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rebuilt motor


riverz

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Well I got my motor rebuilt at a school friend there teaches auto mech. any way all it cost me was parts. Now after five hundred easy miles it is makingh a rod knocking sound very loudly. I pulled off the valve cover and every thing is good so out comes the brand new motor to be rebuilt again. So that is the end of the show season for me. I am very angry at this point. Should never have pulled the motor in the first place.

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Schools that teach auto mechanics isn't the same as Hi-po engine building. When you use non stock parts it can get out of depth for the parking lot puddle folks. But anyway even a stock rebuild needs to be spot on. Did they turn the crank?, if so was it done right?, what bearing clearance?, were the rods resized?, if not then what did they mike at?

 

Experience will tell you that some machine shops might have a crank grinder and a rod resizer, but the operator is where it's at. Every machinist will tell you that every machine has it's quirks and you have to know them and be in tune with it in order to get it right, which means straight, indexed properly and round! Check Braap's thread on the P90a head!!!! Same with rods, have to have proper crush to work, never IMO use a used rod without having it sized properly first. The factory doesn't so why should you? In most cases use new bolts. ARP's should be changed after 5 torqueings IMO. CARR bolts are stronger than the rod and no replacement is supposedly necessary.

 

Cleanliness has in alot of instances killed otherwise perfectly good engines IMO. I've seen the results of dirt in motors for one reason or another kill a well built motor. One of my pet peeves is watching guys do low buck rebuilds and ridge ream and hone the cylinders without removing the galley plugs or the cam bearings!!! Wrong, Wrong and Wrong. Ridge reaming is for dummies who don't know better, cause if it has a ridge you can feel, it has too much bore taper to seat new rings properly.

 

Bottom line is you'd better use somebody else next time cause if he didn't get it right the first time, chances are he won't get it right the second time either IMO.

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it was just a stock rebuild on a L6. They will be buying new parts and paying for the crank to be turned. I will put it back together my self. Should have done it the first time. Did my friend a favor by giving him the motor. Will not make that mistake again.

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Well got the engine opened up the damage is one spun bearing, a rod and the crank. I hope the crank can still be turned. It was in new condition. The reason it spun is the rod bolts where not torqued at all. When I opened the motor the nut was backed half way. So that is where I am at.

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My feelings concur with dr_hunt! I'm betting you had an odd feeling when you let them do your engine! As an aircraft mechanic, you are probably telling yourself......man I knew I shouldn't have done that. Personally, I'd start from square one and have everything checked out.....never know what an un-educated high school mechanic student may or may not have done.

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  • 2 weeks later...

well I need help with a new rod all the other ones are in good shape if any of you guys have one I could buy that would be great. One rod form nissan is 90.99 and arizona z car only sells sets at 250. Any help would be apercated.

 

thanx Jason

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Jason, are you actually in Germany? Just curious.

 

Also, try posting on the L6 (6 cyl ) board on this site and asking the guys if they have one to spare. It's not like the rods are uncommon--they're very common and there are more than a few people who have junk motors. I would think that someone on this site has a spare rod they could send you for cheap!

 

Davy

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