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1978 280Z I'm looking at


Guest Sharkonwheels

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Guest Sharkonwheels

New member...had a '77 280Z A/T from 1989-1991 until it was stolen.

Bone stock, but fun as hell. I remember getting into it, was like putting on a big body glove. Ahhh....I loved that car...

 

anyways, I'm Zshopping again....want something to enjoy for a year or 2, then let my oldest drive it when he turns 16/17/whatever the legal drive-alone age is...

 

I'm looking at a 1978 280Z, stock, Auto, with air (non-working at present), and moonroof. Body looks damn good....say...how do you post attachments?

 

I can take it at $2000.

Worth it?

 

 

Tony

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Tony, if this were in California, I'd say keep your money due to the visible rust (bad for CA, but you're in FL so who knows?) that I see and the fact it is an auto. The car looks tired, BUT, none of this matters if:

 

1) Z's are fairly rare in your neck of the woods

2) The car runs decently

3) The AT doesn't bother you in the least

4) This is the best one you have found so far after searching

5) Getting the car smogged is not an issue in your state/county

 

Then I'd say go for it! Good luck.

 

Davy

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Guest Sharkonwheels
Tony' date=' if this were in California, I'd say keep your money due to the visible rust (bad for CA, but you're in FL so who knows?) that I see and the fact it is an auto. The car looks tired, BUT, none of this matters if:

 

1) Z's are fairly rare in your neck of the woods

2) The car runs decently

3) The AT doesn't bother you in the least

4) This is the best one you have found so far after searching

5) Getting the car smogged is not an issue in your state/county

Davy[/quote']

 

Bottom looks that bad, huh? Answers:

1) Rarity - yeah, kinda. At least, non-cancerous

2) Won't know until I drive 600-some-odd-miles

3) AT - I don;t want it, but it'll be easier for the 16yo

4) by FAR best car/price. Most I see are $800 basket case ground-uppers

5) no smogging here in FL for a few years now.

 

Now, it looks great outside, but underneath is where I worried.

also, on the picture of the right-rear A-Arm, looks like a square piece is riveted in or something?!?

 

I looked at pics, the guy was honest, and put it on a lift and took those pics. As I said, body looked great, interior looked OK seats have covers though. Under hood looked OK.

 

I got him down to $1700, but I gotta spend $250-300 in gas, $85 for a tow dolly, food, hotel, etc... so cost is likely, in the end, to be around $2000-2100

 

 

So you think I should skip it? I need an honest opinion. I made a HUGE mistake on a Porsche 914 about 9-10 years ago. Cost me $3k and change.

Bought it after falling in love, viewed it at dusk (what a mistake).

 

Man...what a nightmare. Engine sucked. Ran fine for 10 minutes, then blecccch! Dude had welded a metal bar across the doorsill to the tranny hump to hold the seat, because there was a HUGE rust hole underneath.

 

Man...nodding my head in disbelief that I actually bought that stupid car for $3500. The only thing that bailed me out, was I bought a faded-paint 92 Miata for $7000 (1997) and gave me $1500 on trade for the 914, which was totalled 2 months after purchase. Insurance gave me $9700, so I came out OK.

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Keep looking, check craigslist, local ads, etc.

 

I feel that Z is overpriced as I have seen others in Florida score them way cheaper for a lot less.

 

And 1300 miles?? That might get you into Texas where the Zs might be in better shape rust wise.

 

Oh, and one of the best things my parents did was teach me how to drive stick first (and my sister as well). It's much easier to go from a manual to an auto the vice versa.

 

Mario

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Guest Sharkonwheels
Keep looking' date=' check craigslist, local ads, etc.

 

I feel that Z is overpriced as I have seen others in Florida score them way cheaper for a lot less.

 

And 1300 miles?? That might get you into Texas where the Zs might be in better shape rust wise.

 

Oh, and one of the best things my parents did was teach me how to drive stick first (and my sister as well). It's much easier to go from a manual to an auto the vice versa.

 

Mario[/quote']

 

Well,,,that's 2 of you already, so I think I'll pass.

Mario, that was 1300 round-trip, just in case. I think 600-or-so miles from Ft. Laud still gets you into Texas, which is, for the most part, a dry, arrid climate, right?

 

I've been scouring craigs (where I foudn the 240Z in W Palm beach) classic trader, and cars.com (where I found the 280 in SC), but I'll keep scouring...

 

Oh, and BTW, I'll probably be hitting you up for info - that MegaSquirt has been gnawing at my ankles for a few months. Interesting idea....good improvements?

 

T

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Lemme know' date=' folks - I gotta give him an answer by tomorrow (Wednesday)

 

[/quote']

 

 

Tony, get some more opinions before thinking, "NO." The rust at the bottom of the panel where it meets the rocker is what has me concerned. It may be nothing at all.

 

Davy

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Guest Sharkonwheels

I have access to my wife's father, and brother, who have been in the auto body business for years! Her brother is almost done with a ground-up, frame-off resto off a 1978 Toyo FJ-40 land cruiser. No bondo, no fiberglass - either metal welded in, or replacement panels. Her father is a body man by trade, and her brother is a car painter by trade (recently, became an adjuster for Progressive)

 

I was frowning on all the rust under the engine bay.

 

Say, anyone here near Ft. Mill,SC I can pay some bux to to take a peak at the car for me?

 

Oh, and not buy it out from under me :twisted:

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Guest Sharkonwheels

Davy - do me a favor - I added a new pic, and circled something in yellow.

Looks like a Hack repair?

 

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sharkonwheels/detail?.dir=722ere2&.dnm=3973re2.jpg&.src=ph

 

Is that what it is? Looks like a hack repair, on some support that goes across the back of both rear A-Arms.

Looks like a piece of sheetmetal or similar, tacker/riveted/spotwelded to hold the A-Arm "in"?

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That's stock.

 

Haha! Forrest, that's funny :D

 

Uh, Sharko, you should not see a 'plate' there in that place. I have no idea what that is or why it is there. You should see a large bolt, just like the other side...

 

Davy

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Forrest is correct. That is a stock piece on the 78. I think it is supposed to shield the bushing from exhaust heat. Someone may have moved it to the other side. Although I have seen them on that side a few times as well on other cars. Maybe it is for something else, but definitely stock...

 

Sam

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Forrest is correct. That is a stock piece on the 78. I think it is supposed to shield the bushing from exhaust heat. Someone may have moved it to the other side. Although I have seen them on that side a few times as well on other cars. Maybe it is for something else' date=' but definitely stock...

 

Sam[/quote']

 

AAaaah, learned something new. OK, that makes more sense---I thought about the exhaust possibility but dismissed it at first since it was on the right side (exhaust peels around the left side bolt), but now I'm clear. Hey, at least I'm not losing my mind. Amazing, but I've not heard of too many failures with the exhaust heat from those bolts, I'm amazed that they decided to do something about it after 4 years of Z cars before the 280Z.

 

Davy

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Guest Sharkonwheels

Well, you know, too many people are telling me to keep looking, so I think that's what I will do. Thanks for the advice, folks.

 

Is it OK to do this again? Post finds and pics and get opinions?

 

 

T

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Well' date=' you know, too many people are telling me to keep looking, so I think that's what I will do. Thanks for the advice, folks.

 

Is it OK to do this again? Post finds and pics and get opinions?

 

 

T[/quote']

Non Tech Board is the place to do it.

I agree with "keep looking"

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