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something in my valvetrain is making a noise!!! video inside!


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Engine: L26, SU's, header...mild motor.

Since I have owned my z there has always been a slight noise coming from the valvetrain. I have started it after it has sat for the last two months and there is a very loud clacking sound coming from the #4 cylinder.

here is a video. You can hear it plainly different from the rest of the car.

HELP!!!! What is the noise! I hope something is not stuck in the valve or the rocker arm is loose. I need this car to be operational soon.

Thanks

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pulled the valve cover and everything looks ok...makes me feel bad about my shortblock...I am suspecting either a valve is stuck or something else much worse. Looked in the #4 spark plug hole and the piston looks fine from what I can see. I may go ahead and pull the cylinder head today if I can't see anything else wrong. I may just put it on jackstands and pull the pan first like you suggested Oliver...

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it's a standard 4 speed. I am gooing to do just that. I just went about 12 miles of mountain biking today so I am pretty winded...I'll do a compression check too. If the compression check fails then off comes the head...maybe I'll just pull the motor...I've never disassembled my engine past removing the valve cover or any motor for that matter.

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Guest Abkshelby79280ZX

I'll take a guess. Could it be your timing chain rattling? I don't think it's anything in the bottom of the motor.

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nope...it is coming from the #4 cylinder...definitely not from the chain...plus the chain is fairly tight...

My dad's 944 had a bad chain so I know what that sounds like...

I am tending to think it is something with the piston. I think the piston is ratteling on the wrist pin or the connecting rod is.

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just turned the motor the hard way. I put the car on jackstands, unhooked the E-brake cable on one side, engaged the e-brake, had my Dad turn the other wheel while the car was in 4th.

I tested teh vacuum and it was around 42cm HG on all of the pistons except #4 and #1. The #4 was the worst at 35cm HG. The #1 was at 38cm HG vacuum.

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That doesn't sound good at all....kind of like somebody changed your oil with a handfull of nickels...I really don't have any advice though, hope you can figure it out. It doesn't sound very regular, like a valve event should, it sounds most to me like something is bouncing around. I'd say pull the pan (all thirty of the pan bolts) and check it out...Also see if you can get the clutch inspection plate off and see if anything happened in there, I saw a guy's pressure plate lose a spline once and it sounded kind of like that...

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I am about 95% sure it has to do with the #4 piston. I used a mechanic's listening stethoscope (like what a doctor uses except for mechanical stuff).

I have pretty much scratched out driving my car down to college this fall...and since that is the case...I am going to go buy a engine stand and rent an engine lift. The engine may be out soon. I can't get to all of the pan bolts while the motor is in. I took about 10 minutes to get the drivers side steering rack bushing on and about 4 hours for the passenger side one. I am just to the point where when I pull the oil pan off and there is anyhting wrong I will rebuild...there are enough things wrong and horsepower is addictive...I may have a 300, 310 a 320z next year...probably just send the short block off to rebello or to do their magic.

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I can't get to all of the pan bolts while the motor is in.

 

Yes you can. I did it, and you can too! The oil pan bolts will come off, maybe with a wrench on some of the ones behind the crossmember. Once the oil pan is off the block, stick your ten wrench in and undo the bolts holding on the oil pickup tube/ strainer.

 

Oh, And I say you should rebuild your own engine, not pay rebello too much money to do it for you.

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true...I have been thinking about it...since a shop has never touched my car since I bought it... Except a tire shop and I watched them very carefully. I just need to figure out what parts I need to make a good 280hp NA...I like turbos but I want this car to be a NA car...someday a track car...

I'll drain my oil tomorrow and pull the pan.

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one thing before you tear down your engine did you do a compression test across all 6 cylinders. First see if there is a problem with your number 4 that way. I believe in checking things out as much as possible, to find the problem then fix the problem, not just dive in and take the engine apart and try fixing something you are not sure what it is.

 

Also yes you can pull your oil pan without removing your engine, any suspension, or any thing but the oil pan screws. You will need a 10mm small socket wrench and a 10mm open end/closed end wrench, 2 flat screwdrivers, and a straight razor blade. I have done this many times and never had a problem with it. Simply remove all the 10mm bolts and pan support steel, use the two flat screwdrivers to work the back of your pan loose (might need the razor here a little to get it started), and just work it loose, once the pan is loose you will need to slide it and twist the rear towards the drivers side and it should be out. After all that use the razor to clean all the surfaces very well.

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I don't have a tool o test compression so I did a vacuum test and 4 of the cylinders read in the 40-42cm HG vacuum range. The #1 cylinder read 38cm HG vacuum

#4 cylinder read 35cm HG vacuum.

I used to have a problem with the #1 misfining like crazy when I would rev the engine and then when I let off the gas it would drop about half the sparks. When I cranked it before the noise appeared I was not dropping any sparks.

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these pics are very large so I will just post links.

the piece of metal on the pan.

http://x3e.xanga.com/4f1a3b427703065512431/w43958536.jpg

close up #1:

http://xed.xanga.com/285a57427663365512395/w43958512.jpg

close up #2

http://x59.xanga.com/905a25765113365512324/w43958458.jpg

 

I am making a wild guess but I don't think that was supposed to be sitting in the bottom of the oil pan.

Looks like a piston oiler to me. I'll get under the block and take some more pictures. It possibly looks broken off on the side furthest from the large hole.

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hmm...the coloring on my crank and connecting rods does not look oem to me...

m43964468.jpg

full size: http://x72.xanga.com/4b7a557b6513265521474/w43964468.jpg

 

balacning...don't know if that is OE either...this shot is the rear side of the crank.

m43964438.jpg

full size: http://xc2.xanga.com/f31a35450763065521431/w43964438.jpg

 

front side of crank:

m43964410.jpg[/url]

full size: http://x56.xanga.com/719a52400533365521386/w43964410.jpg

 

a further away shot.

m43964373.jpg

full size: http://x8f.xanga.com/3aca344103c3065521332/w43964373.jpg

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