slownrusty Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 Hi Gang - Got around to drilling and tapping my intake and mounted my 67mm BMW TB (off a 1986 735i BMW) this morning. I messed around with linkage arms and the springs and have some ideas on how to connect things up but wanted to get some further suggestions. Basically I want to connect from A --> B, I'm OK with cutting and welding arms or whatever..just need something that is simple and will ensure WOT when the gas pedal is to the floor. Part of the problem is the angle of the face of the new intake but I am sure I can overcome this. I do not want to convert to a cable style linkage. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Best regards - Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 What about...extend rod at point "B" approx 3" or so and then rotate bracket at point "B" 180 degrees clockwise. That way the rod end at point "B" would be over bracket at point "A"? Visualize from pic 2 point of view. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 If it's a must that the point "B" bracket stay on the left. Extend the rod further and flip the bracket at point "B" over (facing the other direction). Maybe rotate bracket "B" CCW 30 degrees. There will still be a slight angle issue but the swivel linkage should be able to handle that. Your need is to get them over top of each other as close as possible. Gotta take off for Oklahoma in minute but I'll check back in the morning. Want to get some more info. Talk to you then! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUSHER Posted September 3, 2006 Share Posted September 3, 2006 Is rotating the throttle body an option? If you could, seems 90 degrees clockwise so that point A is on the top, then play/cut/weld/rotate A until it works? Might have to extend B a bit so the linkage would clear? Vertical throttlebody might be against fluid dynamic laws or something though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 4, 2006 Author Share Posted September 4, 2006 Is rotating the throttle body an option? If you could, seems 90 degrees clockwise so that point A is on the top, then play/cut/weld/rotate A until it works? Might have to extend B a bit so the linkage would clear? Vertical throttlebody might be against fluid dynamic laws or something though. Sorry Pusher - rotating the TB is not an option as the arm would catch on the corner of the manifold and also the TB is not symetrical for the bolt holes to line up...good thought though. I did not think of that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 4, 2006 Author Share Posted September 4, 2006 If it's a must that the point "B" bracket stay on the left. Extend the rod further and flip the bracket at point "B" over (facing the other direction). Maybe rotate bracket "B" CCW 30 degrees. There will still be a slight angle issue but the swivel linkage should be able to handle that. Your need is to get them over top of each other as close as possible. Gotta take off for Oklahoma in minute but I'll check back in the morning. Want to get some more info. Talk to you then! You lost me bro! Bracket B can be moved any direction I need 360degrees around that shaft, I can even cut and reweld it based on the best option, so that point is fully adjustable and can be modified accordingly. Point A pretty muich has to to stay in the orientation it is. But I could flip the pivot ball from the inside to the out by cutting it off and re-welding it - if that helps? What do you think? Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 I'd think about cutting B and making it a right angle arm with the ball toward the TB, and then cutting/rewelding A so that it is not on the inside but the outside of its' arm from the TB. Playing a little bit with the length of the arm on B and the length of the shaft between ball ends should eliminate any clearance problems and allow full throttle movement. JMHO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 4, 2006 Author Share Posted September 4, 2006 I'd think about cutting B and making it a right angle arm with the ball toward the TB' date=' and then cutting/rewelding A so that it is not on the inside but the outside of its' arm from the TB. Playing a little bit with the length of the arm on B and the length of the shaft between ball ends should eliminate any clearance problems and allow full throttle movement. JMHO...[/quote'] LOL...that was exactly what I was thinking...! We're on the same wavelength. !!! Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 I'd think about cutting B and making it a right angle arm with the ball toward the TB' date=' and then cutting/rewelding A so that it is not on the inside but the outside of its' arm from the TB. Playing a little bit with the length of the arm on B and the length of the shaft between ball ends should eliminate any clearance problems and allow full throttle movement. JMHO...[/quote'] Thats what I was trying to say!! The shaft at "B" needs to be longer! Then rotate the bracket at "B" location to the desired angle. I think I used too many words perhaps! I'll see if I can pull up an illustration. I think that is the ticket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 Consider even bending, to open the angle, of the TB bracket if it comes close to fouling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 I broke out some crayons. Does this help? Is this possible? As shown, at full throttle (WFO), there is 90 degrees of rotation from closed. Of course the closed pos of a TB is what 5 to 8 degrees open? So true WFO wont be quite as far as the illustration shows. Which will give you a touch more clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 4, 2006 Author Share Posted September 4, 2006 Twoeightnine - You are awesome bro! That is exactly what I had in mind....thanks for taking the time to do those illustrations! I greatly appreciate it....I am confident that set-up will work! I will let you know how it turns out...more work ahead! Many thanks again! Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twoeightnine Posted September 4, 2006 Share Posted September 4, 2006 Yes sir. I just wish I was having as much fun as you are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
proxlamus© Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 um.. how about throttle cable linkage?? and shave off the stock TB sticks(arms) lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 LOL...that was exactly what I was thinking...! We're on the same wavelength. !!! Great minds... Thats what I was trying to say!! If you lived around my wife, you'd understand the practice I've had in boiling things/concepts down to their simplest/fewest word form...MANY years of practice - no native intelligence involved.... Should be sweet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopstic Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 take the throttle body bracket and straighten it flat in a vise then there should be a straight line to connect with linkage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Get better linkage at http://www.piercemanifolds.com/linkage.htm. They have adjustable links in various lengths. I'm using these in place of the stock factory pieces. They are made by JPS and are superior in quality. The ball ends are 8mm so you can use the stock balls on the TB and shaft. Alternately, you could reomve the stock balls, drill out the holes and use the ball ends supplied with the links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 Chopstick - Good suggestion thanks... EZZZZ - Awesome link....I am going to investigate further..they have some great options on there from my quick perusal. Regards - Yasin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2126 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Interesting problem!!! When working with lever arm linkages, be aware that depending upon what angles the lever arms are positioned (relative to mid travel), they will play a big part in the responce ratio you will obtain at the gas pedal. Another option may be to use a flexible type shaft to join the two linkages. It would require more modifications but at least it would solve the angle and ratio issues. Just some food for thought! Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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