RB26240Z Posted June 7, 2006 Share Posted June 7, 2006 I removed the front pulley fron the RB26, and there is another pulley which the belt goes around. How can I remove that ? so I can pull the oil pump out. I looked in the R32 manual that I have, but didn't see any reference to it. Thanks Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumnhammer Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 I used a steering wheel puller, basically a bar that has two slots in it and a threaded center section that has a bolt in it. You run two bolts through the slots, into the threaded holes in the front of the pulley and then run the center bolt down until it pulls the pulley off. Chris Rummel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26240Z Posted June 8, 2006 Author Share Posted June 8, 2006 Are you talking about the pulley with the teeth that the timing belt goes around? cuz, I don't think there are any threaded holes. The pulley has the threaded holes and is completely out, the piece that I am talking about is smaller and right on the crank. Thanks for the reply Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 8, 2006 Share Posted June 8, 2006 I just used two flat head screw drivers, between the belt gear and the pump, and wiggled it outward. Mine slid off real easy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111550 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators SuperDan Posted June 9, 2006 Administrators Share Posted June 9, 2006 or... you cuss, swear and go to your local Nissan dealer, leave a depost for the special tool need to remove the damn thing. It's the same one they use for the VG30's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-Z Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 or... you cuss, swear and go to your local Nissan dealer, leave a depost for the special tool need to remove the damn thing. It's the same one they use for the VG30's Dan, The gear on the RB26 crank I sold you came off with my bare fingers. I started to push 2 screw drivers behind it and just slid off. Since you were taking apart a RB20, are you building a RB24 by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 Mine came off easy...beacuse it had cracked along the keyway. I had to use a wheel puller to get the one off my other engine that was on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators SuperDan Posted June 9, 2006 Administrators Share Posted June 9, 2006 Since you were taking apart a RB20, are you building a RB24 by any chance? Shhhhh..... BTW, CP will make the pistons for $700.00, alot cheaper than the Tomie's $$$$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26240Z Posted June 9, 2006 Author Share Posted June 9, 2006 Thanks guys, will try tapping couple of screws and pull it. Henry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z_cars_rule Posted June 9, 2006 Share Posted June 9, 2006 Shhhhh..... BTW' date=' CP will make the pistons for $700.00, alot cheaper than the Tomie's $$$$$[/quote'] god damn thats good news, i was gonna do just a basic rebuild next year because i could not afford the tommei kit, now i might just get these and get the instuctions from someone else on where to recess the block for the GTR bottom end. oh and i am getting some nice 260/270 cams for it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators SuperDan Posted June 10, 2006 Administrators Share Posted June 10, 2006 god damn thats good news, i was gonna do just a basic rebuild next year because i could not afford the tommei kit, now i might just get these and get the instuctions from someone else on where to recess the block for the GTR bottom end. From what I understand the block just needs to be notched at the bottom of the piston bores to clear the rods, about 1-2 mm of metal needs to be removed. My machine shop dude quoted me ~$175.00 to hot tank, check, bore, hone and clearance the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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