HICKL Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 I just put a Tunnel ram with 2 holley 450's on my Z. Got it fired up last night. Don't know how it's going to perform but it looks nasty. I have a short video clip of it idling in the driveway (about 8 meg), but have no place to host it. Can I e-mail it to someone and get it up here? Thanks Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 You can use www.streetfire.net, and put the link on this site. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 ahhhhh you did it! gonna need that big cowl hood now! hahah awesome! mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 Thanks. Tell me if it works! http://videos.streetfire.net/video/50f99411-ce65-476d-b30d-fc78dfe1c843.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Yes the link works, it sounds good and throughty. I am a big fan of dual carbs and a tunnel ram. That is what I used to run before stepping up to a blower / supercharger. Just to mention if you have not done it, besure to check your vacumm as far as power valves, you might have to go with a smaller ones or block them off. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 22, 2006 Author Share Posted June 22, 2006 Thanks John, please expand on the vacuum comment. I got the carbs (450 CFMs) off e-bay from a guy who was runing them on a SBC stroker. I just slapped them on there and fired it up. Hopefully they are pretty close but I have not tuned them at all. This kind of setup is new to me so I don't even know where to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 Cool!! All you need now is a hole in your hood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 Hoods? Hoods? WE DONT NEED NO STINKIN HOODS! I actually picked up a spare with a little rust on the front that I will patch up and cut a hole in. I do kinda hate to cover it up though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 I also love the way a correctly tuned dual quad set up sounds and runs, dual quads are seldom used in my opinion mostly becuase most guys won,t take the time to learn how to tune them, its not because theres any power loss! in fact I regularly make excellent power with dual quads the problem is NOT tuning the dual quads, that can be done very easily with experiance , the reason many low rise dual quad systems don,t make the potential peak power is the RUNNER length, twisting routes,and differant runner lengths/ design and cross sectional area of the intake designs, like this which,while they work great in the mid rpm ranges don,t produce peak power the design tends to restrict/break up, air flow and the ram effect that pacts the cylinders at high rpms and effect flow rate changes beween cylinders compared to a single plane design with its LONGER and STRAITER ports but there are dual quad intakes with longer/straiter runners THere ARE EXCEPTIONS that work reasonable well! like the cross ram intakes above! read this http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/intake-tech-c.htm now THATS not true on the better TUNNEL RAM intake designs BUT hood clearance and thier designed effective rpm range cause them to be less than IDEAL on the average street car the reason DUAL QUADS were popular years ago was that large flow CFM single 4 barrel carbs were not available,at that time,HOLLEY had not yet produced the DOMINATOR carbs, that could flow 1250 CFM,if your engine needed 850cfm-1200 PLUS cfm, in the early 60s you were either using a DUAL quad or similar multi carb system or you were NOT getting the flow rates you needed,or you were stuck with QUADRAJETS, or the smaller HOLLEYS in most cases and yes your correct two smaller carbs with eight throttle bores can and do allow a very precise high velocity port flow when properly set up,Ive had several engines running dual quads run VERY respectable times in the low 10s, in a STREET DRIVEN CARs once SLICKS and OPEN headers were used at the track Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 how YOU start start by checking for vacuum leaks,and setting the acellerator pump shot to maximum,and BY JETTING ALL 8 carb VENTURIES THE SAME AND SETTING UP BOTH CARBS TO OPEN EXACTLY AT THE SAME RATES. (personally I prefer to set all 8 venturies open equally for racing) you need to equalize the flow rates and minimize the turbulance and fuel/air distribution potential problem areas, BTW heres where a infared non-contact thermometer helps diagnose mixture problems very quickly, but youll need one that reads into the 1400F range for the headers for quick diagnoses you can forget about vacuum advance on the ignition or vacuum brakes as the readings will be low on any correctly set up system, youll also need to learn a slightly differant launch tech. as you generally can,t FLOOR the carbs and hang on, youll need to push the petal to the floor slightly slower allowing the engine to smoothly transition http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 Great stuff Grumpy, I can't wait to get some free time to start studying. Have basically bolted the thing up and drove it around the block. I did check my vacuum last night. My 450's have one vacuum port (pretty high up on the body) but my results were strange. One carb was showing little to no vacuum (maybe 1 or 2 psi) and the other was pulling about 12 psi. Again, I haven't even turned a screw on