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JCI LS1 mounts need help.


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Guys,

I test fit the left engine mount and it doens't look good. #1 the manual doesn't mention anything about grinding my old left engine mount down for the new engine mount to cover it. Without grinding the new engine mount will not completely cover the old mount. #2 the damn hole in the new left engine mount is not lining up with the old mount. ( I will take a picture tomorrow, This is really bad). Also I have to hit the ♥♥♥♥ out of the old mount just to let the new mount sits on top of the old mount and be able to adjust the rear mount to fit the back of the tension rod mount. #3 the bottom hole of the tension rod mount is right on the corner so how are you suppose to mount the nut and bolt for that? The right mount looks like it suppose to go smooth but so far the left one is a PITA. Anyone got any comment on that? I haven't put the motor in yet but so far it a ****in PITA already. I am probably be better off redesign the left mount. Thanks for any input from the guys who had done this before.

Vinh

PS. I know JCI probably put a lot of time into designing this kit but the left mount to me could be done better and simpler.

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When you say left Im assuming you mean the pass side? The driverside re-uses the stock mount. The only grinding I had to do was on the driverside to clear the sanderson shorty header. Mine just bolted right up though.

 

Here is a pic I just took to make sure you got everything right. It took me a bit to figure it all out when I first bolted it up......

the pass side mount...

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the driverside mount...

126-2609_IMG.jpg

 

chassis mounts.....

126-2610_IMG.jpg

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Lason, Thanks for the picture. It helps a lot but here are my problems:

#1. I need to cut a boss off on the passenger side in order to install the passenger side mount. This doesn't mention in the manual but this is a no brainer to figure out.

#2. The driver side mount is a complete crap. The hole in the new mount won't line up with the old mount. The new mount won't slide onto the old mount. I have to grind both the upper and lower lips of the old mount in order for the new mount to slide on.

 

#3. After I slide the P mount on it sticks straight out the back and the back piece just hanging in the air. In order for me to bend the back of the mount onto the tension rod mounting cup I have to hammer the old mount on both top and bottom to make it skinnier. So that I can wiggle the back of the new mount toward the tension rod mounting cup. Once I did that the new mount look crooked compare to the left frame rail. I got some pictures to show what I am talking about.

 

#4 the manual said using the old bolts to hold the crossmember in place. The bolts are about 1" and there is no way you can use the stock bolts. You have to use longer bolts to hold up the crossmember.

 

I have to go now but I will put up some pictures on my web site and I will put the link here later. Here it is

http://www.cardomain.com/my/edit_page?page_id=2079260

Vinh

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PopNwood,

I just put in a perfect condition crossmember from my other 280Z. As far as I know this car was never got into an accident and everything looks straight.

 

Lason,

Can you show me some more picture of the driver side mount from the side view. I notice your new mount looks parrallel to the frame rail from the front view. On my web site you can see the new mount doesn't look parallel to the frame at all. Doesn't matter which angle you look at it, either front or the side.

 

Is it suppose to look like that? There's got to be something wrong. Do you see how far off the hole off from center on the new mount? Did he send me the one for a 240Z maybe?

Vinh

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Lason' date='

Can you show me some more picture of the driver side mount from the side view. I notice your new mount looks parrallel to the frame rail from the front view. On my web site you can see the new mount doesn't look parallel to the frame at all. Doesn't matter which angle you look at it, either front or the side.

 

Is it suppose to look like that? There's got to be something wrong. Do you see how far off the hole off from center on the new mount? Did he send me the one for a 240Z maybe?

Vinh[/quote']

 

The driverside chassis mount was a PITA to put in and took a lot of banginf with a 5lb sledge to get it to fit decent and it still doesnt sit perfectly I dont think.I thought you were talking about the stock LS1 mount but now I realize your talking about the chassis mount. I looked an I realized I forgot about where I also had to grind off a boss to get the pass side mount on so your right there. Here are some more pics I just took and I will circle the boss I had to grind off.

 

126-2613_IMG.jpg

 

And here are some of the chassis mount.

