Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Ok, I have located 5 t56 around me, including surrounding states. The question I have, is which one's, will or will not mount up to the chevy 350 block. My block is out of a 78 pick up(it's brand new though). Now, if I recall, chevy didn't change the block at all till this last year, that's why they are so cool to work on. I got Mike Kelly's article on his t56 and noted that I'm looking for a 94-97 t56. I'm pretty sure they both are that. one is 1000 complete, but i think it's out of an lt4, does that matter? and the other is 1450 out of an lsl ( I think, had to run up to the lab, so I couldn't carry my papers) Anyway, anyone who knows these stats would be greatly appreciated. All of the one's I have found, are all complete, (shifter, clutch, ect) I know I won't be using all of it, but some of It I will. If I can get this info, I'm gonna swoop up on one this weekend, Might have to drive to Houston to get it, but oh well, road trips are always fun. Thanks guys. Sean ------------------ "I feel the need, the need for speed!!" "Don't hate the player, hate the game!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviatorx Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 DON'T take the T-56 from an LS1 as it has a different bolt pattern than LT-1's and older SBC's. You should be OK with T56's from 93-97 model years bolting up to your engine. When in doubt, make a pattern off the back of your block and take it with you......could same you from a $$$ mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Sean, As stated in Mike's tech article, the T56 you want is from a V8 94-97 F-body. These are the 2.66 first gear models rated at 450ft/lbs. They will bolt up to any small block Chevrolet with the exception of the LS1, which of course has its own specific T56. The T56 from a 93 F-body will work as well but has a higher first gear and is rated at 400ft/lbs. If you are using a 1978 model 350 you will need to use a zero balance flywheel. I believe Chevrolet did not go to externally balanced small blocks until 1986 (please, someone correct me if I am wrong) with the exception of the 400. Centerforce or McCleod can provide you with the flywheel for your application. Also, RAM makes a nice "LT1 stock replacement" clutch that I have read good things about and it is only $299.99 from Summit. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 I didn't know the 86' later were externally balanced. I do know they went to a 1 piece rear seal and the rear of the crank changed to a smaller 3" diameter (or there abouts). As Chris said, you'll need the Centerforce flywheel (I paid 264.00 at Racesearch.com, probably available from Summit although it wasn't in they're online or paper catalog.) The Centerforce part number for pre-86 SBC using 93-97 T56 trans is #700107. Not sure if there are any other flywheel choices at the moment, I wasn't able to find any. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 22, 2001 Share Posted February 22, 2001 Anothe rplus about that flywheel to note - it's SFI rated. I was attempting to use an LT1 flywheel with my 383 stroker crank and one piece rear seal block - no go! Seems the crank will fit that block but that it uses an old style flywheel. Anyway, the engine builder actually said that with as much HP as I was going to push he was much more comfortable with an SFI flywheel on there than th estock LT1. I was sold the flywheel at his cost direct from Centerforce - $250. Since there are as yet no blowshields for this trans and only a rumored trans blanket that I know about - an SFI flywheel isn't a bad idea if you're gong to beat on the engine at all... Food for thought... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 Hey, factor this if you are using a early 2 peice rear main block you may be better off using the LS1 T56. The block mounting pattern is the same except of there is a bolt hole straight up and the right upper bolt hole is eliminated (one could be welded on). The LS1 T56 also has an input shaft that is .400 longer than the LT1. this is good because if you use the LS1 belhousing and a .500 adapter between the trans and belhousing. You can use a push clutch, yes a normal push clutch, like the LS1 and every other chevy except the LT1. This will save you alot of money over the flywheel and the cost of a pull type clutch. Depending on the depth of your flywheel and clutch combo you may even be able to use the LS1 hyd. throwout bearing in the stock position. Now I didn't come up with this but I have a write up from a freind who did do it. I will forward you a copy and anyone else how wants one. He is also having the spacers made if anyone wants one.....FYI.... BTW if you find a T56 out of a LS1 under a grand with the belhousing and throwout bearing, let me know I don't need the clutch or the flywheel.. Later Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 23, 2001 Share Posted February 23, 2001 Is that why the clutches for these things cost so darned much? They're "special"? Figures! At least the stock clutches are decent from the factory... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 24, 2001 Share Posted February 24, 2001 I think they're expensive just because of comparatively low production numbers. I know one thing, I just got my flywheel and Ram clutch kit today and the pressure plate on the T56 looks like no pressure plate I have ever seen before. The disk looks the same, but the pressure plate looks alien compared to a regular old push style 4/5 spd clutch. The centerforce flywheel is a great looking unit, pretty heavy. