HB280ZT Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 OK guys. I have been working on my car off and on for about a year now and I have been having fun racing it when I can (autocross and 1 track day so far). The car is a daily driver to that should limit some of the things that I can do to it. I also plan on racing it more this year to hopefully include more track days. Here is what I have done so far: New springs – 180 Front and 200 rear (Arizona Z) Struts – KYB gr2 I think Sway bars – 1 1/8 front 7/8 rear Brakes: Front – Wilwood 4 calipers (Arizona Z) Rear – disc conversion 15/16 master cylinder Proportioning valve PDK strut bars front and rear Adjustable LCA’s and T/C rod Poly bushings all the way around 82 turbo Z motor, tranny and rearend (3.90) Intercooler Oil cooler Cold air system 3 inch mandrel exhaust with high flow muffler MS&S-E V3 Other engine and turbo mods BFG 225/50R15 G-Force Sport tires (work pretty good on the track) G-Force 4 point harness Roll Bar So my question is what should I do next? 1 – Sticky tires, Kumho Victor racers, 700, 710 etc. 2 – Adjustable rear control arms, MML 3 – Koni 8610 adjustable struts 4 – Better Seats??? 5 - ??? I know the nut behind the wheel needs help but I am working on that with a stick every chance I get!! Thanks for the help! HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted May 30, 2006 Share Posted May 30, 2006 Tires are HUGE. Problem is if you get the tires and are still running a stock seat good luck holding on... A seat also makes a HUGE difference. I'd suggest that as your next upgrade from the list you provided. The first time I put DOTs on my car I had a friend driving it and there was a long right hander into a slalom that was the fastest corner on that course. He came back in laughing and told me he had fallen out of the seat and had gone all the way around that turn slammed up against the door, and that was despite the 4 point harness. You can get a racing seat fairly cheap. I got my Ultra-Shield for $225. I've got some pics here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103817 The padding is supportive enough that I honestly think it would be OK for a daily driver, and the side bolsters aren't so huge that you need a removable steering wheel to get in and out of the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 Alignment Have you been to the scales. Set the corner weights using tire pressure. Tires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted May 31, 2006 Share Posted May 31, 2006 I can't be happier with my Hoosier slicks - fun factor is HUGE. By far the biggest improvement. If you are not interested in being competitive in your class but just looking for the fastest raw times this is the way to go. Thanks Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted June 1, 2006 Author Share Posted June 1, 2006 Thanks for the information. I have been thinking about new seats but I have not found what I am looking for. Mostly because I want to seat in them before I put out and money on seats. So for now I as still looking. As for alignment I have had my car on some scales last time I was at the track. I also have a custom setup on my car with 3 deg caster and 1.5 deg camber. I can put more caster in but I am getting to the point that I may have to either bend the forward edge of the fender or try something else. As for camber I think I can go to about 2 deg with the current setup I have. If I want more I will nee to build another set of LCA's. As for tires I am leaning towards Kumho victor racers or the 710. However is rear camber important in a race car?? So again thanks for the .02! HB280ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Rear camber is important and you want less neg camber in the rear IME by about a degree. The problem is that just lowering a Z gives you a BUNCH of neg camber in the rear and not much at all in the front. You'll probably need to run the rear camber plates quite a bit up from the max setting, and the fronts at the max setting. I ran into the same problem and had to go with custom control arms to get the camber I wanted. More caster will help a lot in the front end. You can also make two marks on the one of the tie rods, one at 1/8" toe in (street) and one at 1/8 or 1/4" toe out (race). Then you just adjust it at the autox. Just do it on one side and that way you don't have to screw around as much. Just takes a minute to do, and it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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