v80z Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 I adjust with the outer hex and lock into place with the inner allen bolt. Is this correct? What is the trick to keeping them in position. I am not sure how hard to turn the allen bolt. I just snug it after setting the lash. Solid cam. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeshoe Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 V80z, You have to adjust the inner set screw so that the lash is slightly loose with the outer nut being finger tight, then you tighten the outer nut (and the set screw equally simultaneously) to set the lash and lock it. You cannot just tighten the set screw once the lash is right, it will not stay set. It takes a few rockers to get the feel for it, but once you do it this way, you won't have anymore issues. Use a go/ no-go method with the feeler gauge to ensure you have the correct lash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
280zwitha383 Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 I HAVE just tightened the crap out of them which will work after a few redoings but above is the correct way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeeboost Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Agreed - I had the same problem you were having until I figured out the right way to do it (jakeshoe's method). It's been almost a year now and they're still holding... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbk240z Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 Agreed^^^! Had them on a SBC 327 once, same problem, same solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted September 5, 2006 Author Share Posted September 5, 2006 Well I had it all wrong then. Lemme see if I understand this. feeler gage between roller and valve stem. With both the outter nut loose and the inner allen screw loose tighten the inner allen screw until lash is loosely set. Then turn both simultaneously in the same direction to lock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcelectronics Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 YES:coollook: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnjdragracing Posted September 5, 2006 Share Posted September 5, 2006 You can also run a stud girdle, this makes all of the rockers a whole. They are not to expensive, you can find them on ebay from dirt track thunder. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted September 7, 2006 Author Share Posted September 7, 2006 I finally got one horse moving and could turn my attention to the z. Here is what I found. Only one. On the loose rocker Well just replace it and adjust all as per directions given or do I need to look at something else. Valve stem and pushrod cup on rocker look OK some dings in the rocker outside the cup. Thanks as Always. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 How many rpm are you turning that thing Joe? Check for: *Pushrod rubbing the head *Rocker arm binding, sometimes the slot isn't long enough and it runs out of travel on the stud *Retainer to valve guide clearance, need at least 50 *Coil bind on the spring, need about 50 from bind to max lift *Valve to piston clearance, need about 100 *Valve spring pressure, whatever manufacturer reccomends A compression test or leakdown on that cyl might be a good idea, that would show if the valve is bent. Sometimes a straightedge across the tips will show a bent one if it's bad. You may have a broke/weak valve spring that let the valve hit the piston. Check it out carefully, that could get real ugly. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted September 8, 2006 Share Posted September 8, 2006 I had that happen once. The loose rocker caused the pushrod to come out of the cup, and as soon as pressure came down again, bent the pushrod. Replace the one and use the above described method to lock them down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted September 8, 2006 Author Share Posted September 8, 2006 John Got the limiter set on 6300 right now. I have found some one local that hasa racig background that builds motor and has a salvage yard full of stuff. We have talked about building another motor for the car. 1st gen sbc based. Fast and hi revver. Talked alot about tall rods and short pistons. Squaring the block. making the bottom end bullet proof. Oiling windage valve train stability. I am looking forward to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted September 9, 2006 Share Posted September 9, 2006 Cool deal Joe. In my somewhat long winded reply above, I forgot this thread started out about the rockers nuts backing off. Mike is probably right, the rocker backed off and the pushrod jumped out of the rocker or lifter cup. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v80z Posted September 11, 2006 Author Share Posted September 11, 2006 Thanks John Back together. Bought me a $1.77 pushrod and a $7.67 intake gasket set. Readjusted all valves. Honked Down on each allen/set screw. Then took her out. Of course Valve covers are puking oil again, Man I sound like Forrest. So we will need to seal that up as I am due to go to a purist z thrash this weekend at the local autox track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted September 12, 2006 Share Posted September 12, 2006 Try the Fel Pro 1604, it's the best I've found. Thick cork/rubber with steel center. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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