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 25, 2001 Share Posted February 25, 2001 Well, I pulled out my Centerforce clutch today, put in my pilot bearing, and began bolting it up - tight fit! I used the flywheel bolts to walk it down, better tight than loose. This is one of the funkiest looking flywheels I've ever seen, 2nd only to the OEM flywheel I took off before! I then checked out the clutch and pressure plate more closely. The clutch disk itself may have a little more wear than I'd originally anticipated (sigh). The rivets look awful close to the friction surface but th epressure plate and old flywheel show no grooving. I do NOT want to spend $525 smackers on a damned clutch. I do not believe I need an ultra trick clutch for a car that's this light with about 450HP! Can I reuse the stock pressure plate with a decent disk? The disk looks "standard" and I know the size and splines thanks to the Jeg's catalog. Can I simply order up a disk? Do I need to do anything to the pressure plate? I've always replaced pressure plate and disk as a unit in the past - can pressure plates be resurfaced like flywheels? Who's disk is reasonably priced and better than OEM? This wasn't a problem I'd been anticipating darn it.... TIA! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted February 25, 2001 Share Posted February 25, 2001 BLKMGK, you might want to find a clutch rebuilder. They should be able to disassemble and resurface the PP. Then again, if it's smooth and flat, a brake glaze breaking disc on the drill motor to break the glaze and put a swirl pattern back on the disc might be the way to go. Oh yeah, see if you can get a dual friction disc from McLeod, etc. That'd give you a bit of margin on holding power with the stock PP. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted February 25, 2001 Share Posted February 25, 2001 Jegs has a clutch made by Hayes #490-85-112 that's 11 inches X 1-1/8 w/26splines. Cost is $249. Those measurements match up with the DF clutch listing from Centerforce. Not sure that it will fit but..... Need to research this more - unfortunatly I'm to the point where I need to get this done! Didn't someone mention another clutch not long ago as being a good OEM type replacement? Guess I need to hit the FBody boards some huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted February 27, 2001 Share Posted February 27, 2001 Hello everyone, Ok, couple questions. 1) what does a two piece seal look like when you pull the tranny, so I know what type of fly wheel to get? 2) What determines the number of tooth fly wheel I should get? 3) I bought a 97 t56 out of an lt4 Firebird, can I use the stock clutch and master cylinders, or should I change them? If changing them, what does everyone recomend and why? 4) Does this tranny require a spacer like the ls1 does(I read that article that someone forwarded to me)? 5) Can I use the stock z line for the hydrolic, or should I get one made using braided brake line like you did Mike? 6) anything else I should know? I don't know if anyone has done this in a zx, so if you have any advice would be much appreciated. If no one has, I'll be sure to take pics, and tell of all the problems. I'm working on putting a web site up for zx's and am planning on taking pics of everything when I pull the engine out to do this swap. Let me know what everyone thinks. Talk to everyone later Sean ------------------ "I feel the need, the need for speed!!" "Don't hate the player, hate the game!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 27, 2001 Share Posted February 27, 2001 Use the 153 tooth unit and the camaro starter. I'd also recommend making your own line and having it done with the -3 or -4 ends, and tapping the body of the slave cylinder. I'd also look for the steel bodied unit if you can find it. You also have to use the Tilton master cylinder... 7/8th bore. Mike Kelly ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk [This message has been edited by Mikelly (edited February 27, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted February 28, 2001 Share Posted February 28, 2001 wrenchhead.com sells a slave cylinder for the t-56 and the t-5 its about 50 bucks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Scott Posted February 28, 2001 Share Posted February 28, 2001 Your 78 block will be a 2 piece design, unleess the unlikely 86 and newer design has been added with requisite adapter. For production crankshafts '55-85 use the 2 piece seal with 3.58 bolt pattern, the '86 up are one piece and 3 inch. JS [This message has been edited by John Scott (edited February 28, 2001).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted March 1, 2001 Share Posted March 1, 2001 John, Ok, i feel dumb asking this question, but how can you tell once you pull the engine out, if it's a two piece, or a one piece? I'm pulling it out next weekend, and gonna make sure it is one or the other (the engine was a brand new one from GM) built for the replacement of a 78, That is why I'm asking, don't want to mess it up. Thanks for the info, oh yeah, is there a way you can for sure tell the t56 is an lt1? not the ls1? Thanks Sean ------------------ "I feel the need, the need for speed!!" "Don't hate the player, hate the game!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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