period if the additive is not used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Not sure what you mean by flat tappet cam. It is a cam with solid lifters. No I did not use any additives. What is the easiest way to check lifter/cam wear. Drop a rocker and get a tool to leift the lifter out? Take of the intake and snag it? I can see the cam from underneath. Nothing noticeable yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 A flat tappet cam uses flat faced lifters (solid or hyd.). Sounds like you have a flat tappet cam alright. You DO NOT have little rollers on the lifters at the cam interface, right? There is a number of ways to see if the cam has been damaged. Sometimes you can see a bad lobe just pulling off the valve covers and watch for the short moving rocker arm with the engine running. You could also use a dial indicator and spin the engine over to measure lift. Nope, can't pull the lifter out without removing the intake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted May 19, 2006 Share Posted May 19, 2006 That is what he means a solid lift cam, you can try to check the wear pattern from the bottom, but you really need to pull the lifters in order and check them up close. Did you try a magnet yet, any metal other than aluminum? If not I would not worry about the lifters. I think it was the oil pump pickup not being the correct length that caused this issue, if you tighten a main then spun the cranks and did this for each one, you would of felt if the clearence was to tight. On my enigne after all the mains are torqued my engine spins free as like nothing was there, but I do use racing full grove bearings and it is balanced with a high dollar crank ( Callies Stealth ). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 19, 2006 Author Share Posted May 19, 2006 Well Based on the first 2 main caps I am pulling the motor now. Front was not real bad but the 2nd showed grooves on the journal. My fun is building not driving so I am having a great Friday night learning and watching the pinks forum. Now magnetic pieces. Will check the lifters and cam While I have it out. I will keep ya posted. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 20, 2006 Author Share Posted May 20, 2006 Here are the first 2 main caps: Live and learn. Why did I wait so long in life to become a motorhead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted May 20, 2006 Share Posted May 20, 2006 Sorry to see that, I bet you are glad you pulled the oil pan and checked the oil filter, it was fixing to get nasty......... I like the Z by the way, hope to see you SEZ 7.... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 20, 2006 Author Share Posted May 20, 2006 Thanks man it is gutted. Just the basics. It is all ready to pull. Wait for tomorrow to clear some stuff out of the garage so I can move around. Yeah I am thinking of going all the way through it. If I find a spun bearing I will need to check the cylinders as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 22, 2006 Author Share Posted May 22, 2006 Well amidst moving 2 rooms of furniture I have finished the pull of the motor. Just got seperated and on the stand: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 24, 2006 Author Share Posted May 24, 2006 Well the motor is disassembled. Looks like the mains were the only issue. rod and cam bearing look great. Took the crank up to the local machine shop and they said they could turn it or they had a deal on Eagle cast cranks with bearings for $210.00 so that is what I went with. It is a cast crank but has chamferred hole and better cut fly weights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synlubes Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Sorry to hear about the problems Joe. Good to hear you caught it early and it was not worse. A VERY good oil filter is your friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Joe, when an engine dumps a lot of debris like yours has, it's very important to clean the entire oiling system. Disassemble the pump, check it for damage and debris, including the bypass plunger, clean the pickup, take all the oil plugs out of the block, remove the filter base, and clean it all up. Anywhere oil goes is subject to have debris in it, and if it's not cleaned out, the debris goes right to the bearings and starts the whole process over. You can clean the block with a pressure washer and rifle brushes, but it may be better to get your shop to do it, they will have all the correct size plugs on hand. The last thing you want to do is start it up with a bunch of junk in the block. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted May 24, 2006 Share Posted May 24, 2006 Yes, a complete disassemble and wash it down with soap and water would be a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 25, 2006 Author Share Posted May 25, 2006 Yeah it is completely apart now oil galley plugs removed everything blown clean with a heavy dose of WD 40. Got the new crank and bearings. Will start resassembly asap. Thanks for all the input. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruez Posted May 26, 2006 Share Posted May 26, 2006 Sux that you had to tear into it again... but at least you stopped a bigger problem down the road... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 30, 2006 Author Share Posted May 30, 2006 Well we have short block. My new parts washer Hmm Bearings, Lubriplate, ring compressor, marlboros, hmm where is that budweiser Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.