these things as I really wasn't sure where to start. All in all, it runs good, idles good and takes off good. I have already figured out your comment about you can't stomp it, but if you roll into it it sings! thanks Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 a infared non-contact thermometer helps diagnose mixture problems very quickly' date=' but youll need one that reads into the 1400F range for the headers for quick diagnoses[/quote'] Man, thats a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 tunnel rams generally run best with a tight 104-106 lca and a durration in the 230-250 range, Ive had excellent results with the CRANE 110921 on 350- 383s but youll need about 10.5:1-11.5:1 cpr and 3.73-4.56:1 rear gears , and a manual trans or a 2800rpm-3200rpm stall converter to get the full benefits http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&action=partSpec&partNumber=110921&lvl=2&prt=5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnutthehutt Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 Grumpy, do you have a cheat sheet you work off of when giving us advice on here, or are you just pulling specs, numbers, and the like out of... thin air? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 LOTS of notes from 35 plus years of previous engine builds and EXPERIANCE, plus having worked on literally hundreds of muscle cars helps WHY? have you ever found ANY advice to be WRONG?? btw the whole object of using a tunnel ram is to MAXIMIZE the cylinder fill efficiency in the 4000rpm AND ABOVE rpm range, useing direct port ram tuning so the cam timing must match that rpm band and the compression must match the cam timing for it all to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wingnutthehutt Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 No, that's the thing, I always find your advice to be right, or if I don't get to find out for myself, it at least SOUNDS right and is easy to understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/1071/ http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/carbtuning/carbtuning.htm http://www.bob2000.com/carb.htm http://www.mortec.com/carbtip1.htm http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/mufp_0501_carburetors/ BTW Ive owned and used several differant AIR/FUEL ratio meters,while they work they are difficult to hook up correctly and generally a P.I.T.A. heres where a infared non-contact thermometer helps diagnose mixture problems very quickly, but youll need one that reads into the 1400F range for the headers for quick diagnoses http://www.professionalequipment.com/xq/ASP/ProductID.3461/id.22/subID.177/qx/default.htm temperature range from -58 to 1832°F I use this one (above) and youll need to learn how to read plugs (this may help) http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/showfla...rue#Post1448415 heres A/F http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/rsrgauge.htm http://www.mummbrothers.com/SRF_Stuff/Secrets/Driveline/Air_Fuel.htm http://www.airfuelmeter.com/english/ http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php http://thedynoshop.net/prod01.htm http://www.dawesdevices.com/airfuelmeter.html http://fastrides.com/articles/DoItYourself_AirFuelRatio_Gauge.html http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products/Information/AirFuelMeter.asp http://www.3barracing.com/product_3.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 This seems strange to me, I was checking my vacuum yesterday and at idle, I get about 8 psi at the manifold and between 1 and 4 at the carb (depending) on which one I check. Anyway, when I rev it up, the vacuum climbs. I didn't go WOT but the more I revved, the more vacuum it pulled at both locations. That's not right is it?? Grumpy, I have not checked my power valves yet to see if that's why I have the low vacuum on one carb. Maybe tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HICKL Posted June 26, 2006 Author Share Posted June 26, 2006 Oops, I was just reading on Edelbrock's web site and under my manifold it list that the 9776 holley (what I have) is used for sideways mount only. I have mine mounted straight. Can someone explain why they would have to be sideways mounted? Dang I made some nice linkage parts that won't work if I turn them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 is your intake manifold manufactured by EDELBROCK??? or a differant manufacturer?? carb mounting locations and clearances DO VARY between manufacturers example, some weiand intakes have greater spacing and allow either mounting style I mount those carbs like you have done, but on some intakes THEY won,t fit due to clearance issues, so you need to mount sideways like the DOMINATOR CARBS as to the vacuum readings going up, thats NORMAL if the carbs are opening slightly slower than the engines rpms and intake port requirements build due to the increased rpms (a good thing on the street) but you MIGHT want to increase the rate the carbs open on a race application,as it indicates a slight restriction to flow(TEST/TUNE & EXPERIMENT)generally youll WANT the intake to pull a MINIMUM of 1-1.5 inches at full W.O.T. (venturies fully open)for a street car, and it usually won,t hurt much on a race car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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