126-2610_IMG.jpg

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126-2621_IMG.jpg

126-2622_IMG.jpg

126-2620_IMG.jpg

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It looks correct in that second pic. Just get you a 5lb sledge and smack the piss out of it at on the TC rod side till you can get a bolt in the original motor mount hole. The holes on my original motor mount were oval shaped from front to back because I was going to use a JTR kit so that helped me a lot. I will agree that the driverside mount is not exaclty on par as far as measurments are concerned. Its a VERY tight fit to say the least. BTW, I dont think my JCI mount sat perfectly down on the original mount either. I just got it where I could get the bolt in and tourqed it down. And with the two bolts you are supposed to use on the TC mount, FORGET THAT! I was able to get one in and that is all that is holding that side. If I have issues later on then Ill either weld that side or run motor plates.

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LOL call me a post whore but I went out there and stared at my mounts trying to figure out what is so different and laughed because I feel like an idiot for not remembering. I was in your same shoes till I figured out the JCI mount slides INSIDE the original mount and then the JCI plate that goes in between the frame and k-member goes OVER the original mount so together they sandwich the original mount. Now go mount it and get your sledge out because you will need it to get the JCI mount to fit nice INSIDE the Datsun mount. Here are some bad pics to hopefully show you what I mean.

126-2626_IMG.jpg

126-2625_IMG.jpg

126-2624_IMG.jpg

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If/when I do an LS1 Z, I definitely will make my own mounts or use a motor plate. I just don't like the looks of the JCI kit. Besides, they should NOT be that hard to install, especially considering how much they cost. This reminds me of their SBC install kits, overpriced and S**t for quality. I hope I don't offend you guys, and I wish you the best of luck on getting your LS1 Z's running.

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The JCI stuff is nice, dont get me wrong. For a mild LSX motor, maybe being a daily driver then I would reccomend the JCI stuf hands down. That is how my project started. Now Im more geared towards a track monster and I kinda wish i went with motor plates instead but I dont regret it one bit.

 

The JCI stuff isnt really hard to install but like I said last night, the directions leave a lot to be desired. Especially during the step we have been talking about. It is a VERY tight fit in the Datsun mount (hence the 5lb sledge hammer) but that may be a good thing. Too loose of a fit and it would move around a bit so given my choices Ill take it the way it is.

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FWIW - my mounts are still solid after about 25,000 miles of driving - including a few stints at Texas Motorplex, a "driver's ed" day at Texas Motor Speedway and many, many demo rides. Nothing with the drive-train appears to have shifted. For that matter - the only problems I've had with the entire install have been electrical. I had my two radiator fan relays die within a month of each other - two years ago, and a lead to the starter burned through because of it's proximity to the passenger side exhaust.

I've had pictures of the JCI mounts up in my album for about a year now. They were developed off my '77 280Z which means that someone else's car could be a bit different due to OEM manufacturing tolerances. I do know, however, that my car has never been involved in an accident so the dimensions should be close.

Lason - I have to laugh when the term "mild LSX motor" is used in reference to an engine that's putting out 390 flywheel HP & about 345 lb-ft of torque.

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Man I feel really stupid now. I should have figure it out since the hole won't line up. If I slide it under the stock mount then the hole would have lined up. I've made my mount for the C5 style engine mounts and now I am using the JCI kits, if I have to do over again I would go with the C5 engine mounts style since I have all the measurements. One thing IMO is that the driver side JCI mount should be redesign to be a little more compact and easy to install. I have not drill the holes on the TC cup yet but I know it will be a bear to do that. Thanks again Lason.

Vinh

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Lason - I have to laugh when the term "mild LSX motor" is used in reference to an engine that's putting out 390 flywheel HP & about 345 lb-ft of torque.

 

Phantom, what I meant was milder applications where rubber mounts are wanted like daily driver applications. That is how my project started but now Im contemplating welding the mounts up so they are solid and if I would have decided to do that from the start then motor plates would have been a far better decision due to their cost, ease of installation (sorta) and ample header clearance.

 

I have said more than once, the JCI mounts themselves are good. Could be a lot better IMO but the instructions suck when it comes to good pics of how it all is supposed to go together. If I were to redesign it I would have gone with two mounts like the passenger side and a relocation bracket for the alternator. As it sits I have to buy two sets of motor mounts if I wanna switch over to poly's. 1 set of LS1 and one set of older SBC unless I can find someone selling them individually.

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