Guest iskone Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 I was thining about doing a cheapie fiberglass fender by just preping a stock fender laying on the glass and pulling it. I realize it would be slightly off but I want to know if anyone has tried it on a fender and made it fit. I could always trim off excess to make it work. Then again it may be cheaper just to buy a used fender and hood. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 There was a guy a few years back who made a hood, front fenders, and maybe a hatch from carbon fiber just by laying them out on top of OE pieces. If you aren't really picky about fit and finish then go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 I think I remember the guy jon is talking about, and IIRC, he did only one or two layers on top (just enough to be able to handle the mold) and then he added layers underneath for strength, and so it wouldn't build up anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 That's where I got the idea. Can't remember the guy who did it though. Building up from the back is a good idea. I'm not too concerned with fit and finish but I don't want it to like like total garbage. It will be for the 72' which I plan to keep as a track only car from here on out. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 any chance it was a guy who had his car at msa? there was a car there that had a bunch of carbon stuff. not exactly show quality stuff...pinholes here and there lemme find the pics... kinda hard to see... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 I think the car was white but he could have painted it. What are those covers for? those seem like strange places for a CAI or relwasing heat. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunar240z Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 you talking about the tail light trim sitting on the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 thats eric's car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 you talking about the tail light trim sitting on the engine? Ehhhhhhh My brain is still in Florida. I swear I think i've slept maybe 40hrs the last 10 or so days. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted May 22, 2006 Share Posted May 22, 2006 Any sugestions about weight of the mat I should use? Should I se 2 seperate weigths? Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boodlefoof Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 I have done what you're talking about. Except that I first built up the fenders with some floral foam to make flares. First recommendation... don't lay the fiberglass directly over the metal. It will stick pretty tightly. First, take some duct tape and cover the metal, then lay the glass over that. The tape will peel off the metal more easily than the glass would. Less risk of cracking your new piece. As for what kind of fiberglass to use, using multiple layers will build strength. I used two layers of 7.5 oz. cloth and then topped it off with two layers of 4 oz. cloth. The finer the weave (smaller weight), the less chance that the cloth will "print through" after you paint it. This made a part that is very rigid. Go slowly and use a stiff bristle brush to blot in the resin, trying your best to keep any bubbles out of the cloth. The more bubbles, the more sanding and filling you will have to do. I have to credit Terry (BlueOvalZ) for the tips and tricks I learned about doing this sort of thing. Thanks again! Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 It sticks on the metal huh. I was planning to use mold release or wax/polish on the metal surface. I don't think I could get a smooth surface with tape. I'll see what other options I have. Thanks for the tips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chewievette Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 There are mold releases that work quite well for this sort of thing. Your body lines probably wont ever line up quite right but if its a track only car who cares? I'm very interested in how this turns out for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest iskone Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 Do you guys think that I'll have problems with 2 layers of the 4oz as far as keeping it's shape when I go to add the 7.5oz from behind? I thought uscomposites use to sell a kit. I'll be ordering things tomorrow it looks like. I think I'm going to satrt with the hood for a few reasons. It should be easier since it's flatter, saves more weight, if it's very time consuming and a PITA I'll just buy the 1 fender I need. It is something I've wanted to try for a long time though. Isk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280Zone Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 To avoid sticking just use PAM cooking spray. Very easy to use since in comes in a spray can, and very inexpensive, and it smells good. I don't use that on my hoods but have used it for small parts quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1 240Z Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 use the garlic flavor, it tastes great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tri-Star Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 ...why not spay sum on the roof and cook some eggs on it outside while u work this is an awsome idea if i get the money to start a new project car for race only ill def be doing this too. You could prob do this a few times get good at it and sell it to members making track cars too. just an idea. keep us updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zr240 Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 HI guys yer I have been thinking of tring some carbon overlays fo a while check out this site for more tips on it http://www.fibreglast.com/VBulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=14 Ash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nope Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 another alternative to duct tape is aluminum foil applied with light spray adhesive and a plastic spreading tool. then put your mold release of choice on that. the foil is really thin and works well with any contour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tony78_280z Posted May 23, 2006 Share Posted May 23, 2006 I made a cowl this way. I used the cheap walmart bondo cloth and resin. I sprayed the original cowl with pam, then put the first layer of the cloth down and only spread resin on the top (not the side touching the metal) then after it dried I peeled it up and put additional layers underneath including some of the heavier matt for stiffness. The finished piece looked better than the original rusty cowl, but it does have some flaws. I'm pretty sure I can get these fixed the next time. When I do it again I will put down two layers of the fine cloth before peeling it off of the metal as it lost a little of its shape with just one layer. Also, don't be stingy with the hardener. I learned that lesson the hard way, or not so hard way as it took DAYS for some areas to dry completely. And I do plan to stick to the cheap bondo products. My stuborness I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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